·.·) UMM I 1 l\'111 I oil UIIII U! 1 411 \ol ,U MOTIF dan CORAK

JAWA TIMUR

K.ERJASA.MA; LEMBAGA KEBUDA Y AAN UNIVERSITAS MUHAMMADIYAH MALANO

DBNGAN DEKRANASDA PROVINSI JA WA TIMUR

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Pcnerbit UMM Press ISBN 978-979-796-306-4

KHASANAH MOTIF DAN CORAK BATIK JAWA TIMUR

Tim Pcnulis :

Andi Syaifol Amal Sugiarti

Hori Su.naryo Sri Hartiningsih Agus Purwadi

Nanang Mardimharjo Titik Ambarwali

Joko susilo Hudaniah

Sofyan Arif R. Pulung Sudibyo

Rina Wahyu Setyaningsih l-lusamah

Tim Pcnerjemah :

Thalil Manon /\ndini Riski Lcstiono Nina lnuyati

Nu1akh.lini Scptiany

fl"f~ J Dllflur Isl

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Batik Bojonugoro .......................................................................................................................................................................................... lh Bntik 801,dowoso .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 34 Bmlk Grcs ik ................. - ... - .......................... --············-· .. ·---............ -···-······· .. ·····-···· .............................................................. 31/ llntik Jombcr ................................................................................................................................................................................................... .'I I Bntik Jombang ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 01, Batik Kcdiri ............................................................................................................. - ..•.•....•••.. _ .................................................................... 70 Btttik Lnmongnn ............................................................................................................................................................................................. 811 Bntik Lumnj;mg ............................................................................................... _ ..... --··············-········ .......................................................... 114 Bntlk Mndiun ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 'll Butik Mtogctnn ................................................................................................................................................................................................. ')M Batik Malnng ............................................................................................................. -·············-·······-··· ..................................................... I II' Bntik Mojokeno .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 111 Bniik Madum .......................................................................................................................................... ......................................................... 1 ir, Bntik Bangkulnn ................................................................................................................................... - ........................................................ 127 Bmik Snmpnng ........................................................................................................... ..................................................................................... I 12 Batik Pamekasnn .................................................................................................................................. - ........................................................ 11, 13ntik Sumunep ............................................................................... - ......................... ..................................................................................... 1411 Bulik Sumboyn ........................................................................................................... ................................................................................... .. 14•1 13ntlk Trcnggulck ....................................................................................................................................................... -·····-············ ............. .. 14N Onlik Tub11n ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 1,1 Batik Tulungnl!ung ....................................................................................................................................................................................... - 151, Batik N1µmjuk ........................................................................................................................................................... - ................................... 1511 Bulik Ngnwi ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... It, I Butik Pucitun ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 1 kS Batik Pnsu:nmn ........................................................................................................................................................... - ................................. 1 'II Bulik Probol onggo ...•••..•• _ .................................. _ ......................................................................................................................................... 111 Bmlk ronorogo .............................................................. ........................... .............................................................................. _ ................ _ ... .20 Bntik Situbondo ......................... - .................................................................................................................................................................. .201

D:ulk Sidoarjo ................. - ....... _ .......................... - ...................................................................................................................................... .2 t

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MOTIF dan CORAK BATIK JAWA TIMUR

Tim Penerjemah:

Thathit Manon Andini

Riski Lestiono

Nina Inayati

Nurakhfini Septiany

Penerbit UMM Press ISBN 978-979-796-306-4

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BATIK BANYUWANGI

Banyuwangi adalah kabupaten terluas di Jawa

Timur. Kabupaten ini terletak di ujung paling timur Pulau Jawa, berbatasan dengan Kabupaten Situbondo di utara, Selat Bali di timur, Samudra Hindia di selatan serta Kabupaten Jember dan Kabupaten Bondowoso di barat. Pelabuhan Ketapang menghubungkan Pulau Jawa dengan Pelabuhan Gilimanuk Bali. Kabupaten Banyuwangi merupakan salah satu wilayah produsen batik yang jarang ditengok orang. Padahal, kekhasan dari batik Banyuwangi dengan ciri gajah ulingnya

tak dapat dikesampingkan. Banyak motif asli batik khas Bumi Blambangan sebutan dari Banyuwangi. Namun hingga sekarang baru ada 12 jenis motif batik asli Banyuwangi yang diakui secara nasional. Jenis-jenis batik Banyuwangi itu antara lain : (1) Gajah Uling, (2) Kangkung Setingkes, (3) Alas Kobong, (4) Paras Gempal, (5) Kopi Pecah, (6) Gedekan, (7) Ukel, (8) Moto Pitik, (9) Sembruk Cacing, (10) Blarak Semplah, (11) Gringsing, dan (12) Sekar Jagad. Semua nama motif dari batik Bumi Blambangan ini ternyata banyak dipengaruhi oleh kondisi alam dan merupakan cerminan kekayaan alam yang ada di Banyuwangi. Dari semua nama motif dari batik asli Banyuwangi ini yang menjadi khasnya atau ikonnya adalah Motif Batik Gajah Uling.Seperti yang dituturkan oleh Ibu Umi Sukasih pemilik Batik Tulis Seblang yang beralamat di Mojopanggung, tapi dilahirkan di Temenggungan yang merupakan pusat pengrajin batik tulis di Banyuwangi. Batik Banyuwangi memiliki nilai-nilai moral yang tersirat yang merupakan perwujudan kearifan local (local wisdom) masyarakat Banyuwangi dan perlu disampaikan sebagai wawasan kepada masyarakat.

BATIK OF BANYUWANGI Banyuwangi is the largest regency in East Java. This regency is located in the eastern part of East Java, the north border is Situbondo regency, the east border is Selat Bali, the south border is Samudra Hindia, the west border is Jember regency and Bondowoso Regency. Java and Bali Island are linked by Ketapang harbour. Banyuwangi regency is one of the producers of Batik that is not so familiar in the society. Meanwhile, Banyuwangi has the unique motive that is called Gajah Uling motive. There are so many motives of Blambangan land - the other a name of Banyuwangi Regency, but up to now only 12 natural motives that are nantionally accepted. Those kinds of motives are: (1) Gajah Uling, (2) Kangkung Setingkes, (3) Alas Kobong, (4) Paras Gempal, (5) Kopi Pecah, (6) Gedekan, (7) Ukel, (8) Moto Pitik, (9) Sembruk Cacing, (10) Blarak Semplah, (11) Gringsing, and (12) Sekar Jagad. All of the names of these motives are greatly influenced by the natural condition that can be said as the mirror of the prosperity of Banyuwangi regency. Among those motives, Gadjah Oling motive is the iconic motive. As it was said by Ibu Umi Sukasih, the owner of Batik Seblang boutique located in Mojopanggung, these motives are from Temenggungan, the center of Batik craft. Banyuwangi Batik implicitely has moral value as the manivestian of local wisdom of Banyuwangi and it is necessary for the people to be informed as the knowledge.

Motif : Gajah Uling Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Semi alam Secara umum, motif gajah oling melambangkan keperkasaan orang Blambangan. Ada yang menyebut Gajah Uling adalah senjata simbol keperkasaan raja-raja Blambangan. Bisa pula bermakna, Eling kepada Yang Maha Besar (disimbolkan dengan kata Gajah).

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Motive : Gajah Uling

Type : Batik Tulis

Cloth : Primissima

Coloring : Semi Natural

In general, ‘Gajah Uling’ motive symbolizes how powerful Blambangan society is. The people say that it also

symbolizes how powerful the Blambangan King is. The others said that it means remembering God (that is

symbolized by the picture of Elephant).

Motives : Kangkung Setingkes Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Natural

This vegetable motive symbolizes the family harmony. The basic white color gives the meaning of the peace

and forgiveness character.

Motive : Paras Gempal

Type : Batik Tulis

Cloth : Primissima

Coloring : Semi Natural

Motif : Kangkung Setingkes Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Alam Motif sayuran ini menggambarkan adanya keharmonisan dalam hidup bersama dalam satu ikatan kekeluargaan. Warna dasar putih memberikan arti adanya ketenteraman dan sifat pemaaf.

Motif : Paras Gempal Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Semi Alam Paras (batu, bebatuan), gempal (runtuh). Motif ini menggambarkan bergesernya bebatuan di permukaan tanah, di satu sisi mereposisi struktur permukaan tanah, di sisi lain memberikan kesuburan tanah untuk lahan perkebunan/pertanian. Warna biru tua melambangkan ketenangan.

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Paras means stone or rocky, gempal means breaking down. This motive describes the shift of the earth surface.

It is the reposition of the structure of earth surface. Besides, it also describes the fertility of plantation.

Meanwhile, the blue color symbolizes the peacefulness.

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Motive : Gajah Oling Klasik

Type : Batik Tulis

Cloth : Katun

Coloring : Natural

Feeling of religious chanting (dzikir) to God hopefully will give purity, peacefulness, and the braveness to

defense the right and generous character to the others. All of the characteristics are symbolized with the white

background color.

Motive : Kangkung Setingkes Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Kangkung Setingkes motive clearly shows the harmony, purity, and forgiveness that are symbolized with the basic white color. By the combining the edge of Gajah Uling (GU) motive, it means that there is harmony coloured by religious chanting to Almighty God.

Motif : Gajah Uling Klasik Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Katun 100% Pewarnaan : Alam Rasa Eling (dzikr) kepada Yang Maha Besar, diharapkan melahirkan kesucian, ketenteraman, dan keberanian yang tulus dalam membela kebenaran, serta welas asih kepada sesama. Sifat-sifat ini dilambangkan dengan dasar warna putih

Motif : Kangkung Stingkes Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia Lebih tegas menonjolkan keharmonisan, kesucian, dan watak pemaaf yang dilambangkan dengan dasar warna putih. Dengan kombinasi pinggiran motif Gajah Uling (GU), berarti adanya keharmonisan yang dibalut rasa Eling kepada Yang Maha Besar.

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Motive : Uter Moto Pitik Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Uter Moto Pitik motive symbolizes the carefulness in earning as small money as possible .The color of strong blue symbolizes peacefulness, softness, faithfulness and doing thing without thinking the reward in taking every fortune from God.

Motive : Moto Pitik Gajah Uling Type : Batik Semi Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Moto Pitik Gajah Uling motive symbolizes the carefulness of earning money based on the bravery (the symbol ized by Gajah Uling), and the result depends on the Almighty God. The color of green symbolizes the hopes of the future life.

Motif : Uter Moto Pitik Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia Motif Uter Moto pitik melambangkan kejelian memungut rejeki yang sekecil apa pun. Warna biru tua melambangkan rasa ketenangan, kelembutan, kesetiaan, dan keikhlasan dalam setiap berkarya memungut rejeki Tuhan.

Motif : Moto Pitik Gajah Uling Jenis : Batik Semi Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia Motif Moto Pitik Gajah Uling melambangkank kejelian dalam memungut rejeki didasarkan pada keberanian (dari lambang GU), dan menggantungkan hasilnya dengan rasa Eling kepada Yang Maha Besar. Warna hijau melambangkan adanya harapan di masa mendatang.

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Motive : Selimpet (gedhekan) Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical and Natural Selimpet (Gedkean) motive illustrates the color of beautiful life (symbolized with flower) must be based on fasten tie one and another as symbolized with weaved bamboo together that is called gedhek.

Motive : Gedhekan Gajah Uling Type : Batik semi Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical

The main characteristics of Gajah Uling motive that is the soul of togetherness in the society as tighten as the plaited bamboo still characterizes Gedhekan Gajah Uling motive . The color of soft brown symbolizes the simplicity and the natural sense.

Motif : Selimpet (Gedhekan) Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia dan Alam Motif Selimpet (Gedhekan) melambangkan rona kehidupan yang indah (sebagaimana lambang bunga) mesti didasarkan pada jalinan yang erat satu sama lain seperti disimbolkan jalinan anyaman bambu yang disebut gedhek.

Motif : Gedhekan Gajah Uling Jenis : Batik Semi Tulis Kain : Primisima Pewarnaan : Kimia Kekhasan makna dari motif Gajah Uling tetap menjiwai dan meliputi terbangunnya jalinan yang rapat-erat dalam hubungan sosial, sebagaimana rapatnya jalinan anyaman bambu yang terdadapat dalam motif Gedhekan Gajah Uling. Warna yang agak keoklat-coklatan ini melambangkan sifat kesederhanaan dan watak yang mem-bumi.

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Motive : Gajah Uling Jayabinangun Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Natural Gajah Uling Jayabinangun motive illustrates that the glory and the invulnerableness will be built from the attitude and behavior of not doing a mistake, bravery, purity, and great forgiveness. All of these characteristics are symbolized by white color.

Motive : Burung Merak Kopi Pecah Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical In Burung Merak Kopi Pecah, breaking coffee seeds combined with peacock bird symbolize the great fortune from God, the peacefulness and prosperity of Blambangan district.

Motif : Gajah Uling Jayabinangun Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Alam Motif Gajah Uling Jayabinangun melambangkan bahwa sebuah kejayaan dan kedigjayaan akan terbangun dengan landasan watak dan sifat tidak hendak berlaku salah, keberanian, kesucian, dan sifat pemaaf yang agung. Ini dilambangkan dengan dasar warna putih.

Motif : Burung Merak Kopi Pecah Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia Dalam motif Burung Merak Kopi Pecah, Kopi pecah dipadukan dengan burung merak, melambangkan adanya kelimpahan kenikmatan dan kenyamanan, serta kemakmuran alam Blambangan.

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Motive : Maspun (Garuda) Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : primissima Coloring : Chemical and Natural By using the symbol of Garuda bird, Maspun (Garuda) motive shows the strong characteristics. The black color symbolizes the power, strength, and self-confidence.

Motive : Lintring (Card) Gajah Uling Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Eventhough Lintring (Kartu) Gajah motive is lintring (card) motive, it does not mean that this motive motivates the people to play card for gambling. By dominantly showing the symbol of Gajah Uling (GU), this motive strongly asks the people to leave gambling, and asks the them to remember (Eling) to Almighty God.

Motif : Maspun (Garuda) Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia dan Alam Dengan simbol garuda, motif Maspun (Garuda) hendak menonjolkan watak keperkasaan. Dan dengan warna dasar hitam, memberi kesan kuat adanya kewibawaan, kekuatan, dan percaya diri.

Motif : Lintring (Kartu) Gajah Uling Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia Meski bermotif lintring (kartu), tidak berarti mengajak orang untuk bermain judi. Dengan mengetengahkan simbol Gajah Uling (GU), motif ini justru mengajak orang meninggalkan judi, dan kembali mengingat (Eling) kepada Yang Maha Besar.

Motif : Manukan Sembruk Cacing Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Naptol, Remasol

Dengan kombinasi manukan dan sembruk cacing, motif Manukan Sembruk Cacing ingin menggambarkan adanya saling ketergantungan dalam kehidupan di alam. Harmoni alam terjadi karena adanya ketergantungan

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Motive : Manukan Sembruk Cacing Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Naptol, Remasol The combination of Manukan and Sembruk cacing motive , Manukan and Sembruk Cacing motive describes the interdependence of life and nature. The harmony of nature happens because there is a dependence one another.

Motive : Blarakan Gajah Uling Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Blarakan Gajah Uling motive combines the special characteristics of Gajah Uling motive and is surrounded by natural elements like coconut leaves (called blarak). This motive results in the strong patterns in showing main motive, which is Gajah Uling motive.

Motif : Blarakan Gajah Uling Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia Motif Blarakan Gajah Uling yang memadukan antara Gajah Uling sebagai kekhasan batik Banyuwangi dengan unsur-unsur alam sekitar berupa serat-serat daun kelapa (blarak), menghasilkan corak yang kuat dalam menonjolkan motif utamanya, Gajah Uling.

Motif : Kawung Gajah Uling Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia Motif kawung ini lebih menonjolkan kesan feminim. Sangat cocok dikenakan kaum wanita. Kombinasi warna mengesankan sifat keanggunan dan kebersahajaan.

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Motive : Kawung Gajah Uling Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Kawung Gajah Uling motive greatly shows feminism. It is very appropriate for female. The combination of color gives the sense of feminism dan the simplicity.

Motive : Ulo-uloan Gajah Uling Type : Batik Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Inspired by the local elements like scale of snake, Ulo-uloan Gajah Uling motive remains greatly showing the special characteristics of Banyuwangi batik, that is Gajah Uling.

Motif : Ulo-uloan Gajah Uling Jenis : Batik Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia Diilhami unsur lokal berupa sisik ular dan areal persawahan, motif ini masih tetap menonjolkan kekhasannya sebagai Batik Banyuwangi, yakni Gajah Uling.

Motif : Gajah Uling Beras Kutah Jenis : Batik Semi Tulis Kain : Primissima Pewarnaan : Kimia Gajah Uling Beras Kutah melambangkan bahwa dengan keyakinan Eling kepada Yang Maha Besar, kemakmuran dan kelimpahan pangan menjadi terwujud. Ini disimbolkan dengan beras kutah.

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Motive : Gajah Uling Beras Kutah Type : Batik Semi Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Gajah Uling Beras Kutah motive symbolizes that by having the belief in Almighty God, prosperity and the great amount of food will be available in this area. The great amount of food is symbolized by spilled rice (beras kutah).

Motive : Gajah Uling Sisik Papak Type : Batik Semi Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Motive : Gajah Uling Sisik Papak Type : Batik Semi Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical In Gajah Uling Sisik Papak motive, even though the scales of fish is portrayed in the blunt shape, it does not leave the impression that Banyuwangi land is also the producer of sea food that greatly supports the social prosperity.

Motive : Uling Kipasan Type : Batik Semi Tulis

Motif : Gajah Uling Sisik Papak Jenis : Batik Semi Tulis Kain : Primisima Pewarnaan : Kimia Dalam Gajah Uling Sisik Papak, kendati gambar sisik ikan dilukiskan berbentuk papak, tetap tidak meninggalkan kesan, bahwa Banyuwangi juga merupakan penghasil komoditi ikan laut yang cukup memberikan kesejahteraan.

Motif : Uling Kipasan Jenis : Batik Semi Tulis Kain : Primisima Pewarnaan : Kimia Motive Uling Kipasan adalah sebuah varian lain dari motif Gajah Uling, yang dikombinasi dengan motif dasar kipas-kipasan. Pilihan warna biru, hendak menonjolkan sifat kelembutan.

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Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical Uling kipasan is one kind of Gajah Uling Motives that is combined with basic motive Kipas-kipasan. The choice of blue color strongly shows the soft characteristics.

Motive : Gajah Uling Kacang-kacangan Type : Semi Tulis Cloth : Primissima Coloring : Chemical

Gajah Uling Kacang-kacangan motive is inspired by the idea that Banyuwangi is the producer of peanut. It

always arouses attention from batik designers, and then combined with Gajah Uling Motive as the

characteristics of Banyuwangi Batik.

Motif : Gajah Uling Kacangan Kacangan Jenis : Semi Tulis Kain : Primisima Pewarnaan : Kimia Suatu wilayah dengan hasil tani berupa kacang tanah, tetap memperoleh perhatian sang perancang motif batik, yang kemudian dituangkan secara kombinasi dengan motif Gajah Uling sebagai khas Banyuwangi. Dari kombinasi tersebut lahirlah motive Gajah Uling Kacang-kacangan.

Persebaran motif dan cprak batik lndonesla khususnya di Jawa Timur merupakan benluk representasi kearilan lokal seliap daerah. Latar

belakang sos,al budaya yang bertie<fa, memunculkan motif dan corak serta filosofi yang berbeda pula RagBJ11 klasll\ mengacu pada motif yang

sudah mengakar dan standar, sehlngga bentuknya letap. Adapun moUf kontemporer mengacu pada benWk-bentuk pengekspreslan mutakhlr, terutama dlkarenakan oleh kekhasan daerah (mlsalnya te1kall dengan

karakter alam dan komodltas unggulal'I daerah). Kekuatan potensl lokal secara keselurut)an ak.an menjadl branding

masyarakat yang ada pada masing-maslng daerah. Keberadaan motif dan corak batik Jawa Timur, secara representaur dlsajikan dalam buku lnl. Tentu, yang tersajik.an di slnl bukan final dan perkembangan motif

dan corak balik Jawa Timur.

The vast varieties or Ba.Uk motives and patterns ln Indonesia, especially In East Java, represent Iha local wisdom or each region. Different soclcxultural backgrounds contribute to the different motives, patterns, as well as Philosophies Classical motives refer to well-standardized and rooted values. and thus Oxed forms Contemporary motives refer to novel expressions. contributed by local characlerlsUcs (for Instance, related \0 natural characters and robust commodities of cerialn region).

1-ocal potentials holfsllcally formulate community branding or each region. Motives and patterns of East Java Batik are represented in lh1s piece or book. ll 1s obvious that all details in thrs book are not portraying the ultimate development of mouves and patterns or East Java Batik.