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ITPC BUSAN 2015 MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL DI KOREA SELATAN

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Page 1: TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL DI KOREA SELATAN · Tabel 2.6 Indikator Ekonomi dan Biaya Sewa Retail Utama bulan Maret 2012 44 ... Gambar 2.7 Busan International Textile and Fashion Show

ITPC BUSAN

2015

MARKET INTELLIGENCE

TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL

DI KOREA SELATAN

Page 2: TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL DI KOREA SELATAN · Tabel 2.6 Indikator Ekonomi dan Biaya Sewa Retail Utama bulan Maret 2012 44 ... Gambar 2.7 Busan International Textile and Fashion Show

MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 2

DAFTAR ISI

DAFTAR ISI 2

DAFTAR TABEL 3

DAFTAR GAMBAR 6

DAFTAR LAMPIRAN 7

KATA PENGANTAR 8

1. Latar Belakang 9

1.1. Definisi Tekstil dan Produk Tekstil 9

1.2. Pemilihan Negara 11

1.3. Pemilihan Produk 13

1.4. Profil Singkat Negara Korea Selatan 30

2. Perkembangan dan Strategi Penetrasi Pasar 34

2.1. Perkembangan TPT di Dunia 34

2.2. Perkembangan dan Tren TPT di Korea Selatan 38

2.3. Trend Impor TPT di Korea Selatan 45

2.4. Kebijakan Tariff 56

2.5. Strategi Bersaing dan Memasuki Pasar 61

2.6. Analisis Negara Pesaing Vietnam 64

3. Regulasi Produk TPT di Korea Selatan 67

3.1. Kebijakan Impor Produk TPT di Korea Selatan 67

3.2. Prosedur Impor (Import Procedures) 67

3.3. Pengurusan Ijin Impor (Import Clearence) 69

3.4. Standarisasi Produk di Korea Selatan 69

4. Informasi Penting 77

4.1. Nama Perwakilan Korea Selatan di Indonesia 77

4.2. Nama Perwakilan Indonesia di Korea Selatan 77

4.3. Perusahaan Importir TPT di Korea Selatan 78

Daftar Pustaka 82

Lampiran 83

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 3

DAFTAR TABEL

Tabel 1.1 Peringkat Negara berdasarkan GDP 11

Tabel 1.2 Perkembangan GDP Korea Selatan tahun 2010 - 2020 12

Tabel 1.3 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 50 tahun 2010 - 2014 14

Tabel 1.4 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 50 tahun 2010 - 2014 15

Tabel 1.5 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 51 tahun 2010 – 2014 15

Tabel 1.6 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 51 tahun 2010 – 2014 16

Tabel 1.7 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 52 tahun 2010 – 2014 16

Tabel 1.8 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 52 tahun 2010 – 2014 17

Tabel 1.9 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 53 tahun 2010 – 2014 17

Tabel 1.10 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 53 tahun 2010 – 2014 18

Tabel 1.11 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 54 tahun 2010 – 2014 18

Tabel 1.12 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 54 tahun 2010 – 2014 18

Tabel 1.13 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 55 tahun 2010 – 2014 19

Tabel 1.14 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 55 tahun 2010 – 2014 19

Tabel 1.15 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 56 tahun 2010 – 2014 20

Tabel 1.16 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 56 tahun 2010 – 2014 20

Tabel 1.17 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 59 tahun 2010 – 2014 21

Tabel 1.18 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 59 tahun 2010 – 2014 21

Tabel 1.19 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 60 tahun 2010 – 2014 22

Tabel 1.20 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 60 tahun 2010 – 2014 22

Tabel 1.21 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 61 tahun 2010 – 2014 23

Tabel 1.22 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 61 tahun 2010 – 2014 23

Tabel 1.23 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 62 tahun 2010 – 2014 24

Tabel 1.24 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 62 tahun 2010 – 2014 24

Tabel 1.25 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 63 tahun 2010 – 2014 25

Tabel 1.26 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 63 tahun 2010 – 2014 25

Tabel 1.27 Kode HS 50 dan deskripsi 26

Tabel 1.28 Kode HS 51 dan deskripsi 26

Tabel 1.29 Kode HS 52 dan deskripsi 27

Tabel 1.30 Kode HS 53 dan deskripsi 27

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 4

Tabel 1.31 Kode HS 54 dan deskripsi 27

Tabel 1.32 Kode HS 55 dan deskripsi 28

Tabel 1.33 Kode HS 56 dan deskripsi 28

Tabel 1.34 Kode HS 59 dan deskripsi 28

Tabel 1.35 Kode HS 60 dan deskripsi 29

Tabel 1.36 Kode HS 61 dan deskripsi 29

Tabel 1.37 Kode HS 62 dan deskripsi 29

Tabel 1.38 Kode HS 63 dan deskripsi 30

Tabel 2.1 Nilai Ekspor TPT Korea Selatan ke Dunia tahun 2011 – 2014 37

Tabel 2.2 Nilai Impor TPT Korea Selatan dari Dunia tahun 2011 – 2014 38

Tabel 2.3 Jumlah Perusahaan TPT di Korea Selatan tahun 2011 – 2014 39

Tabel 2.4 Data Penjualan produk TPT di Korea Selatan 2011 – 2014 43

Tabel 2.5 Data Penjualan Perusahaan Fesyen Merek Mewah di Korea Selatan 2010 43

Tabel 2.6 Indikator Ekonomi dan Biaya Sewa Retail Utama bulan Maret 2012 44

Tabel 2.7 Indikator Ekonomi dan Biaya Sewa Retail Utama bulan Juni 2015 44

Tabel 2.8 Nilai impor HS 50 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 45

Tabel 2.9 Nilai impor HS 51 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 46

Tabel 2.10 Nilai impor HS 52 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 46

Tabel 2.11 Nilai impor HS 53 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 47

Tabel 2.12 Nilai impor HS 54 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 47

Tabel 2.13 Nilai impor HS 55 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 48

Tabel 2.14 Nilai impor HS 56 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 48

Tabel 2.15 Nilai impor HS 59 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 49

Tabel 2.16 Nilai impor HS 60 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 49

Tabel 2.17 Nilai impor HS 61 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 50

Tabel 2.18 Nilai impor HS 62 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 50

Tabel 2.19 Nilai impor HS 63 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 51

Tabel 2.20 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 50 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 51

Tabel 2.21 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 51 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 52

Tabel 2.22 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 52 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 52

Tabel 2.23 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 53 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 52

Tabel 2.24 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 54 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 53

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 5

Tabel 2.25 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 55 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 53

Tabel 2.26 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 56 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 53

Tabel 2.27 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 59 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 54

Tabel 2.28 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 60 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 54

Tabel 2.29 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 61 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 54

Tabel 2.30 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 62 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 55

Tabel 2.31 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 63 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015 55

Tabel 2.32 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 50 berdasarkan FTA 56

Tabel 2.33 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 51 berdasarkan FTA 56

Tabel 2.34 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 52 berdasarkan FTA 57

Tabel 2.35 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 53 berdasarkan FTA 58

Tabel 2.36 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 54 berdasarkan FTA 58

Tabel 2.37 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 55 berdasarkan FTA 58

Tabel 2.38 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 56 berdasarkan FTA 59

Tabel 2.39 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 59 berdasarkan FTA 59

Tabel 2.40 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 60 berdasarkan FTA 59

Tabel 2.41 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 61 berdasarkan FTA 60

Tabel 2.42 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 62 berdasarkan FTA 60

Tabel 2.43 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 63 berdasarkan FTA 61

Tabel 3.1 Persyaratan Keamanan Tekstil untuk Produk Bayi 72

Tabel 3.2 Persyaratan Keamanan Tekstil untuk Produk Anak dan Dewasa 73

Tabel 3.3 Persyaratan Keamanan Tekstil untuk Produk Kulit 73

Tabel 3.4 Klasifikasi Korean Industrial Standards 75

Tabel 4.1 Daftar Nama Perwakilan Korea Selatan di Indonesia 77

Tabel 4.2 Daftar Nama Perwakilan Indonesia di Korea Selatan 77

Tabel 4.3 Perusahaan Importir TPT di Korea Selatan 78

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 6

DAFTAR GAMBAR

Gambar 1.1 Market Share Tekstil Korea Selatan di Dunia 13

Gambar 1.2 Grafik Negara Eksportir TPT 2014 14

Gambar 1.3 Peta Korea Selatan 30

Gambar 2.1 World Textile Mill Consumption 33

Gambar 2.2 Global Textiles and Clothing Market Forecast, 2013-2016 35

Gambar 2.3 Nilai Ekspor Dunia produk Tekstil tahun 2014 35

Gambar 2.4 Nilai Impor Dunia produk Tekstil tahun 2014 36

Gambar 2.5 Pertumbuhan Market Fesyen di Korea Selatan 41

Gambar 2.6 Pasar import pakaian Korea dan perkembangannya relatif terhadap

negara-negara di Asia (tahun 2007) dan Compounded Annual

Growth Rate (CAGR) 42

Gambar 2.7 Busan International Textile and Fashion Show 2010 63

Gambar 2.8 Diagram Labour Cost in The Textile Industri 2014 65

Gambar 3.1 Diagram Prosedur Bea Cukai secara umum di Korea Selatan 67

Gambar 3.2 Prosedur Bea Cukai Impor 68

Gambar 3.3 Diagram Prosedur Bea Cukai Korea Selatan di bawah FTA 69

Gambar 3.4 Tanda Sertifikasi Standar Korea 70

Gambar 3.5 Diagram Prosedur Mendapatkan Sertifikasi untuk produk Barang 74

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 7

DAFTAR LAMPIRAN

Lampiran I Section XI TEXTILES AND REXTILES ARTICLES 83

Lampiran II Chapter 50 108

Lampiran III Chapter 51 108

Lampiran IV Chapter 52 109

Lampiran V Chapter 53 109

Lampiran VI Chapter 54 110

Lampiran VII Chapter 55 114

Lampiran VIII Chapter 56 115

Lampiran IX Chapter 59 116

Lampiran X Chapter 60 119

Lampiran XI Chapter 61 122

Lampiran XII Chapter 62 126

Lampiran XIII Chapter 63 131

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 8

Kata Pengantar

Market Intelligence ini bertujuan memberikan informasi yang terkait kondisi pasar

untuk komoditi tekstil dan produk tekstil di Korea Selatan. Tekstil dan produk tekstil (TPT)

adalah salah satu produk ekspor andalan Indonesia. Sejarah pertekstilan Indonesia sendiri

sudah berkembang pesat sejak tahun 80-an. Pertumbuhan jumlah penduduk di dunia juga

memberikan pengaruh terhadap tingkat konsumsi ataupun permintaan untuk produk

tekstil. Pertumbuhan jumlah penduduk ini memberikan peluang bagi penghasil tekstil dan

produk tekstil untuk terus meningkatkan pangsa pasarnya, baik itu di dalam negeri maupun

luar negeri. Selain pertumbuhan jumlah penduduk, perkembangan industri fesyen juga

memberikan perngaruh terhadap industri tekstil dan produk tekstil.

Market intelligence ini memberikan gambaran mengenai tekstil dan produk tekstil di

Korea Selatan. Laporan ini juga menyertakan keterangan lain mulai dari profil negara hingga

prosedur pengurusan ijin impor, dan sebagainya. Selain itu, laporan ini juga menjelaskan

tentang peluang pasar serta strategi pengusaha Indonesia untuk menembus pasar Korea

Selatan.

Sebagai tambahan, laporan ini juga menyertakan analisa pesaing dengan Viet Nam,

sesama negara anggota ASEAN yang merupakan negara kompetitor Indonesia sebagai

eksportir tekstil dan produk tekstil ke Korea Selatan. Besar harapan kami, analisa pesaing ini

dapat memberikan gambaran umum baik kepada pengusaha maupun pemerintah Indonesia

untuk mengembangkan kondisi baik teknik maupun non-teknis untuk meningkatkan nilai

ekonomis industri tekstil dan produk tekstil.

Busan, Desember 2015

ITPC Busan

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 9

1. Latar Belakang

1.1. Definisi Tekstil dan Produk Tekstil

Tekstil dan produk tekstil (TPT) adalah salah satu produk ekspor utama Indonesia.

Sejarah pertekstilan di Indonesia sendiri sudah berkembang pesat sejak tahun 80-an.

Pertumbuhan jumlah penduduk di dunia menjadikan tingkat konsumsi maupun permintaan

pasar dunia untuk tekstil dan produk tekstil selalu meningkat. Pertumbuhan jumlah

penduduk di dunia ini merupakan peluang yang sangat baik bagi para penghasil tekstil

maupun produk tekstil untuk meningkatkan pangsa pasarnya.

Secara teknis, struktur industri tekstil nasional dibagi menjadi tiga sektor, yaitu :

sektor hulu (upstream), sektor menengah (midstream) dan sektor hilir (downstream). Di

sektor hulu adalah pembuatan serat (fiber) dan proses pemintal (spinning), seperti serat

kapas, serat sintetik, serat selulosa dan juga bahan baku serat sintetik. Industri sektor hulu

ini banyak bersifat padat modal, mesin full automatic dan berskala besar. Sedangkan untuk

industri menengah, meliputi tahap pemintalan (spinning), pertenunan (weaving), dan

pencelupan atau penyempurnaan (dyeing/ finishing).

Industri tekstil ini sendiri merupakan industri yang besar dan beragam serta

mencakup berbagai macam aktivitas. Aktivitas tersebut seperti transformasi bahan baku

menjadi serat, benang dan kain hingga produksi berbagai macam barang seperti tekstil

sintesis berteknologi tinggi, benang wol, saringan untuk industri, geotekstil serta pakaian

jadi. Kain digunakan untuk berbagai macam kebutuhan, termasuk diantaranya adalah untuk

industri garmen, peralatan olah raga, perabotan rumah tangga, teknik (konstruksi, otomotif

dan penerbangan), mebel dan juga tekstil untuk keperluan medis.

Produk tekstil adalah produk mentah, produk setengah olah ataupun yang telah

diolah, produk semi manufaktur, produk setengah jadi atau produk jadi, yang secara khusus

terdiri dari serat tekstil. Semua itu terlepas dari proses pencampuran atau proses perakitan

yang digunakan dalam pengolahan.

Tekstil teknik yang juga dikenal dengan nama tekstil industri, merupakan sub-

kategori dalam sektor produk tekstil serta sektor produk pakaian. Tekstil teknik mencakup

beragam produk persilangan dari berbagai sub-sektor, dan dapat didefinisikan sebagai jenis

tekstil yang (atau tidak secara khusus) diproduksi utamanya untuk karakteristik estetika atau

dekoratifnya dan penggunaan akhirnya yang terkait dengan produk-produk industri lainnya.

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 10

Produk tekstil teknis dapat bervariasi dari plester medis hingga bagian mobil yang terbuat

dari serat karbon, dan juga (sebagai contoh) struktur atap yang dilapisi plastik.

Produk tekstil, selain dipergunakan untuk pakaian jadi pada umumnya, dapat juga

diaplikasikan pada berbagi industri kreatif, seperti produk kerajinan tekstil. Produk kerajinan

tekstil ini merupakan produk yang mempunyai prospek baik untuk pasar lokal maupun pasar

internasional. Indonesia sendiri merupakan negara yang terkenal segabai produsen

kerajinan. Beberapa jenis produk kerajinan dari Indonesia yang populer di pasar

internasional seperti kerajinan berbahan dasar tekstil/ serat, kayu, bambu, keramik dan

batuan alam. Produk kerajinan Indonesia yang banyak dimintai di pasar internasional

meliputi produk aksesori dan cinderamata seperti tas, hiasan dinding, taplak meja dan

lainnya.

Industri tekstil dan produk tekstil merupakan salah satu industri yang di

prioritaskan untuk dikembangkan karena memiliki peran yang strategis dalam

perekonomian nasional yaitu sebagai penyumbang devisa negara, menyerap tenaga kerja

dalam jumlah besar dan sebagai industry andalan untuk memenuhi kebutuhan sandang

nasional. Hal ini dapat ditunjukkan melalui perolehan surplus ekspor terhadap impor selama

satu dasawarsa terakhir, bahkan saat krisis ekonomi, TPT Nasional masih dapat

mempertahankan surplus perdagangannya dengan nilai tidak kurang dari US$ 5 Milyar,

penyerapan tenaga kerja 1,34 juta jiwa, capaian TKDN hingga 63% dan berkontribusi

memenuhi kebutuhan domestik sebesar 46%.

Ditinjau dari performa neraca ekspor-impor antara Indonesia dengan beberapa

negara produsen TPT Asia untuk produk serat, benang, kain lembaran dan pakaian jadi pada

kurun waktu tahun 2008 dan 2009, menunjukkan bahwa ITPT Nasional masih cukup baik.

Namun, performa ekspor-impor TPT Nasional yang cukup baik itu belum dapat menjadi

jaminan bahwa ke depan industri TPT masih tetap dapat bersaing, mengingat kinerja ekspor

selama lima tahun terakhir cenderung melambat, akibat dari kompleksitas berbagai faktor

yang dihadapi industri TPT. Sementara industri TPT Nasional memiliki cukup banyak faktor

yang potensial berpengaruh melemahkan daya saing, baik faktor internal maupun faktor

eksternal, yang perlu segera diselesaikan dengan program kerja yang konkrit, implementatif,

terarah, dan sinergis.

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 11

1.2. Pemilihan Negara

Korea Selatan merupakan terbesar ke-sebelas berdasarkan GDP1. Korea Selatan

tergabung dalam beberapa organisasi ekonomi internasional seperti G-20 ekonomi utama,

APEC, WTO dan OECD. Pertumbuhan ekonominya yang sangat cepat membuat negara ini

dikenal dengan sebutan Macan Asia dan dikategorikan sebagai salah satu negara yang akan

menguasai perekonomian dunia di grup The Next Eleven. Pertumbuhan ekonomi yang

sangat pesat ini sering dijuluki dengan istilah Keajaiban di Sungai Han. Tabel di bawah ini

menginformasikan mengenai rangking negara berdasarkan GDP tahun 2015.

Tabel 1.1 Peringkat Negara berdasarkan GDP (Current Price)

(billion USD)

No Negara 2013 2014 2015

1 United States 16,663.20 17,348.10 17,968.20

2 China 9,490.80 10,356.50 11,384.80

3 Japan 4,919.60 4,602.40 4,116.20

4 Germany 3,746.50 3,874.40 3,371.00

5 United Kingdom 2,678.40 2,950.00 2,864.90

6 France 2,811.10 2,833.70 2,422.60

7 India 1,875.20 2,051.20 2,182.60

8 Italy 2,137.60 2,147.70 1,819.00

9 Brazil 2,391.00 2,346.60 1,799.60

10 Canada 1,839.00 1,785.40 1,572.80

11 Korea 1,305.60 1,410.40 1,393.00

12 Australia 1,497.20 1,442.70 1,240.80

13 Russia 2,079.00 1,860.60 1,235.90

14 Spain 1,393.50 1,406.50 1,221.40

15 Mexico 1,261.90 1,291.10 1,161.50

16 Indonesia 912.5 888.6 872.6

17 Netherlands 864.4 880.7 750.8

18 Turkey 823 798.3 722.2

19 Switzerland 685.2 703.9 677

20 Saudi Arabia 744.3 746.2 632.1

Source: IMF World Economic Outlook (WEO), October 2015

1 IMF World Economic Outlook (WEO), October 2015

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 12

GDP Korea Selatan sendiri dari tahun 2010 sampai dengan 2014 mengalami

peningkatan, tetapi pada tahun 2015 ini mengalami penurunan, namun menurut prakiraan

dari IMF, GDP Korea Selatan akan mengalami peningkatan hingga tahun 2020, dengan

pertumbuhan diatas 3%.

Tabel 1.2 Perkembangan GDP Korea Selatan Tahun 2010 – 2020

Year

GDP, current

prices, billion

$US

GDP, current

PPP dollars, bln.

Real GDP

Growth,

%

2010 1,094.50 1,473.70 6.5

2011 1,202.50 1,559.40 3.7

2012 1,222.80 1,624.60 2.3

2013 1,305.60 1,698.90 2.9

2014 1,410.40 1,784.00 3.3

2015 1,393.00 1,849.40 2.7

2016 1,450.10 1,930.50 3.2

2017 1,545.80 2,034.70 3.6

2018 1,649.10 2,150.70 3.6

2019 1,763.40 2,276.20 3.6

2020 1,898.80 2,408.30 3.6

Source: IMF World Economic Outlook (WEO), October 2015

Selain dilihat dari GDP Korea Selatan, pemilihan negara ini juga melihat posisi Korea

Selatan di pasar dunia untuk tekstil dan produk tekstil. Korea Selatan menempati posisi yang

cukup penting di mata dunia karena produk tekstil Korea Selatan berkontribusi pada 2%

pasar dunia. Diperkirakan oleh Korea Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI) bahwa

produk tekstil Korea akan semakin meningkat karena pemerintah serius untuk

meningkatkan produk tekstil dalam negeri dengan inovasi bahan serta teknologi tekstil

untuk mengatasi kebutuhan internasional.

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MARKET INTELLIGENCE TEKSTIL DAN PRODUK TEKSTIL ITPC BUSAN 13

Sumber : www.kofoti.or.kr

Gambar 1.1 Market Share Tekstil Korea Selatan di Dunia

1.3. Pemilihan Produk

Industri tekstil dan produk tekstil (TPT) merupakan salah satu penyumbang devisa

Indonesia. Untuk kelompok hasil industri ekspor, industri TPT ini mneyumbang 10,84% pada

tahun 2014 yang lalu2 meskipun 85 persen bahan baku yang berupa kapas masih diimpor.

Selain mempunyai kontribusi besar terhadap GDP dan perolehan devisa, industri TPT

ini juga menyerap banyak tenaga kerja. Pangsa tenaga kerja industri TPT ini terhadap

industri pengolahan mencapai rata-rata 10 persen pertahun. Dengan jumlah angkatan kerja

Indonesia yang mencapai 112 juta orang3, merupakan suatu keunggulan, industri tekstil

yang memerlukan jumlah tenaga kerja yang banyak sangat sesuai dengan kondisi Indonesia.

Selain jumlah penduduk yang besar, upah tenaga kerja di Indonesia juga relatif rendah, oleh

sebab itu kondisi ini sangat potensial untuk investasi.

Selain itu juga Indonesia merupakan salah satu produsen terbesar TPT di dunia. Pada

tahun 2014, menurut www.statista.com Indonesia mencatatkan ekspor textile sebesar US$

5 miliar.

2 http://www.kemenperin.go.id/statistik 3 http://www.bps.go.id/

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Sumber : www.statista.com

Gambar 1.2 Grafik Negara Eksportir TPT 2014

Sebagai salah satu produsen terbesar tekstil di dunia, nilai ekspor tekstil Indonesia

juga menunjukkan tren yang meningkat. Berikut di bawah ini merupakan tabel – tabel yang

menginformasikan mengenai nilai ekspor dan negara tujuan ekspor komoditas TPT

Indonesia berdasarkan kode HS dua digit.

Tabel 1.3 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 50 tahun 2010 - 2014

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Tabel 1.4 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 50 tahun 2010 - 2014

Tabel 1.5 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 51 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.6 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 51 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.7 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 52 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.8 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 52 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.9 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 53 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.10 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 53 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.11 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 54 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.12 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 54 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.13 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 55 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.14 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 55 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.15 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 56 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.16 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 56 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.17 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 59 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.18 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 59 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.19 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 60 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.20 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 60 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.21 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 61 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.22 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 61 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.23 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 62 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.24 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 62 tahun 2010 – 2014

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Tabel 1.25 Nilai Ekspor Indonesia HS 63 tahun 2010 – 2014

Tabel 1.26 Negara Tujuan Ekspor Indonesia HS 63 tahun 2010 – 2014

Untuk mempermudah penggolongan barang, komoditi TPT dikelompokkan kedalam

kode HS atau Harmonized System. Pengertian kode HS secara lengkap adalah suatu daftar

penggolongan barang yang dibuat secara sistematis dengan tujuan mempermudah

penarifan, transaksi perdagangan, pengangkutan dan statistik yang telah diperbaiki dari

sistem klasifikasi sebelumnya.

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Harmonized Commodity Description and Coding System atau lebih dikenal

dengan Harmonized System disusun pada tahun 1986 oleh sebuah Kelompok studi

dari Customs Cooperation Council (sekarang dikenal dengan nama World Customs

Organisation), dan disahkan pada konvensi HS yang ditandatangani oleh tujuh puluh Negara

yang sebagian besar Negara Eropa, namun sekarang hampir semua Negara ikut meratifikasi,

termasuk Indonesia yang mengesahkannya melalui Keppres no. 35 tahun 1993.

Tujuan dari pembuatan HS ini di antaranya adalah :

Memberikan keseragaman dalam penggolongan daftar barang yang sistematis

Memudahkan pengumpulan data dan analisis statistik perdagangan dunia

Memberikan sistem internasional yang resmi untuk pemberian kode, penjelasan dan

penggolongan barang untuk tujuan perdagangan

Untuk komoditas Tekstil dan produk tekstil ini masuk ke dalam kategori kode HS 50,

HS 51, HS 52, HS 53, HS 54, HS 55, HS 56, HS 59, HS 60, HS 61, HS 62 DAN HS 63. Secara

detail, defenisi dari kode HS tersebut adalah sebagai berikut :

Tabel 1.27 Kode HS 50 dan deskripsi

Tabel 1.28 Kode HS 51 dan deskripsi

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Tabel 1.29 Kode HS 52 dan deskripsi

Tabel 1.30 Kode HS 53 dan deskripsi

Tabel 1.31 Kode HS 54 dan deskripsi

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Tabel 1.32 Kode HS 55 dan deskripsi

Tabel 1.33 Kode HS 56 dan deskripsi

Tabel 1.34 Kode HS 59 dan deskripsi

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Tabel 1.35 Kode HS 60 dan deskripsi

Tabel 1.36 Kode HS 61 dan deskripsi

Tabel 1.37 Kode HS 62 dan deskripsi

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Tabel 1.38 Kode HS 63 dan deskripsi

1.4. Profil Singkat Negara Korea Selatan

Korea Selatan adalah negara Republik.

Sistem pemerintahan di Korea Selatan

terbagi kedalam tiga bagian : eksekutif,

yudikatif dan legislatif. Lembaga

eksekutif dipegang oleh Presiden yang

dipilih berdasarkan hasil pemilu untuk

masa jabatan 5 tahun dan dibantu

oleh Perdana Menteri yang ditunjuk

oleh presiden dengan persetujuan

Majelis Nasional. Presiden bertindak sebagai Kepala negara dan Perdana Menteri sebagai

kepala pemerintahan. Lembaga legislatif dipegang oleh dewan perwakilan yang menjabat

selama 4 tahun. Pelaksanaan sidang paripurna diadakan setiap setahun sekali atau

berdasarkan permintaan presiden. Sidang ini terbuka untuk umum namun dapat

berlangsung tertutup.

Pengadilan konstitusional menjadi lembaga tertinggi pemegang kekuasaan yudikatif

yang terdiri atas 9 hakim yang direkomendasikan oleh presiden dan dewan perwakilan.

Hakim akan menjabat selama enam tahun dan usianya tidak boleh melebihi 65 tahun pada

saat terpilih.

Secara geografis Korea Selatan memiliki luas sebesar 100.460 km4 dengan jumlah

4 http://kbriseoul.kr/

Gambar 1.3 Peta Korea Selatan

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penduduk 50,42 jt5 yang tersebar di berbagai kota-kota besar, seperti Seoul, Busan,

Incheon, Daegu, Daejeon, Gwangju, dan Suwon. Korea Utara merupakan satu-satunya

negara yang berbatasan langsung dengan Korea Selatan, dengan panjang perbatasan 238

km yang ditetapkan dengan DMZ (Garis Demarkasi Militer). Wilayahnya sebagian besar

dikelilingi perairan dan memiliki panjang garis pantai 2.413 km. Sebelah barat dibatasi

oleh Laut Kuning, sebelah selatan dengan Laut Cina Timur, sementara sebelah timur

berbatasan dengan perairan Laut Jepang.

Dan di tahun 2007 hingga 2009, Korea Selatan kembali mengalami resesi ekonomi

sebagai akibat dari krisis finansial dunia dimana mengalami defisit neraca perdagangan yang

membuat laju pertumbuhan ekonomi melambat sebesar 0,2%. Akan tetapi kondisi ekonomi

mulai membaik dan menujukkan pertumbuhan ekonomi mencapai 3,3% di tahun 20146.

Selama beberapa dekade pemerintah memberikan dukungan kepada berbagai

perusahaan raksasa yang dikenal dengan istilah “chaebol” (perusahaan yang dimiliki oleh

sebuah keluarga maupun kelompok industri tertentu). Hal ini tentu menjadikan Korea

Selatan salah satu negara dengan perekonomian terbesar serta pengekspor produk

eletronik dan otomotif terbesar di dunia. Namun akhir-akhir ini sistem perekonomian Korea

Selatan mengalami perubahan dari centrally-planned government directed investment

menjadi market oriented model.

Kerjasama Ekonomi Korea Selatan dan Indonesia

Semenjak dibukanya hubungan diplomatik pada tahun 1966, hubungan bilateral

antara Indonesia dan Republik Korea (ROK) terus mengalami perkembangan dan

peningkatan dari tahun ke tahun di berbagai bidang. Hubungan yang erat ini dapat dilihat

dari meningkatnya kerjasama dalam 5 (lima) tahun terakhir yang tercermin dari

bertambahnya ikatan kerjasama antara kedua negara di berbagai bidang seperti politik,

keamanan, ekonomi, perdagangan dan sosial budaya.

Dalam konteks hubungan bilateral, Indonesia–Korsel berada pada posisi yang saling

melengkapi. Kedua negara berpotensi untuk saling mengisi satu sama lain. Di satu pihak,

Indonesia memerlukan modal/investasi, teknologi dan produk-produk teknologi dan di lain

pihak, Korsel memerlukan sumber alam/mineral, tenaga kerja dan pasar Indonesia yang

5 http://data.worldbank.org/country/korea-republic 6 http://data.worldbank.org/

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besar. ROK merupakan alternatif sumber teknologi khususnya di bidang heavy industry, IT

dan telekomunikasi.

Hubungan kerjasama bilateral RI-ROK yang terbina dengan baik di bidang ekonomi

dan politik, dapat dilihat dari tingginya tingkat kunjungan antar pemimpin kedua negara

seperti diantaranya:

Kunjungan Kenegaraan Presiden Lee Myung Bak, Maret 2009

Kunjungan Presiden Soesilo Bambang Yudhoyono (ASEAN-ROK Commemorative Summit),

Juni 2009

Kunjungan Presiden Soesilo Bambang Yudhoyono (G-20 Summit), Nopember 2010

Kunjungan Presiden Lee Myung Bak (Bali Democracy Forum), Desember 2010

Kunjungan Presiden Lee Myung Bak (ASEAN plus three, East Asia), Nopember 2011

Kunjungan Presiden Soesilo Bambang Yudhoyono (Nuclear Security Summit), Maret 2012

Kunjungan Presiden Lee Myung Bak (Bali Democracy Forum), Nopember 2012

Kunjungan Kenegaraan Presiden Park Geun Hye (APEC dan State Visit), Oktober 2013

Kunjungan Presiden Joko Widodo (25th Asean – ROK Commemorative Summit), Oktober

2014

Dalam hubungan kerjasama di sektor ekonomi, pencapaian target untuk

meningkatkan kerjasama RI-ROK juga didukung dengan membentuk Comprehensive

Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) untuk melengkapi perjanjian ASEAN-ROK Free

Trade Area (FTA) yang telah ada sebelumnya.

Perundingan Indonesia Korea Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement

(IKCEPA) saat ini telah terselenggara sebanyak tujuh kali. Pelaksanaan terakhir diadakan di

Seoul, Korea, pada tanggal 21-28 Februari 2014. Putaran ini merupakan lanjutan dari

putaran keenam IKCEPA yang diadakan di Bali pada tanggal 4-8 Nopember 2013. IKCEPA

terakhir telah dicapai suatu kesepakatan dimana telah disepakati untuk dibentuk pilar

utama untuk meningkatkan akses pasar perdagangan barang dan jasa, fasilitasi perdagangan

dan investasi serta cooperation termasuk capacity buiding.

Hubungan kerjasama terus terjalin, ini dibuktikan dengan dilaksanakannya

pertemuan ke-5 Indonesia-Korea Working Level Task Force (WLTF) on Economic Cooperation

pada tanggal 29-30 September 2014 di Seoul, dimana pelaksanaan tersebut diwakili dari

berbagai Kementerian RI dan Korea Selatan. Dalam pertemuan ke-5 WLTF tersebut, kedua

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pihak membahas berbagai proyek yang sedang berlangsung maupun yang akan dilakukan.

Kedua pihak sepakat untuk mengakselerasi kerjasama bilateral dengan memprioritaskan 10

proyek utama.

Pertemuan ke-5 Plenary WLTF juga sepakat untuk memperpanjang TOR

pembentukan Joint Secretariat yang akan segera berakhir sehingga Joint Sekretariat yang

telah berjalan sejak bulan Februari tahun 2012 tersebut dapat terus berjalan untuk

menjembatani berbagai kerjasama antara kedua negara. Pertemuan sepakat untuk

melaporkan hasil pertemuan WLTF ini pada pertemuan tingkat Menteri antara kedua negara

yang akan diadakan di Indonesia pada tahun 2015.

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2. Perkembangan dan Strategi Penetrasi Pasar

2.1. Perkembangan TPT di Dunia

A. Perdagangan TPT di Dunia

Perkembangan komoditi tekstil dan produk tekstil di dunia menunjukkan tren yang

positif. Tren positif tersebut dapat terlihat dari konsumsi global untuk tekstil yang selalu

meningkat. Gambar diagram di bawah ini menunjukkan konsumsi dunia untuk tekstil.

Gambar 2.1 World Textile Mill Consumption

Berdasarkan gambar diatas, konsumsi dunia untuk tekstil semenjak tahun 1980

selalu meningkat. Konsumsi dunia untuk tekstil itu termasuk diantaranya adalah wool,

akrilik, polypropylene filament, nilon, cellulosic filament, poliester dan katun. Diagram

diatas juga menunjukkan perkiraan konsumsi dunia hingga tahun 2030 mendatang.

Konsumsi TPT yang meningkat ini juga merupakan potensi untuk negara-negara produsen

produk TPT, termasuk Indonesia sendiri.

Selain dari konsumsi dunia untuk tekstil, perkembangan positif komoditi TPT ini juga

sejalan dengan perkembangan market untuk produk tersebut. Menurut data yang diperoleh

dari www.reportlinker.com, market TPT sejak tahun 2013 mengalami peningkatan. Data

tersebut juga membuat perkiraan market TPT untuk tahun 2016.

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Sumber : www.reportlinker.com

Gambar 2.2 Global Textiles and Clothing Market Forecast, 2013-2016

Pada tahun 2014, Cina merupakan negara eksportir terbesar untuk produk Tekstil.

Pada tahun tersebut, nilai ekspor Cina mencapai US$ 112 miliar. Angka ini sangat jauh bisa

dibandingkan dengan negara – negara eksportir lainnya seperti negara Eropa, India dan

Amerika Serikat. Indonesia sendiri pada tahun 2014 mencatatkan angka sebesar US$ 5

miliar. Gambar 2.3 dibawah ini menberikan informasi detail mengenai negara – negara

eksportir tekstil dan nilai ekspornya pada tahun 2014.

Sumber : www.statista.com

Gambar 2.3 Nilai Ekspor Dunia produk Tekstil tahun 2014

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Sedangkan untuk impor tekstil, negara- negara European Union (EU) merupakan

negara pengimpor terbesar pada tahun 2014. Nilai impor negara – negara tersebut

mencapai US$ 83 miliar, kemudian diikuti oleh Amerika Serikat dengan nilai US$ 28 dan Cina

dengan nilai impor sebesar US$ 20 miliar. Indonesia juga termasuk negara pengimpor

produk tekstil. Pada tahun 2014, nilai impor Indonesia untuk produk tekstil adalah sebesar

US$ 6 miliar. Untuk lebih jelasnya, dapat dilihat di Gambar 2.4 dibawah ini.

Sumber : www.statista.com

Gambar 2.4 Nilai Impor Dunia produk Tekstil tahun 2014

B. Perdagangan Korea Selatan dan Dunia

Berdasarkan item produk, perdagangan ekspor Korea Selatan ke dunia dapat dilihat

pada Tabel 2.1 dibawah ini. Produk yang mendominasi adalah kain (fabric) dan pakaian jadi

(textile products). Nilai ekspor TPT Korea Selatan ini dari tahun 2011 hingga 2014 mengalami

peningkatan dan juga penurunan. Sebagai contoh, nilai total produk kain (fabric) menurun

dari US$ 9,683 miliar pada tahun 2011 menjadi US$ 9,264 miliar pada tahun 2014.

Sedangkan nilai ekspor untuk produk pakaian jadi mengalami peningkatan, dari total US$

3,025 miliar pada tahun 2011 menjadi US$ 3,618 miliar pada tahun 2014.

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Tabel 2.1 Nilai Ekspor TPT Korea Selatan ke Dunia tahun 2011 – 2014

Sedangkan untuk impor TPT Korea Selatan, produk benang (yarn) dan pakaian jadi

(textile products) mendominasi perdagangan Korea Selatan. Nilai impor TPT Korea Selatan

dari tahun 2011 hingga 2014 mengalami peningkatan dan penurunan. Nilai impor produk

benang (yarn) mengalami penurunan dari US$ 2,567 miliar pada tahun 2011 menjadi US$

2,091 miliar pada tahun 2014. Sedangkan produk pakaian jadi mengalami peningkatan dari

US$ 7,804 miliar pada tahun 2011 menjadi US$ 10,474 miliar pada tahun 2014.

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Tabel 2.2 Nilai Impor TPT Korea Selatan dari Dunia tahun 2011 – 2014

2.2. Perkembangan dan Tren TPT di Korea Selatan

A. Perkembangan Tekstil di Korea Selatan

Perkembangan tekstil Korea Selatan tidak terlepas dari diadakannya kerjasama Free

Trade Agreement (FTA) dengan Amerika Serikat. Dengan Fta tersebut, Korea Selatan perlu

mempertimbangkan secara serius perkembangan industri tekstil dalam negeri. Antara tahun

2004 dan 2009, ekspor Produk Tekstil dari Amerika Serikat ke Korea Selatan meningkat

41.7% dan impor tesktil Amerika Serikat dari Korea Selatan menurun sebesar 64.5%.7

Pemerintah Korea Selatan mengkhawatirkan banjirnya produk impor dari Amerika

akan menambah persaingan dengan produk tekstil dalam negeri. Hal ini akan berdampak

7 http://www.thetexperts.com/trade-policies-barriers-02.php

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pada produksi tekstil secara keseluruhan, bahkan mempengaruhi ekspor Korea Selatan

untuk produk tekstil yang terlihat menanjak hingga penghujung 2011, namun cenderung

menurun hingga awal tahun 2012 dimana salah satunya dipengaruhi oleh FTA antara Korea

dan Amerika Serikat.

Kondisi perdagangan tekstil Korea Selatan dengan Amerika Serikat akan

mempengaruhi produksi domestik Korea Selatan dikarenakan persaingan yang sangat ketat

untuk nilai produksi dan secara tidak langsung akan berpengaruh pada ekspor Korea

Selatan. Oleh karena itu, Korea Selatan diperkirakan akan semakin banyak mengimpor

barang mentah (raw material) atau barang setengah jadi (semi-finished good) untuk

meningkatkan ekspor tekstil dan kain Korea Selatan.

Korea Selatan menempati posisi yang cukup penting di mata dunia karena produk

tekstil Korea Selatan berkontribusi pada 2% pasar dunia. Diperkirakan oleh Korea Federation

of Textile Industries (KOFOTI) bahwa produk tekstil Korea akan semakin meningkat karena

pemerintah serius untuk meningkatkan produk tekstil dalam negeri dengan inovasi bahan

serta teknologi tekstil untuk mengatasi kebutuhan internasional. Tabel 1 menunjukkan

bagaimana kontribusi perusahaan tekstil dan kain dari total keseluruhan industri

manufaktur di Korea Selatan. 10% industri tekstil dan kain di Korea Selatan memberi

kontribusi sekitar 3.8% nilai tambah bagi ekonomi Korea Selatan.

Dengan adanya FTA Korea dan Amerika serikat juga berimpas kepada jumlah

perusahaan manufaktur di Korea Selatan. Jumlah perusahaan tekstil dan pakaian jadi di

Korea Selatan dari tahun 2011 hingga 2014 mengalami peningkatan dan penurunan. Tabel di

bawah ini menberikan informasi yang lebih detail mengenai jumlah perusahaan tekstil dan

pakaian jadi yang ada di Korea Selatan beserta dengan jumlah tenaga kerja dan value of

shipment.

Tabel 2.3 Jumlah Perusahaan TPT di Korea Selatan tahun 2011 – 2014

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B. Perkembangan Pakaian Jadi di Korea Selatan

Pertumbuhan industri fesyen di Korea Selatan sangat pesat. Pada tahun 2013,

transaksi industri ini mencapai 47 triliun won. Pertumbuhan industri inipun mencapai 5,7

persen selama tiga tahun terakhir.

Dengan pertumbuhan yang tinggi dan transaksi yang besar, Korea Selatan telah

menjadi lahan peperangan merek global Specialty retailer of Private label Apparel (SPA)

untuk mendapatkan keuntungan. Masuknya UNIQLO dari Jepang (2006), FOREVER 21 dari

USA dan ZARA dari Spanyol (2008) dan H&M dari Swedia (2010) hanyalah permulaan. Toko

perdana Abercrombie & Fitch (A&F) akan dibuka di International Finance Center (IFC) Mall,

Seoul, Agustus 2012, dimana ZARA dan H&M juga akan membuka toko super besar.

Berdasarkan penelitian Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry, Penjualan

Global SPA untuk merek Uniqlo, Zara dan H&M mencapai 1 triliun won pada tahun 2013.

Pada saat ini market untuk merek SPA ini di Korea Selatan mencapai 8 persen atau sekitar 3

triliun won dari Industri Fesyen di Korea Selatan. Pertumbuhan ini diprediksi akan mencapai

30 persen lebih di tahun yang akan datang, mengingat Korea Selatan adalah pasar potensial

bagi merek SPA global untuk percobaan barang baru.

Menurut penelitian Samsung Fashion Institute, 3 merek utama untuk global SPA –

UNIQLO, ZARA dan H&M – telah bertumbuh rata-rata 56% dalam tiga tahun terakhir. Data

ini kontras dengan pertumbuhan fesyen produk Korea sendiri secara keseluruhan 3.9 persen

per tahun (data 2011). Persaingan ini akan semakin ketat dengan kemunculan produk

fesyen dari Korea Selatan dengan nama 8seconds yang diluncurkan sejak tanggal 23

Februari 2012 dengan slogan “lebih murah dari ZARA, lebih trendi dari UNIQLO”8.

Peningkatan Korea Selatan di bidang fesyen dapat dilihat dari beberapa faktor di

antaranya adalah sebagai berikut :

1. Perkembangan global SPA merek lokal Korea Selatan

2. Peningkatan pasar domestik Korea untuk pakaian jadi dari tahun ke tahun

3. Pertumbuhan Luxury Brand Fashion di Korea Selatan

4. Pertumbuhan ekonomi dan kawasan fesyen utama di Korea Selatan

8 http://koreajoongangdaily.joinsmsn.com/news/article/Article.aspx?aid=2949359

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Untuk lebih jelasnya lagi, dibawah ini akan dipaparkan lebih mendalam mengenai

setiap faktor.

1. Perkembangan global SPA merek lokal Korea Selatan

8seconds adalah produk follower dari produk global SPA Korea Selatan yang baru saja

berkembang seperti LG Fashion (November 2011) dan E-Land (merek SPAO – November

2009). Gerai 8seconds yang baru berdiri 23 Februari 2012 menambah maraknya persaingan

global SPA di Korea Selatan. Disinyalir adanya kompetisi dalam merek lokal fesyen Korea, E-

Land meluncurkan merek kedua mereka (MIXXO) di Myeong-dong, 5 hari setelah 8seconds

berdiri disana. Persaingan yang ketat antara pemain fesyen besar di Korea Selatan

menunjukkan gairah pasar domestik yang besar terhadap fesyen.

Pendirian IFC Mall yang akan dibuka Agustus 2012 dengan luas total sebesar 40.000 m2

dengan tenan utama di area fesyen seperti H&M, Inditex dan Hollister (A&F) diharapkan

menjadi mall pertama di Korea yang tidak memiliki nama merek mall tersendiri.

2. Peningkatan pasar domestik Korea untuk pakaian jadi dari tahun ke tahun

Gambar 2.5 Pertumbuhan Market Fesyen di Korea Selatan

Pasar tekstil domestik Korea lambat laun mengalami kenaikan. Hal ini diperlihatkan

dari gambar 2 yang menunjukkan kenaikan skala pasar dari tahun ke tahun. Tingkat

kenaikan pasar domestik untuk Produk Tekstil semakin menurun sehingga dapat

diperkirakan bahwa pasar domestik Korea Selatan sedang jenuh dan butuh inovasi produk.

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KOFOTI, salah satu federasi tekstil di Korea Selatan, terus mengadakan program / acara

untuk meningkatkan gairah pasar domestik untuk produk tekstil.

Kenaikan skala pasar produk tekstil dan penurunan tingkat pertumbuhan diiringi

dengan posisi Korea Selatan sebagai negara pengimport pakaian jadi dengan pertumbuhan

pasar ketiga tercepat di Asia (Gambar 3) dengan Compounded Annual Growth Rate (CAGR)

untuk impor pakaian jadi Korea Selatan sebesar 12%. Sesuai dengan data yang dipaparkan

pada sebelumnya tentang pertumbuhan produk global SPA yang telah memasuki Korea

Selatan, pertumbuhan import tekstil dapat menjadi sebuah tantangan besar bagi negara

Korea Selatan sendiri untuk meningkatkan produk dalam negeri.

Gambar 2.6 Pasar import pakaian Korea dan perkembangannya relatif terhadap negara-

negara di Asia (tahun 2007) dan Compounded Annual Growth Rate (CAGR)

3. Pertumbuhan Fesyen Merek Mewah di Korea Selatan

Pertumbuhan merek mewah sangat berpengaruh dengan pertumbuhan tekstil

maupun pakaian jadi. Pertumbuhan ini menunjukkan bahwa tekstil ataupun produk pakaian

jadi telah menjadi suatu simbol sebagai penunjuk status sosial seseorang. Oleh karena itu

seseorangpun tidak akan sungkan untuk mengeluarkan bugjet banyak untuk membeli

barang tersebut. Sebelum membahas mengenai pertumbuhan luxury brand di Korea

Selatan, dibawah ini terdapat data mengenai penjualan retail untuk produk tekstil, baik itu

pakaian, sepatu dan juga produk kulit.

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Tabel 2.4 Data Penjualan produk TPT di Korea Selatan 2011 – 2014

Tabel 2.5 Data Penjualan Perusahaan Fesyen Merek Mewah di Korea Selatan 2010

4. Pertumbuhan ekonomi dan kawasan fesyen utama di Korea Selatan

Beberapa kawasan utama untuk produk fesyen telah menjadi sorotan retailer utama

dari produk global SPA. Garosu-gil, sebuah distrik pakaian jadi terkenal di Sinsa-dong, telah

menjadi area yang diminati toko fesyen baik merek lokal maupun global. Nama jalan

tersebut, yang secara harafiah berarti Barisan Pohon (Tree Lined) menyediakan tempat yang

menarik untuk konsumen dan merek baru yang ingin masuk ke pasar Korea Selatan. Fesyen

global dan merek jam tangan, FOSSIL, telah membuka toko pertama mereka di Garosu-gil.

Beberapa waktu ini, ZARA dan merek Specialty retailer of Private label Apparel (SPA) dari

Perusahaan Samsung Cheil (8 SECONDS) juga telah membuka toko di area tersebut. La coste

dan Forever 21 (retailer Amerika Serikat) telah berkembang pesat dengan kehadiran mereka

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di Seoul bagian Selatan dekat Apgujeong, sebuah area yang menjadi simbol kekayaan, kaum

muda dan konsumen trendy. Bangunan di jalanan banyak digunakan sebagai kedai kopi dan

butik kecil di lantai 1 dan restoran di lantai 2. Saat ini, para retailer mengusir para tenant

kecil dan menggunakan bangunan secara keseluruhan untuk toko mereka. Dengan

kompetisi yang semakin tinggi untuk area kosong sepanjang jalan, harga sewa semakin

meningkat dan lokasi tersebut menjadi tempat yang harus dihuni untuk memamerkan

merek mereka.

Selain itu juga merek fesyen ternama asal Inggris, Burberry telah membuka toko di

area Chungdamdong. Sedangkan perusahaan Cartier akan merenovasi toko mereka di area

tersebut pada tahun 2015.

Tabel 2.6 Indikator Ekonomi dan Biaya Sewa Retail Utama bulan Maret 2012

Tabel 2.7 Indikator Ekonomi dan Biaya Sewa Retail Utama bulan Juni 2015

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Dua tabel diatas menunjukkan peningkatan harga sewa tenan di area-area pertokoan

terkenal di Seoul, antara lain Myeong-dong, Gangnam dan Garosu-gil. Terlihat dari data di

Tabel 2.6 dan tabel 2.7, harga sewa tenan di area Garosu-gil mengalami peningkatan yang

signifikan (32%) dibandingkan kawasan lain dengan basis Quarter-On-Quarter (QoQ) pada

tahun 2012.

2.3. Tren Impor TPT di Korea Selatan

Tren impor Korea Selatan untuk produk HS TPT dalam 5 (lima) tahun terakhir

menunjukkan peningkatan dan juga penurunan. Ada beberapa produk TPT yang dalam 5

(lima) tahun terakhir selalu mengalami penurunan, ada juga yang selalu mengalami

peningkatan.

Tabel – tabel dibawah ini memberikan informasi mengenai nilai impor Korea Selatan

untuk produk TPT secara detail dari tahun 2011 hingga 2015.

Tabel 2.8 Nilai impor HS 50 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Untuk produk HS 50, nilai impor Korea Selatan dari tahun 2011 hingga 2015 selalu

mengalami penurunan. Untuk produk HS 50 ini, Korea Selatan banyak mengimpor dari Cina.

Bahkan impor dari Cina memberi kontribusi hingga lebih dari 90 persen dari total impor

Korea Selatan setiap tahunnya.

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Tabel 2.9 Nilai impor HS 51 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Produk TPT HS 51 ini, impor Korea Selatan mengalami peningkatan dan juga

penurunan. Peningkatan terjadi pada tahun 2013 dan 2015. Sedangkan penurunan nilai

impor terjadi pada tahun 2012 dan 2014. Sedangkan untuk produk HS 52, impor Korea

Selatan dalam 5 (lima) tahun terakhir, cenderung mengalami penurunan. Pada tahun 2011,

nilai impor Korea Selatan mencapai US$ 2,3 miliar, turun menjadi US$ 1,3 miliar pada tahun

2015. Cina masih menjadi negara yang memberikan kontribusi terbesar terhadap impor

Korea Selatan untuk produk HS 51 dan 52. Indonesia sendiri berada pada posisi ke-8

(delapan) sebagai negara pengekspor produk HS 52.

Tabel 2.10 Nilai impor HS 52 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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Tabel 2.11 Nilai impor HS 53 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Untuk produk HS 53 dalam 5 (lima) tahun terakhir, impor Korea Selatan

memperlihatkan tren peningkatan walaupun terjadi penurunan pada tahun 2012. Namun di

tahun – tahun berikutnya nilai impor Korea Setan mengalami peningkatan. Untuk Indonesia

sendiri juga terjadi peningkatan ekspor HS 53 ke Korea Selatan pada tahun 2015.

Indonesia juga mengalami peningkatan ekspor produk HS 54 pada tahun 2015. Nilai

impor Korea Selatan untuk produk HS 54 ini mengalami penurunan dari US$ 1,2 miliar pada

tahun 2014 menjadi US$ 1,09 miliar pada tahun 2015. Untuk produk HS 53 dan 54 ini, Cina

masih menjadi negara utama Korea Selatan dalam melakukan impor.

Tabel 2.12 Nilai impor HS 54 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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Tabel 2.13 Nilai impor HS 55 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Untuk produk HS 55 dalam 5 (lima) tahun terakhir, impor Korea Selatan mengalami

penurunan setiap tahunnya. Begitu juga dengan nilai impor Korea Selatan dari Indonesia

yang mengalami penurunan. Untuk produk HS 55 ini, Indonesia sendiri berada di posisi ke-2

(dua) sebagai negara pengekspor.

Sedangkan untuk produk HS 56, nilai impor Korea Selatan setiap tahunnya

mengalami peningkatan. Namun ekspor Indonesia untuk produk HS ini mengalami

penurunan. Cina masih menjadi negara tujuan utama Korea Selatan dalam melakukan impor

produk HS 55 dan 56.

Tabel 2.14 Nilai impor HS 56 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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Tabel 2.15 Nilai impor HS 59 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Untuk produk HS 59 dalam 5 (lima) tahun terakhir, impor Korea Selatan mengalami

penurunan setiap tahunnya. Indonesia sendiri berada di posisi ke-2 (dua) sebagai negara

pengekspor namun nilai impor Korea Selatan juga mengalami penurunan setiap tahunnya.

Sedangkan untuk produk HS 60, nilai impor Korea Selatan mengalami penurunan

pada tahun 2012, namun pada tahun – tahun berikutnya mengalami peningkatan.

Peningkatan nilai impor Korea Selatan dari dunia ini tidak disertai dengan peningkatan nilai

impor dari Indonesia. Dalam 5 (lima) tahun terakhir, nilai impor Korea Selatan dari Indonesia

mengalami penurunan. Cina masih merupakan negara tujuan utama Korea Selatan dalam

melakukan impor produk HS 59 dan 60.

Tabel 2.16 Nilai impor HS 60 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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Tabel 2.17 Nilai impor HS 61 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Nilai impor Korea Selatan dari Dunia untuk produk HS 61 dalam 5 (lima) tahun

terakhir mengalami peningkatan setiap tahunnya. Begitu juga nilai impor Korea Selatan dari

Indonesia yang mengalami peningkatan setiap tahunnya dalam 5 (lima) tahun terakhir.

Indonesia sendiri berada di posisi ke-3 (tiga) sebagai negara pengekspor di bawah Cina dan

Viet Nam.

Sedangkan untuk produk HS 62, nilai impor Korea Selatan dari Dunia mengalami

peningkatan dari tahun 2011 hingga 2014, namun pada tahun 2015 terjadi penurunan nilai

impor. Hal yang sama juga terjadi pada nilai impor dari Indonesia, dimana terjadi

peningkatan dari tahun 2011 hingga 2014 naum pada tahun 2015 mengalami penurunan.

Untuk produk HS 62 ini, Indonesia berada pada posisi ke-4 (empat) sebagai negara

pengekspor di bawah Cina, Viet Nam dan Myanmar.

Tabel 2.18 Nilai impor HS 62 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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Tabel 2.19 Nilai impor HS 63 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Sedangkan untuk produk HS 63, nilai impor Korea Selatan dari Dunia mengalami

peningkatan dari tahun 2011 hingga 2014, namun pada tahun 2015 terjadi penurunan nilai

impor. Untuk produk HS 63 ini, Cina adalah negara tujuan Korea Selatan dalam melakukan

impor.

Tabel – tabel dibawah ini menginformasikan mengenai perbandingan nilai impor

Korea Selatan dari Indonesia dan nilai impor dari Dunia.

Tabel 2.20 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 50 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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Tabel 2.21 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 51 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Tabel 2.22 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 52 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Tabel 2.23 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 53 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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Tabel 2.24 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 54 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Tabel 2.25 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 55 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Tabel 2.26 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 56 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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Tabel 2.27 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 59 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Tabel 2.28 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 60 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Tabel 2.29 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 61 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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Tabel 2.30 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 62 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

Tabel 2.31 Perbandingan Nilai impor HS 63 Korea Selatan Tahun 2011 – 2015

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2.4. Kebijakan Tariff

Berdasarkan kebijakan ASEAN - Korea FTA, tarif untuk produk TPT dari Indonesia

adalah sebagai berikut :

Tabel 2.32 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 50 berdasarkan FTA

Tabel 2.33 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 51 berdasarkan FTA

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Tabel 2.34 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 52 berdasarkan FTA

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Tabel 2.35 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS53 berdasarkan FTA

Tabel 2.36 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 54 berdasarkan FTA

Tabel 2.37 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 55 berdasarkan FTA

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Tabel 2.38 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 56 berdasarkan FTA

Tabel 2.39 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 59 berdasarkan FTA

Tabel 2.40 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 60 berdasarkan FTA

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Tabel 2.41 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 61 berdasarkan FTA

Tabel 2.42 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 62 berdasarkan FTA

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Tabel 2.43 Pengenaan Tariff Produk HS 63 berdasarkan FTA

2.5. Strategi Bersaing dan Memasuki Pasar

Untuk masuk ke pasar Korea Selatan memiliki tantangan tersendiri. Oleh karena itu

strategi yang efektif diperlukan oleh pengusaha Indonesia untuk mengatasi tantangan

tersebut. Beberapa strategi yang dapat dilakukan antara lain adalah :

A. Melakukan Kerja sama dengan Perusahaan Lokal

Melakukan kerja sama dengan perusahaan lokal merupakan salah satu strategi untuk

bisa masuk ke pasar Korea Selatan, selain kerjasama dengan perusahaan lokal, strategi

lain yang dapat dilakukan antara lain adalah :

Direct Entry

Sebuah tenan perlu menyiapkan toko sendiri di sebuah department store, di jalan

atau di pusat perbelanjaan.

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Joint Venture

Sebuah perusahaan dapat membuat persetujuan joint venture dengan retailer lokal.

Secara umum ada 3 pemain utama department store di Korea Selatan (Lotte

Shopping, Shinsaegae, Hyundai Department Store Group)

Franchise

Perusahaan asing dapat masuk ke Korea Selatan dengan membuat perjanjian

kerjasama franchise dengan lokal retailer atau pusat grosir.

Agent / Distributor

Penjualan dilakukan melalui agen atau distributor yang akan mendistribusikan

merek. Biasanya, hal ini dilakukan oleh perusahaan skala kecil atau menengah

dengan portfolio merek yang berbeda-beda.

Direct Sales

Perusahaan bisa melakukan penjualan langsung dengan mendirikan retail individu.

B. Meningkatkan kualitas produk

Korea Selatan memberlakukan peraturan yang ketat dalam memutuskan produk

impor, seperti :

Kualitas bahan baku

Keamanan produk

Proses produksi

C. Mencari informasi terkini dari organisasi terkait di Korea Selatan

Asosiasi di Korea Selatan yang berhubungan dengan produk TPT adalah

Korea Textile Trade Association http://www.textra.or.kr/

Korea Textile Machinery Association http://www.kotma.org

Korea Federation of Textile Industries http://www.kofoti.or.kr/

Korea Textile Center http://www.ktcin.com/

Directory of Korean Textile Industry http://eng.koreatextile.org

Korea Textile Development Institute (KTDI) http://www.textile.or.kr

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D. Berpartisipasi dalam berbagai pameran

Pengusaha Indonesia perlu mencari informasi mengenai pameran yang

berhubungan dengan komoditas mereka, baik itu di dalam negeri maupun di luar

negeri. Kemudian yang harus dilakukan adalah mendaftar untuk ikut berpartisipasi di

pameran tersebut, baik sebagai exhibitor maupun hanya sebagai visitor. Pameran yang

berhubungan dengan produk TPT antara lain adalah :

Korea Style Week (Januari)

Korea International Textile Machinery Exhibition (Maret)

Seoul International Sourcing Fair (Maret)

Preview in Daegu (Maret)

Preview in Seoul (September)

Busan International Textile and Fashion Show (Oktober)

Gambar 2.7 Busan International Textile and Fashion Show 2010

Dengan menjadi peserta pameran, pengusaha Indonesia dapat memperkenalkan

produknya dan menjalin relasi sebanyak mungkin. Dengan mengikuti pameran juga

mempunyai keuntungan yaitu perusahaan terdaftar di dalam katalog bisnis yang dapat

dijadikan referensi untuk perdagangan internasional.

E. Mempelajari budaya perusahaan Korea Selatan

Jika ingin melakukan bisnis ke negara lain, kiranya adalah sebuah aset yang

bermanfaat untuk mengetahui serta mempelajari budaya negara tersebut. Dengan

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memiliki pengetahuan tentang sejarah, bahasa, kultur, cara hidup, terlebih lagi kultur

berbisnis Korea Selatan, akan mempermudah produsen maupun eksportir Indonesia

untuk berhubungan bisnis dengan rekan Korea Selatan. Selain mengetahui dan

mempelajari hal-hal seperti diatas, pengetahuan lebih jauh tentang pasar Korea Selatan

juga sangat penting sehingga dapat memahami permintaan dan tren pasar.

F. Menjalin Kerjasama dengan perwakilan dagang di luar negeri

Pengusaha Indonesia harus aktif dalam mencari informasi mengenai pasar Korea

Selatan, pencarian informasi ini dapat dilakukan dengan cara menghubungi Perwakilan

Dagang Luar Negeri Indonesia di Korea Selatan dalam hal ini Kedutaan Besar RI dan

Indonesian Trade Promotion Center (ITPC) Busan.

G. Memiliki Website perusahaan

Korea merupakan Negara yang memiliki jaringan internet tercepat di dunia dan

orang-orang Korea cenderung untuk mencari informasi melalui internet. Salah satu cara

efektif dalam memperkenalkan produk maupun perusahaan secara global adalah

memiliki website. Oleh karena itu ada beberapa hal yang perlu diperhatikan dalam

menampilkan informasi di website perusahaan, yaitu :

Profil perusahaan, produk dan segala informasi ditampilkan dengan tata bahasa yang

jelas dan harus ada pilihan bahasa dalam bahasa Inggris.

Memiliki e-mail resmi perusahaan.

Perusahaan harus memberi respon dengan cepat apabila ada permintaan dari calon

konsumen baik melalui e-mail maupun media komunikasi lainnya seperti telepon

atau faksimili.

2.6. Analisis Negara Pesaing Vietnam

Negara ASEAN yang menjadi pesaing Indonesia untuk produk TPT adalah Vietnam.

Vietnam pada saat ini sudah bisa mengungguli Indonesia dalam kinerja ekspor tekstil. Pada

saat ini, Vietnam berada di posisi ke-3 sebagai negara pengekspor tekstil padahal Vietnam

masuk ke sektor industri TPT pada tahun 2000-an. Indonesia sendiri masuk di sektor industri

ini sejak tahun 1980-an.

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Berdasarkan dari beberapa informasi yang didapat, di bawah ini ada beberapa faktor

yang menyebabkan perkembangan industri tekstil di Viet Nam berkembang pesat, yaitu :

1. Vietnam mendapatkan fasilitas sistem preferensi umum atau GSP yang lebih besar

dibandingkan Indonesia. Fasilitas itu diberikan Pemerintah Amerika Serikat kepada

negara kurang berkembang atau berkembang. Produk tekstil Vietnam mendapat

pengurangan bea masuk saat produknya masuk ke pasar negara maju. Vietnam dinilai

lebih tertinggal dibandingkan Indonesia.

2. Masuknya Vietnam ke Perjanjian Kemitraan Trans-Pasifik (TPP). Keikutsertaan ini

mengurangi bea masuk produk Viet Nam ke pasar AS, bahkan hingga nol persen.

Akibatnya, harga produk industri tekstil dari Indonesia kalah saing dengan Vietnam ketika

masuk ke AS.

3. Pada awalnya industri tekstil Vietnam hanya di industri hilir, namun kini sudah melakukan

kegiatan industri tengah, seperti pembuatan kain dan benang.

4. Kebijakan Pemerintah dalam menetapkan kebijakan pajak terhadap industri.

5. Upah tenaga kerja yang lebih murah. Berdasarkan informasi yang didapat, upah buruh di

Vietnam adalah US$ 0.74 perjam, sedangkan di Indonesia US$ 0.95 perjam.

Gambar 2.8 Diagram Labour Cost in The Textile Industri 2014

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6. Produktivitas tenaga kerja yang lebih tinggi, dengan jam kerja yang sama. Artinya, tenga

kerja di Vietnam bisa memproduksi barang lebih banyak dibandingkan di Indonesia.

7. Ketersediaan listrik yang murah dari pemerintah.

8. Iklim industri yang lebih kondusif, jarang terjadi demonstrasi buruh. Selain itu juga

banyak insentif yang ditawarkan oleh pemerintah Vietnam untuk calon investor.

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3. Regulasi Produk TPT di Korea Selatan

3.1. Kebijakan Impor Produk TPT di Korea Selatan

Nominal yang dikenakan oleh bea cukai (mulai berlakunya tariff) adalah 150.000

Won Korea. Rata-rata kewajiban bea cukai (tidak termasuk produk pertanian) adalah 8%.

Tarif bea cukai ini terkategori paling rendah dari negara-negara lainnya. Namun, untuk

produk tekstil dan pakaian jadi, tarif yang berlaku lebih tinggi dari rata-rata. Salah satu

alasannya adalah untuk melindungi produk tekstil dan pakaian jadi dalam negeri. Namun

setelah Korea Selatan menjalin kerjasama dalam bentuk Free Trade Agreement (FTA)

dengan berbagai negara, seperti dengan ASEAN, beberapa produk terkait tekstil dan pakaian

jadi tidak dikenakan tarif impor.

3.2. Prosedur Impor (Import Procedures)

Berikut ini adalah prosedur impor ke Korea Selatan menurut laman

www.customs.go.kr.

Sumber : http://www.customs.go.kr

Gambar 3.1 Diagram Prosedur Bea Cukai secara umum di Korea Selatan

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Gambar 3.2 Prosedur Bea Cukai Impor

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3.3. Pengurusan Ijin Impor (Import Clearence)

Seperti yang sudah dijelaskan diatas, Indonesia sebagai anggota ASEAN yang ikut

menandatangani FTA bersama dengan Korea Selatan diharuskan mengikuti import clearence

FTA. Berikut ini adalah prosedur tersebut :

Sumber : http://www.customs.go.kr

Gambar 3.3 Diagram Prosedur Bea Cukai Korea Selatan di bawah FTA

3.4. Standarisasi produk dan Persyaratan produk TPT di Korea Selatan

Korea Selatan memberlakukan standar nasional yang disebut Korean Standards (KS).

Standar ini di keluarkan oleh Korean Agency for Technology and Standard (KATS) dan di

publikasi oleh Korean Standards Association (KSA). Selain itu ada beberapa Standar

Internasional yang dapat menjadi acuan untuk produk impor di Korea Selatan. Adapun

standar internasional yang dapat menjadi acuan tersebut adalah :

- ISO (International Standardization Organization)

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- IEC (International Electrotechnical Commission)

- ASTM (American Society of Testing Materials)

- EN (European Norm)

- DIN (Deusche Industrie Norm)

- NF (Normes Francaises)

Korean Agency for Technology and Standards (KATS) adalah lembaga standarisasi

nasional di Korea Selatan. Sistem standarisasi Korea memiliki dua stuktur, yaitu technical

regulations (mandatory standards) yang dibuat oleh kementrian dan lembaga pemerintah,

dan voluntary standards yang ditetapkan oleh KATS. Korean Standards Association

(KSA) adalah distributor resmi dari Korean Industrial Standard (KS) yang dapat dibeli melalui

laman Korean Standards Service Network (KSSN).

Untuk dapat di impor ke Korea Selatan, komoditi TPT ini harus mendapatkan

sertifikasi dari Korean Agency for Technology and Standard (KATS). Sertifikasi tersebut

berupa tanda KC. Tanda Korean Certification (“KC”) adalah sertifikasi wajib yang harus

terlihat pada produk tekstil seperti yang dicantumkan pada Self Regulatory Safety

Confirmation Act atau Safety Quality Act of the Quality Control and Safety Management of

Industrial Products Law.

Gambar 3.4 Tanda Sertifikasi Standar Korea

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Impor untuk produk retail yang dilarang di Korea Selatan adalah spun silk dan silk

yarn. Kain dengan bahan sutra (silk) dengan kandungan kurang dari 85% boleh diimpor

tetapi hanya dengan persetujuan bank dan persetujuan dari Korean Export Import

Association of Textiles, yang telah menjadi lembaga yang mengontrol perdagangan produk

sutra (silk).

Produk tekstil untuk bayi (di bawah 36 bulan), seperti pakaian luar, pakaian dalam,

sepatu, sapu tangan, topi, kaos, rok, celana, alas tidur, dan lain-lain serta aksesori untuk

anak harus mengikuti standar Self Regulatory Safety Confirmation Act untuk bisa di impor.

Manufaktur dan importir untuk produk tersebut harus melakukan tes pada institusi yang

berwenang. Produk-produk tersebut harus memenuhi standar yang diperlukan untuk

mendapatkan tanda KC dan boleh diimport serta diperjual-belikan di Korea.

Sedangkan untuk produk tekstil yang berkontak langsung dengan kulit, produk kulit

dan karpet terkait dengan peraturan yang ada di Safety Quality Mark Act. Untuk dapat

melakukan impor dan memperjual-belikan produk – produk tersebut dan mendapatkan

sertifikasi tanda KC, manufaktur ataupun importir harus mencantumkan bahwa produk

tersebut memenuhi persyaratan keamanan (lihat Tabel 3.1 dan Tabel 3.2). Meskipun

bersifat individu (self-declaration of conformity) dari manufaktur atau importir dan tidak

diperlukan untuk melakukan tes, jikalau produk tersebut tidak memenuhi persyaratan KC

ketika investigasi atau sampling di Korea Consumer Agency, maka pihak manufaktur atau

importir akan dikenakan hukum pidana.

Selain produk tekstil yang berupa pakaian, alas kaki tekstil juga harus mengikuti

persyaratan tekstil, terutama untuk infant (di bawah 36 bulan), anak-anak dan dewasa. Alas

kaki kulit termasuk dalam persyaratan produk kulit (lihat Tabel 3.3).

Produk tekstil, pakaian jadi dan aksesori pakaian, tekstil peralatan rumah tangga,

produk kulit dan sepatu harus dilabel dengan informasi yang disyaratkan untuk keperluan

bea cukai Korea. Nama negara pengirim harus dicantumkan dalam bahasa Korea atau

Inggris seperti “Made in (nama negara)” atau “Product of (nama negara)”. Semua

persyaratan lainnya harus dituliskan dalam bahasa Korea. Persyaratan pelabelan tekstil

tercantum dalam Safety and Quality Labeling for Textile Products, KATS di bawah Ministry of

Knowledge Economy yang antara lain:

1. Fiber content

2. Country of manufacture

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3. Size (suggested)

4. Manufactured date (suggested)

5. Care instructions (see Korean symbol system in Korean Industrial Standard - KS K 0021)

6. Name of manufacturer or importer

7. Address and phone number of manufacturer or importer

Tabel 3.1 Persyaratan Keamanan Tekstil untuk Produk Bayi

sumber : www.kats.go.kr

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Tabel 3.2 Persyaratan Keamanan Tekstil untuk Produk Anak dan Dewasa

sumber : www.kats.go.kr

Tabel 3.3 Persyaratan Keamanan Tekstil untuk Produk Kulit

sumber : www.kats.go.kr

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Untuk kain impor, negara pengirim harus membubuhkan atau menempelkan secara

permanen pada dua sisi, atau di bagian akhir pada sepotong produk, atau di gulungan

dengan tautan tenunan (weaving), material tipis (leaf), cetak, label atau tag, atau permanent

marking yang lainnya. Negara pengirim dapat menenun informasi lainnya dengan alternatif

lainnya di tepi kain. Untuk wool atau kain wool campuran (wool blend), negara pengirim

harus menandai (marking) setidaknya setiap 2 meter di tepi lembaran kain dengan konten

kain (fabric content) dan nama manufaktur atau importir.

Label bahasa Korea, kecuali dari negara pengirim yang penandanya harus

ditunjukkan pada saat bea cukai, dapat ditempelkan di produk pada area pemeriksaan

sebelum atau sesudah bea cukai. Label negara pengirim tidak dapat direvisi di area

pemeriksaan, kecuali tanda negara pengirim. Label bahasa Korea dapat ditempelkan setelah

barang selesai diimpor. Korea menerapkan persyaratan wajib biotechnology labeling pada

tahun 2007 untuk produk yang mengandung kapas bioteknologi.

Diagram di bawah ini memberikan informasi mengenai prosedur untuk mendapatkan

serifikat untuk produk barang.

Sumber : http://www.customs.go.kr/

Gambar 3.5 Diagram Prosedur Mendapatkan Sertifikasi untuk produk Barang

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Tabel di bawah ini merupakan klasifikasi produk – produk yang di keluarkan oleh

lembaga Korean Industrial Standards (KS). Untuk produk TPT di kategorikan ke dalam major

Fiber (K) dengan sub-majornya adalah General/Clothing/Yarns, Knitted fabrics, Textile

fabrics/Textile, Knitting machine/Industrial textile products/Etc.

Tabel 3.4 Klasifikasi Korean Industrial Standards

Major Sub-major

Basic Standards

(A) General/Radiation · radioactivity management/Guide/Dependability management/Culture/Social system/Etc.

Mechanical Engineering

(B)

General/Machine elements/Tools/Machine tools/Measuring instrument · physical appratus/General machinery/Industrial machinery Agricultural machinery/Thermal apparatus · gas apparatus/Metrology · measurement/Industrial automation/Etc.

Electrical & electronic

engineering (C)

General/Measurement & testing apparatus/Electrical & electronic materials/cable and conduit/Electrical machines/Electrical appliances Electrical · electronic · communication component/Lamp · lighting devices/Wiring · electrical accessories/Semiconductor · display/Others

Metals (D) General/Raw Materials/Steels/Cast Steel and Cast Iron/Copper Products/Castings/Wrought Products/Secondary Products/ Methods of processing/Analysis/Etc.

Mine (E) General/Mining/Security/Mineral/Transportation/Etc.

Construction (F) General/Testing · inspection · measurement/Materials · elements of civil and building construction/ Construction work/Etc.

Necessities (G) General/Furniture · interior item/Stationery · office supplies/Household goods/ Leisure · sports equipment/Musical instruments/Etc.

Foodstuffs (H) General/Processed agricultural foods/Processed marine foods/Etc.

Environment (I) General/Environmental assessment/Atmosphere/Water quality/Soil quality/Waste/Noisy and vibration/Malodor/Marine environment/ Etc.

Organism (J) General/Biological process/Bio-chemical · biofuel/Industrial microorganism/Bioassay · bioinformation/Etc.

Fiber (K) General/Clothing/Yarns · Knitted fabrics · Textile fabrics/Textile · Knitting machine/Industrial textile products/Etc.

Ceramics (L) General/Glass/Refractories/Potteries · clay producs/Cement/Abrasives/Machine structure ceramics/ Electric · electronic ceramics/Ceramic materials/Etc.

Chemistry (M)

General/Industrial chemicals/Rubber · leather/Fats and oils · mineral oil/Plastics · photographic material/Dyestuff · explosives /Pigment · paint · ink/Paper · pulps/Reagents/Cosmetics/Etc.

Medical (P)

General /General medical devices/Equipment used in medical practice/Materials for medical devices /Medical supplies · hygeinic products/Technical aids for disables · elederly-considered products/Electronic equipment in medical practice/Etc.

Quality management

(Q) General /Factory management/Sensory analysis/System certification/Conformity assessment/Applied statistical method /Etc.

Transportation machine

(R)

General /Testing and Inspect method/Common parts/Bicycle/Engine and parts/Car bodies · safety/Electric & electronic system · instrument/Repair Tools/Railway /Motorcycle /Etc.

Service (S) General /Industrial service/Consumer service/Etc.

Logistics (T) General /Packaging/Storage · loading/Transport/Logistics information /Etc.

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Shipbuilding (V) Generall/Hull/Engine & parts/Electric equipment/Navigational instrument/Etc.

Aerospace (W) General/Standard parts/Airframe · materials/Aviation screw propeller/Aviation electronic equipment/Ground support supplies /Etc.

Information (X)

General /Information technology application/Character set · coding · automatic identification/Software · computer graphics /Networking · IT interconnection/IT equipment · data storage media/Electronic documents · electronic commerce/Etc.

sumber : www.kats.go.kr

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4. Informasi Penting

4.1. Perwakilan Korea Selatan di Indonesia

Tabel 4.1 Daftar Nama Perwakilan Korea Selatan di Indonesia

Nama Perwakilan Alamat

1 Kedutaan Besar Korea Selatan,

Jakarta

Jl. Jenderal Gatot Subroto

Kav. 57 Jakarta Selatan 12950

Tel : (+62)-21-2967-2555

Fax : (+62)-21-2967-2556 / 2557

E-mail : [email protected]

2 KOTRA

(Korea Trade Promotion

Corporation)

Jakarta

Wisma GKBI, 21F Suite 2102

Jl. Jendral Sudirman Kav. 28, Jakarta 10210,

Indonesia

Tel : (+62)-21-574-1522

Fax: (+62)-21-572-2187

E-mail : [email protected]

3 KOICA

(Korea International Cooperation

Agency) Jakarta

Jl. Gatot Subroto No.58, Jakarta Selatan

12930,

Indonesia

4.2. Perwakilan Indonesia di Korea Selatan

Tabel 4.2 Daftar Nama Perwakilan Indonesia di Korea Selatan

No Nama Perwakilan Alamat

1 Kedutaan Besar Republik Indonesia

untuk Korea Selatan

di Seoul

55 Yeoeuido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu,

Seoul 150-010, Republik Korea

Telp : (02)-783-5675/77

(02)-783-5371 atau 72

Fax : (02)-780-4280

E-mail : [email protected]

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Website : www.indonesiaseoul.org / atdag-

[email protected]

2 Konsulat Indonesia

untuk Korea Selatan

di Busan

3rd floor Busan Indonesia Center

357 Geumgokdae-ro, Buk-gu, Busan 616-841,

South Korea

Telp : 82-51-808-0041,

82-51-808-0057

Fax : 82-51-808-0041

E-mail : [email protected]

Website : www.indonesiacenter.or.kr

3 Indonesian Trade and Promotion

Center (ITPC)

Busan

1st floor, #103 Korea Express Building

1211-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu, Busan

Korea Selatan

Telp : 82-51-441-1708

Fax : 82-51-441-1629

E-mail :[email protected]

Website :www.itpc-busan.kr

4.3. Perusahaan Importir Produk TPTdi Korea Selatan

Tabel 4.3 Daftar nama perusahaan Importir TPT di Korea Selatan

No Nama Perusahaan Keterangan

1 Dong Do Trade Co. Ltd. CP : Cho Hyun Woong

1487-33, Seocho-dong, Secho-gu , Seoul

(137-869)

Tel : 02-3471-6065

Fax : 02-3471-6067

2 Cosmo Textile Co. Ltd. CP : Kim Jin Ok

123-9, Samsung-dong, Kangnam-gu,

Seoul

(135-878)

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Tel : 02-554-4654

Fax : 02-554-5553

3 Alkoh Co. CP : Cho Sung Jung

164-2, Banglii-dong, Songpa-gu

(138-833)

Tel : 02-418-4440

Fax : 02-418-7859

4 Hando International CP : Lee Byung Joon

Room 701, Seoil Bldg, 746-6, Banpo-

dong, Seocho-gu Seoul

(137-810)

Tel : 02-517-8761

Fax : 02-517-8764

5 Top Mind Co. Ltd. CP : Sangho Han

#401, Uri Bldg, 2-14, Yangjae-dong,

Seocho-ku Seoul

(137-886)

Tel : 02-571-3985

Fax : 02-573-4458

6 Woosung Tunic Co. Ltd CP : Sohn Deok Won

129-4, 1-ga,sinmun-ro, Choungro-gu

Seoul

(110-061)

Tel : 02-312-4762

Fax : 02-312-4764

7 M.F Int'l Co. Ltd. CP : Shin Woon Cheol

3fl, Donghye B/d 1565-3, Seocho3-dong,

Seocho-gu Seoul

(137- 874)

Tel : 02-3471-4051

Fax : 02-3471-4055

8 Jin Seo Co. Ltd. CP : Ko Eun Bong

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Fl5, Samyoung B/d, 637, Sinsa-dong,

Kangnam-ku Seoul

(135-896)

Tel : 02-511-0455

Fax : 02-511-0458

9 Euro Trading Co. Ltd. CP : Shin Yong Keuk

#101, Samhyang Bldg., 82-20, Nonhyun-

dong, Kangnam-ku Seoul

(135-818)

Tel : 02-3485-6500

Fax : 02-518-2138

10 Hanyoon Trading Co. Ltd CP : Piao, Yi

394-7, Hapjeong-dong, Mapo-ku Seoul

(121-886)

Tel : 02-323-7101

Fax : 02-323-7101

11 K.B Dyestuffs Corp Co. Ltd. CP : Kim Ki Wan

#204-2 Taejun-dong, Buk-gu Daegu

(702-863)

Tel : 053-312-9376

Fax : 053-312-9378

12 Bagma Textile Co. 358-74 Galsan-dong Dalseo-gu, Daegu

(711-855)

Tel : 053-582-8130

Fax : 053-582-7820

13 The John Textile Co., Ltd.

2152-12, Daemyeong 3.7-dong, Nam-gu

Daegu

(705-816)

Tel : 053-624-0764

Fax : 053-624-0764

14 Daeyong Textile Co. 267-3 Jukjeon-dong, Dalseo-gu, Daegu

(711-855)

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Tel : 053-563-9232

Fax : 053-563-9219

15 Chunssayo Co. Daesin-Dong Joong-Gu Daegu

(711-855)

Tel : 053-523-7688

Fax : 053-523-7688

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DAFTAR PUSTAKA

Website :

IMF World Economic Outlook (WEO), October 2015

www.kofoti.or.kr

http://www.kemenperin.go.id/statistik

http://www.bps.go.id/

www.statista.com

www.trademap.org

www.foreign-trade.com/reference/hscode.cfm

http://data.worldbank.org/country/korea-republic

http://data.worldbank.org/

www.reportlinker.com

www.kbriseoul.kr

www.kita.org

www.statista.com

http://www.thetexperts.com/trade-policies-barriers-02.php

http://koreajoongangdaily.joinsmsn.com/news/article/Article.aspx?aid=2949359

www.standardsportal.org/

www.customs.go.kr

www.akfta.asean.org

www.tradingeconomics.com

www.kosis.kr

www.kesis.net

www.kats.go.kr

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LAMPIRAN

I. Section XI TEXTILES AND TEXTILE ARTICLES Notes. 1.- This Section does not cover : (a) Animal brush-making bristles or hair (heading 05.02); horsehair or horsehair waste (heading 05.11); (b) Human hair or articles of human hair (heading 05.01, 67.03 or 67.04), except straining cloth of a kind commonly used in oil presses or the like (heading 59.11); (c) Cotton linters or other vegetable materials of Chapter 14; (d) Asbestos of heading 25.24 or articles of asbestos or other products of heading 68.12 or 68.13; (e) Articles of heading 30.05 or 30.06; yarn used to clean between the teeth (dental floss), in individual retail packages, of heading 33.06; (f) Sensitised textiles of headings 37.01 to 37.04; (g) Monofilament of which any cross-sectional dimension exceeds 1 mm or strip or the like (for example, artificial straw) of an apparent width exceeding 5 mm, of plastics (Chapter 39), or plaits or fabrics or other basketware or wickerwork of such monofilament or strip (Chapter 46); (h) Woven, knitted or crocheted fabrics, felt or nonwovens, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with plastics, or articles thereof, of Chapter 39; (ij) Woven, knitted or crocheted fabrics, felt or nonwovens, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with rubber, or articles thereof, of Chapter 40; (k) Hides or skins with their hair or wool on (Chapter 41 or 43) or articles of furskin, artificial fur or articles thereof, of heading 43.03 or 43.04; (l) Articles of textile materials of heading 42.01 or 42.02; (m) Products or articles of Chapter 48 (for example, cellulose wadding); (n) Footwear or parts of footwear, gaiters or leggings or similar articles of Chapter 64;

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(o) Hair-nets or other headgear or parts thereof of Chapter 65; (p) Goods of Chapter 67; (q) Abrasive-coated textile material (heading 68.05) and also carbon fibres or articles of carbon fibres of heading 68.15; (r) Glass fibres or articles of glass fibres, other than embroidery with glass thread on a visible ground of fabric (Chapter 70); (s) Articles of Chapter 94 (for example, furniture, bedding, lamps and lighting fittings); (t) Articles of Chapter 95 (for example, toys, games, sports requisites and nets); (u) Articles of Chapter 96 (for example, brushes, travel sets for sewing, slide fasteners, typewriter ribbons, sanitary towels (pads) and tampons, napkins (diapers) and napkin liners for babies); or (v) Articles of Chapter 97. 2.- (A) Goods classifiable in Chapters 50 to 55 or in heading 58.09 or 59.02 and of a mixture of two or more textile materials are to be classified as if consisting wholly of that one textile material which predominates by weight over any other single textile material. When no one textile material predominates by weight, the goods are to be classified as if consisting wholly of that one textile material which is covered by the heading which occurs last in numerical order among those which equally merit consideration. (B) For the purposes of the above rule : (a) Gimped horsehair yarn (heading 51.10) and metallised yarn (heading 56.05) are to be treated as a single textile material the weight of which is to be taken as the aggregate of the weights of its components; for the classification of woven fabrics, metal thread is to be regarded as a textile material; (b) The choice of appropriate heading shall be effected by determining first the Chapter and then the applicable heading within that Chapter, disregarding any materials not classified in that Chapter; (c) When both Chapters 54 and 55 are involved with any other Chapter, Chapters 54 and 55 are to be treated as a single Chapter; (d) Where a Chapter or a heading refers to goods of different textile materials, such materials are to be treated as a single textile material. (C) The provisions of paragraphs (A) and (B) above apply also to the yarns referred to in Note 3, 4, 5 or 6 below.

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3.- (A) For the purposes of this Section, and subject to the exceptions in paragraph (B) below, yarns (single, multiple (folded) or cabled) of the following descriptions are to be treated as “ twine, cordage, ropes and cables ” : (a) Of silk or waste silk, measuring more than 20,000 decitex; (b) Of man-made fibres (including yarn of two or more monofilaments of Chapter 54), measuring more than 10,000 decitex; (c) Of true hemp or flax : (i) Polished or glazed, measuring 1,429 decitex or more; or (ii) Not polished or glazed, measuring more than 20,000 decitex; (d) Of coir, consisting of three or more plies; (e) Of other vegetable fibres, measuring more than 20,000 decitex; or (f) Reinforced with metal thread. (B) Exceptions : (a) Yarn of wool or other animal hair and paper yarn, other than yarn reinforced with metal thread; (b) Man-made filament tow of Chapter 55 and multifilament yarn without twist or with a twist of less than 5 turns per metre of Chapter 54; (c) Silk worm gut of heading 50.06, and monofilaments of Chapter 54; (d) Metallised yarn of heading 56.05; yarn reinforced with metal thread is subject to paragraph (A) (f) above; and (e) Chenille yarn, gimped yarn and loop wale-yarn of heading 56.06. 4.- (A) For the purposes of Chapters 50, 51, 52, 54 and 55, the expression “ put up for retail sale ” in relation to yarn means, subject to the exceptions in paragraph (B) below, yarn (single, multiple (folded) or cabled) put up : (a) On cards, reels, tubes or similar supports, of a weight (including support) not exceeding : (i) 85 g in the case of silk, waste silk or man-made filaments; or

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(ii) 125 g in other cases; (b) In balls, hanks or skeins of a weight not exceeding : (i) 85 g in the case of man-made filament yarn of less than 3,000 decitex, silk or silk waste; ( ii) 125 g in the case of all other yarns of less than 2,000 decitex; or (iii) 500 g in other cases. (c) In hanks or skeins comprising several smaller hanks or skeins separated by dividing threads which render them independent one of the other, each of uniform weight not exceeding : (i) 85 g in the case of silk, waste silk or man-made filaments; or (ii) 125 g in other cases. (B) Exceptions : (a) Single yarn of any textile material, except : (i) Single yarn of wool or fine animal hair, unbleached; and (ii) Single yarn of wool or fine animal hair, bleached, dyed or printed, measuring more than 5,000 decitex; (b) Multiple (folded) or cabled yarn, unbleached : (i) Of silk or waste silk, however put up; or (ii) Of other textile material except wool or fine animal hair, in hanks or skeins; (c) Multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of silk or waste silk, bleached, dyed or printed, measuring 133 decitex or less; and (d) Single, multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of any textile material : (i) In cross-reeled hanks or skeins; or (ii) Put up on supports or in some other manner indicating its use in the textile industry (for example, on cops, twisting mill tubes, pirns, conical bobbins or spindles, or reeled in the form of cocoons for embroidery looms). 5.- For the purposes of headings 52.04, 54.01 and 55.08, the expression “ sewing thread ” means multiple (folded) or cabled yarn :

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(a) Put up on supports (for example, reels, tubes) of a weight (including support) not exceeding 1,000 g; (b) Dressed for use as sewing thread; and (c) With a final “ Z ” twist. 6.- For the purposes of this Section, the expression “ high tenacity yarn ” means yarn having a tenacity, expressed in cN/tex (centinewtons per tex), greater than the following : Single yarn of nylon or other polyamides, or of polyesters ......................................................... 60 cN/tex Multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of nylon or other polyamides, or of polyesters .................... 53 cN/tex Single, multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of viscose rayon ........................................................... 27 cN/tex. 7.- For the purposes of this Section, the expression “ made up ” means : (a) Cut otherwise than into squares or rectangles; (b) Produced in the finished state, ready for use (or merely needing separation by cutting dividing threads) without sewing or other working (for example, certain dusters, towels, table cloths, scarf squares, blankets); (c) Cut to size and with at least one heat-sealed edge with a visibly tapered or compressed border and the other edges treated as described in any other subparagraph of this Note, but excluding fabrics the cut edges of which have been prevented from unravelling by hot cutting or by other simple means; (d) Hemmed or with rolled edges, or with a knotted fringe at any of the edges, but excluding fabrics the cut edges of which have been prevented from unravelling by whipping or by other simple means; (e) Cut to size and having undergone a process of drawn thread work; (f) Assembled by sewing, gumming or otherwise (other than piece goods consisting of two or more lengths of identical material joined end to end and piece goods composed of two or more textiles assembled in layers, whether or not padded); (g) Knitted or crocheted to shape, whether presented as separate items or in the form of a number of items in the length.

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8.- For the purposes of Chapters 50 to 60 : (a) Chapters 50 to 55 and 60 and, except where the context otherwise requires, Chapters 56 to 59 do not apply to goods made up within the meaning of Note 7 above; and (b) Chapters 50 to 55 and 60 do not apply to goods of Chapters 56 to 59. 9.- The woven fabrics of Chapters 50 to 55 include fabrics consisting of layers of parallel textile yarns superimposed on each other at acute or right angles. These layers are bonded at the intersections of the yarns by an adhesive or by thermal bonding. 10.- Elastic products consisting of textile materials combined with rubber threads are classified in this Section. 11.- For the purposes of this Section, the expression “ impregnated ” includes “ dipped ”. 12.- For the purposes of this Section, the expression “ polyamides ” includes “ aramids ”. 13.- For the purposes of this Section and, where applicable, throughout the Nomenclature, the expression “ elastomeric yarn “ means filament yarn, including monofilament, of synthetic textile material, other than textured yarn, which does not break on being extended to three times its original length and which returns, after being extended to twice its original length, within a period of five minutes, to a length not greater than one and a half times its original length. 14.- Unless the context otherwise requires, textile garments of different headings are to be classified in their own headings even if put up in sets for retail sale. For the purposes of this Note, the expression “ textile garments ” means garments of headings 61.01 to 61.14 and headings 62.01 to 62.11. ° ° ° Subheading Notes. 1.- In this Section and, where applicable, throughout the Nomenclature, the following expressions have the meanings hereby assigned to them : (a) Unbleached yarn Yarn which : (i) has the natural colour of its constituent fibres and has not been bleached, dyed (whether or not in the mass) or printed; or (ii) is of indeterminate colour (“ grey yarn ”), manufactured from garnetted stock.

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Such yarn may have been treated with a colourless dressing or fugitive dye (which disappears after simple washing with soap) and, in the case of man-made fibres, treated in the mass with delustring agents (for example, titanium dioxide). (b) Bleached yarn Yarn which : (i) has undergone a bleaching process, is made of bleached fibres or, unless the context otherwise requires, has been dyed white (whether or not in the mass) or treated with a white dressing; (ii) consists of a mixture of unbleached and bleached fibres; or (iii) is multiple (folded) or cabled and consists of unbleached and bleached yarns. (c) Coloured (dyed or printed) yarn Yarn which : (i) is dyed (whether or not in the mass) other than white or in a fugitive colour, or printed, or made from dyed or printed fibres; (ii) consists of a mixture of dyed fibres of different colours or of a mixture of unbleached or bleached fibres with coloured fibres (marl or mixture yarns), or is printed in one or more colours at intervals to give the impression of dots; (iii) is obtained from slivers or rovings which have been printed; or (iv) is multiple (folded) or cabled and consists of unbleached or bleached yarn and coloured yarn. The above definitions also apply, mutatis mutandis, to monofilament and to strip or the like of Chapter 54. (d) Unbleached woven fabric Woven fabric made from unbleached yarn and which has not been bleached, dyed or printed. Such fabric may have been treated with a colourless dressing or a fugitive dye. (e) Bleached woven fabric Woven fabric which : (i) has been bleached or, unless the context otherwise requires, dyed white or treated with a white dressing, in the piece;

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(ii) consists of bleached yarn; or (iii) consists of unbleached and bleached yarn. (f) Dyed woven fabric Woven fabric which : (i) is dyed a single uniform colour other than white (unless the context otherwise requires) or has been treated with a coloured finish other than white (unless the context otherwise requires), in the piece; or (ii) consists of coloured yarn of a single uniform colour. (g) Woven fabric of yarns of different colours Woven fabric (other than printed woven fabric) which : (i) consists of yarns of different colours or yarns of different shades of the same colour (other than the natural colour of the constituent fibres); (ii) consists of unbleached or bleached yarn and coloured yarn; or (iii) consists of marl or mixture yarns. (In all cases, the yarn used in selvedges and piece ends is not taken into consideration.) (h) Printed woven fabric Woven fabric which has been printed in the piece, whether or not made from yarns of different colours. (The following are also regarded as printed woven fabrics : woven fabrics bearing designs made, for example, with a brush or spray gun, by means of transfer paper, by flocking or by the batik process.) The process of mercerisation does not affect the classification of yarns or fabrics within the above categories. The definitions at (d) to (h) above apply, mutatis mutandis, to knitted or crocheted fabrics. (ij) Plain weave A fabric construction in which each yarn of the weft passes alternately over and under successive yarns of the warp and each yarn of the warp passes alternately over and

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under successive yarns of the weft. 2.- (A) Products of Chapters 56 to 63 containing two or more textile materials are to be regarded as consisting wholly of that textile material which would be selected under Note 2 to this Section for the classification of a product of Chapters 50 to 55 or of heading 58.09 consisting of the same textile materials. (B) For the application of this rule : (a) where appropriate, only the part which determines the classification under Interpretative Rule 3 shall be taken into account; (b) in the case of textile products consisting of a ground fabric and a pile or looped surface no account shall be taken of the ground fabric; (c) in the case of embroidery of heading 58.10 and goods thereof, only the ground fabric shall be taken into account. However, embroidery without visible ground, and goods thereof, shall be classified with reference to the embroidering threads alone. GENERAL In general, Section XI covers raw materials of the textile industry (silk, wool, cotton, man-made fibres, etc.), semi-manufactured products (such as yarns and woven fabrics) and the made up articles made from those products. However, it excludes a certain number of materials and products such as those mentioned in Note 1 to Section XI, the Notes to certain Chapters or in the following Explanatory Notes on headings in the Section. In particular, the following are not classified in Section XI : (a) Human hair and articles thereof (generally heading 05.01, 67.03 or 67.04), except straining cloth of a kind used in oil presses or the like (heading 59.11). (b) Asbestos fibres and articles (yarns, fabrics, clothing, etc.) of asbestos (heading 25.24, 68.12 or 68.13). (c) Carbon fibres and other non-metallic mineral fibres (e.g., silicon carbide, rock wool) and articles of such fibres (Chapter 68). (d) Glass fibres, yarns, fabrics, and articles made therefrom, and composite articles of glass fibres and textile fibres having the character of articles of glass fibres (Chapter 70), other than embroidery with glass thread on a visible ground of fabric. Section XI is divided into fourteen Chapters which may be considered in two parts, the first (Chapters 50 to 55) being divided according to the nature of the textile material, and the second (Chapters 56 to 63), with the exception of headings 58.09 and 59.02, covering products without distinction, at heading level, as to the nature of the textile. (I) CHAPTERS 50 TO 55

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Chapters 50 to 55 each deal with one or more textile materials, alone or mixed, at their various stages of manufacture, up to and including their conversion into woven fabrics as described in Part (I) (C) below. They cover, in most cases, the raw material, recovered waste (including garnetted stock but not unpulled rags), carded or combed fibres in the form of slivers, rovings, etc., yarns and woven fabrics. (A) Classification of products composed of mixed textile materials (See Note 2 to Section XI) A textile product classifiable in any heading in Chapters 50 to 55 (waste, yarn, woven fabric, etc.) or in heading 58.09 or 59.02 and of a mixture of two or more different textile materials is to be classified as if consisting wholly of that one textile material which predominates by weight over any other single textile material. When no one textile material predominates by weight, the goods are to be classified as if consisting wholly of that one textile material which is covered by the heading which occurs last in numerical order among those which equally merit consideration. The textile materials may be mixed : - prior to or during spinning; - during twisting; - during weaving. In the case of products (other than those of heading 58.11) consisting of two or more textile fabrics of different composition assembled in layers by sewing, gumming, etc., classification is determined in accordance with Interpretative Rule 3. Accordingly, Note 2 to Section XI applies only where it is necessary to determine the textile material which predominates by weight in the fabric taken into consideration for the classification of the product as a whole. Similarly, the provisions of Note 2 to Section XI apply to mixed products composed of textile and non-textile materials only if, by virtue of the General Rules for the Interpretation of the Nomenclature, they are classified as textile products. It should be noted that, for the application of Note 2 to the Section : (1) When a Chapter or a heading refers to products composed of textile materials of different kinds, those materials are aggregated together for the purpose of classifying similar products containing those materials mixed with others; the choice of appropriate heading shall be effected by determining first the Chapter and then the applicable heading within that Chapter, disregarding any materials not classified in that Chapter.

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Examples : (a) A woven fabric composed of : 40 % by weight of synthetic staple fibres, 35 % by weight of combed wool, and 25 % by weight of combed fine animal hair is not classified in heading 55.15 (other woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibres) but comes under heading 51.12 (woven fabrics of combed wool or of combed fine animal hair), since the proportions of wool and of fine animal hair must, in this case, be taken in the aggregate. (b) A woven fabric weighing 210 g/m² composed of : 40 % by weight of cotton, 30 % by weight of artificial staple fibres, and 30 % by weight of synthetic staple fibres is not classified in heading 52.11 (woven fabrics of cotton, containing less than 85 % by weight of cotton, mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibres, weighing more than 200 g/m²), or in heading 55.14 (woven fabrics of synthetic staple fibres, containing less than 85 % by weight of such fibres, mixed mainly or solely with cotton, of a weight exceeding 170 g/m²), but comes under heading 55.16 (woven fabrics of artificial staple fibres). This classification is reached by determining first the relevant Chapter (in this case Chapter 55 since the proportion of synthetic staple fibres and artificial staple fibres must, in this case, be taken in the aggregate) and then the applicable heading within that Chapter which, in this example, is heading 55.16, the heading which occurs last in numerical order among those which equally merit consideration. (c) A woven fabric composed of : 35 % by weight of flax, 25 % by weight of jute, 40 % by weight of cotton is not classified in heading 52.12 (other woven fabrics of cotton) but in heading 53.09 (woven fabrics of flax). This classification is reached by determining first the relevant Chapter (in this case Chapter 53 since the proportions of flax and jute must be taken in the aggregate) and then the applicable heading within that Chapter which, in this example, is heading 53.09 since flax predominates over jute, the cotton content

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being disregarded in accordance with Section Note 2 (B) (b). (2) Gimped horsehair yarn and metallised yarn are treated as single textile materials, and their weight is taken as the aggregate of the weights of the components. (3) In classifying woven fabrics, metal thread is treated as a textile material. (4) When both Chapters 54 and 55 are involved with any other Chapter, Chapters 54 and 55 are to be treated as a single Chapter. Example : A woven fabric composed of : 35 % by weight of synthetic filaments, 25 % by weight of synthetic staple fibres, and 40 % by weight of combed wool is not classified in heading 51.12 (woven fabrics of combed wool) but comes under heading 54.07 (woven fabrics of synthetic filament yarn), since the proportions of synthetic filaments and synthetic staple fibres must, in this case, be taken in the aggregate. (5) Sizings or dressings (e.g., weighting (loading) in the case of silk) and also products for impregnating, coating, covering or sheathing, incorporated in textile fibres are not deemed to be non-textile materials; in other words, the weight of the textile fibres is calculated on the basis of their weight in the state in which they are presented. When deciding if an admixture is mainly a particular textile material, regard is to be taken to the textile material which predominates by weight over any other single textile material in the admixture. Example : A woven fabric weighing not more than 200 g/m² and consisting of : 55 % by weight of cotton, 22 % by weight of man-made fibres, 21 % by weight of wool, and 2 % by weight of silk does not fall in heading 52.12 (other woven fabrics of cotton), but in

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heading 52.10 (woven fabrics of cotton, containing less than 85 % by weight of cotton, mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibres, weighing not more than 200 g/m²). (B) Yarns (1) General. Textile yarns may be single, multiple (folded) or cabled. For the purposes of the Nomenclature : (i) Single yarns means yarns composed either of : (a) Staple fibres, usually held together by twist (spun yarns); or of (b) One filament (monofilament) of headings 54.02 to 54.05, or two or more filaments (multifilament) of heading 54.02 or 54.03, held together, with or without twist (continuous yarns). (ii) Multiple (folded) yarns means yarns formed from two or more single yarns, including those obtained from monofilaments of heading 54.04 or 54.05 (twofold, threefold, fourfold, etc. yarns) twisted together in one folding operation. However, yarns composed solely of monofilaments of heading 54.02 or 54.03, held together by twist, are not to be regarded as multiple (folded) yarns. The ply (“ fold ”) of a multiple (folded) yarn means each of the single yarns with which it is formed. (iii) Cabled yarns means yarns formed from two or more yarns, at least one of which is multiple (folded), twisted together in one or more folding operations. The ply (“ fold ”) of a cabled yarn means each of the single or multiple (folded) yarns with which it is formed. The above yarns are sometimes called multiple wound (assembled) yarns when they are obtained by juxtaposition of two or more single, multiple (folded) or cabled yarns. These are to be regarded as single, multiple (folded) or cabled yarns according to the type of the yarns of which they are composed. Single, multiple (folded) or cabled yarns may have loops or slubs at intervals (bouclé or looped, slub or flammé yarn). They may also be composed of two or more yarns one of which is folded back on itself at intervals to give the effect of a loop or swelling. Polished or glazed yarns are those which have been treated with preparations based on natural substances (wax, paraffin, etc.) or on synthetic substances (acrylic resins in particular). They are then made glossy by means of polishing rollers. Yarns are designated according to their measurement. Various systems of numbering or

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counting are still in use. The Nomenclature, however, uses the universal “ Tex ” system, which is a unit for expressing linear density, equal to the weight in grams of one kilometre of yarn, filament, fibre, or other textile strand. Decitex is 0.1 Tex. The following formula for the conversion of metric numbers into decitex numbers is applied :

Yarns may be unbleached, scoured, bleached, creamed, dyed, printed, marled, etc. They may also have been gassed (i.e., singed to remove fibres which give them a hairy appearance), mercerised (i.e., treated under tension with sodium hydroxide), oiled, etc. However, Chapters 50 to 55 do not include : (a) Rubber thread, textile covered, and textile yarns impregnated (including dipped), coated, covered or sheathed with rubber or plastics, of heading 56.04. (b) Metallised yarn (heading 56.05). (c) Gimped yarn, chenille yarn and loop wale-yarn (heading 56.06). (d) Braided textile yarns (heading 56.07 or 58.08, as the case may be). (e) Textile yarns reinforced with metal thread (heading 56.07). (f) Yarns, monofilaments or textile fibres laid parallel and bonded with an adhesive (bolduc) (heading 58.06). (g) Textile yarns laid parallel and agglomerated with rubber of heading 59.06. (2) Distinction between single, multiple (folded) or cabled yarns of Chapters 50 to 55, twine, cordage, rope or cables of heading 56.07 and braids of heading 58.08. (See Note 3 to Section XI) Chapters 50 to 55 do not cover all yarns. Yarns are classified according to their characteristics (measurement, whether or not polished or glazed, number of plies) in those headings of Chapters 50 to 55 relating to yarns, as twine, cordage, rope or cables under heading 56.07, or as braids under heading 58.08. Table I below shows the correct classification in each individual case :

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TABLE I Classification of yarns, twine, cordage, rope and cables of textile material.

Footnotes. (*) References to the various textiles materials apply also to such mixtures as are classified therewith under the provisions of Note 2 to Section XI (see Part (I) (A) of this General Explanatory Note). (**) Silk worm gut of heading 50.06, multifilament yarn without twist or with a twist of less than 5 turns per metre, and monofilament, of Chapter 54, and man-made filament tow of Chapter 55 do not in any circumstances fall in heading 56.07.

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(3) Yarns put up for retail sale. (See Note 4 to Section XI) Certain headings of Chapters 50, 51, 52, 54 and 55 make provision for textile yarns put up for retail sale. To be classified in those headings yarns must meet the criteria set out in Table II below. However, the following yarns are never deemed to be put up for retail sale : (a) Single yarn of silk, waste silk, cotton or man-made fibres, however put up. (b) Single yarn of wool or of fine animal hair, bleached, dyed or printed, measuring 5,000 decitex or less, however put up. (c) Multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of silk or waste silk, unbleached, however put up. (d) Multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of cotton or man-made fibres, unbleached, in hanks or skeins. (e) Multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of silk or waste silk, bleached, dyed or printed, measuring 133 decitex or less. (f) Single, multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of any textile material, in cross-reeled hanks or skeins.(*) (g) Single, multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of any textile material, put up on supports (e.g., cops, twisting mill tubes, pirns, conical bobbins or spindles) or in some other manner (for example, in the form of cocoons for embroidery looms, cakes made by centrifugal spinning) indicating its use in the textile industry. * * * Footnote (*) Cross-reeling indicates that in building up the hank the thread crosses diagonally as the hank is being wound, preventing the hank from being split. Cross-reeling is the method usually adopted when the hanks are for dyeing.

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Conditions under which the yarn is to be regarded as put up for retail sale On cards, reels, tubes or similar supports (1) Silk, waste silk or man-made filament yarns Weighing 85 g or less (including support) (2) Wool, fine animal hair, cotton or man-made staple yarns Weighing 125 g or less (including support) In balls, hanks or skeins (1) Man-made filament yarn of less than 3,000 decitex, silk or waste silk yarns Weighing 85 g or less (2) Other yarns of less than 2,000 decitex Weighing 125 g or less (3) Other yarns Weighing 500 g or less In hanks or skeins comprising several smaller hanks or skeins separated by dividing threads which render them independent one of the other (**) (1) Silk, waste silk, or man-made filament yarns Each of the smaller skeins to be of a uniform weight of 85 g or less (2) Wool, fine animal hair, cotton or man-made staple fibre yarns Each of the smaller skeins to be of a weight of 125 g or less Footnotes (*) References to the various textile materials apply also to such mixtures as are classified therewith under the provisions of Note 2 to Section XI (see Part (I) (A) of this General Explanatory Note). (**) The hanks or skeins comprising several smaller hanks or skeins separated by one or more dividing threads are formed of one continuous length of yarn which, on being cut, allows the component hanks or skeins to be readily separated. One or more dividing threads pass between the skeins and keep them separate from each other. These hanks and skeins are often wrapped round with paper bands. Other hanks and skeins of one

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continuous length, or yarn with dividing threads which do not separate the main hank or skein into smaller hanks or skeins of uniform weight, but are simply intended to prevent tangling during processing (e.g., dyeing), are not regarded as hanks or skeins comprising several smaller hanks or skeins separated by one or more dividing threads and are not regarded as put up for retail sale. (4) Sewing thread. (See Note 5 to Section XI) For the purposes of headings 52.04, 54.01 and 55.08 the expression “ sewing thread ” means multiple (folded) or cabled yarn : (a) Put up on supports (for example, reels, tubes) of a weight (including support) not exceeding 1,000 g; (b) Dressed for use as sewing thread; and (c) With a final “ Z ” twist. The term “ dressed ” means given a finishing treatment. This treatment is designed to facilitate the use of textile yarn as a sewing thread, for example, by giving it antifriction properties or thermal resistance, preventing the formation of static electricity or improving its appearance. Such treatment involves the use of substances based on silicones, starch, wax, paraffin, etc. The length of sewing thread is generally indicated on the support.

(5) High tenacity yarn. (See Note 6 to Section XI) In Chapters 54 and 59 there are provisions for “ high tenacity yarn ” and for fabrics made from such yarn. The expression “ high tenacity yarn ” means yarn having a tenacity, expressed in cN/tex (centinewtons per tex), greater than the following :

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Single yarn of nylon or other polyamides, or of polyesters .......................... 60 cN/tex Multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of nylon or other polyamides, or of polyesters 53 cN/tex Single, multiple (folded) or cabled yarn of viscose rayon ............................ 27 cN/tex. (6) Elastomeric and textured yarns. (See Note 13 to Section XI) Elastomeric yarn is defined in Note 13 to this Section. It should be noted that the textured yarn referred to therein is defined in the Subheading Explanatory Note to subheadings 5402.31 to 5402.39. (C) Woven fabrics. The woven fabrics of Chapters 50 to 55 are products obtained by interlacing textile yarns (whether of the kinds classified in Chapters 50 to 55 or those regarded as twine, cordage, etc., of heading 56.07), rovings, monofilament or strip and the like of Chapter 54, loop wale-yarn, narrow ribbons, braids or narrow fabrics (consisting of warp without weft assembled by means of an adhesive, etc.), on warp and weft looms. Certain woven fabrics are, however, excluded, for example : (a) Carpets and other floor coverings (Chapter 57). (b) Pile fabrics or chenille fabrics of heading 58.01, terry towelling and similar woven terry fabrics of heading 58.02, gauze of heading 58.03, tapestries of heading 58.05, narrow woven fabrics of heading 58.06 and woven fabrics of metal thread or metallised yarn of heading 58.09. (c) Coated, impregnated, etc., fabrics of headings 59.01 and 59.03 to 59.07; tyre cord fabrics of heading 59.02 or textile fabrics for technical uses of heading 59.11. (d) Goods which have been made up within the meaning of Note 7 to Section XI (see Part (II) of this General Explanatory Note). Subject tothe provisions of (a) to (d) above the woven fabrics of Chapters 50 to 55, by application of Note 9 to Section XI, include, for example, fabrics consisting of : - one layer of parallel “ warp ” yarns with a layer of parallel “ weft ” yarns superimposed at acute or right angles; - two layers of parallel “ warp ” yarns between which a layer of “ weft ” yarns is inserted at acute or right angles. The essential characteristic of these fabrics is that the yarns are not interlaced as in conventional woven fabrics but are bonded at the intersections with an adhesive or by

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thermal bonding. These fabrics are sometimes referred to as mesh scrims; their uses include the reinforcement of other materials (plastics, paper, etc.). They are also used, for example, for the protection of agricultural crops. The woven fabrics of Chapters 50 to 55 may be unbleached, scoured, bleached, dyed, made from yarns of different colours, printed, clouded, mercerised, glazed, moiré, raised (napped), goffered, fulled, gassed (singed), etc. They include unfigured and figured fabrics, and broché fabrics in which designs are produced by additional warp or weft threads introduced during weaving. These fabrics are not regarded as embroidered fabrics. Chapters 50 to 55 also cover fabrics with their weft threads dissolved in places to give the effect of designs where both the warp and weft threads remain (e.g., certain fabrics which have warp threads of viscose rayon and weft threads of acetate fibres, the weft threads having been partially removed by means of a solvent). ° ° ° Subheading Explanatory Notes. Woven fabric of yarns of different colours Woven fabrics consisting either wholly or partly of printed yarns of different colours or of printed yarns of different shades of the same colour are regarded as “ woven fabrics of yarns of different colours ” and not as “ dyed woven fabrics ” or “ printed woven fabrics ”. Weaves Plain weave is defined by Subheading Note 1 (ij) to Section XI as “ a fabric construction in which each yarn of the weft passes alternately over and under successive yarns of the warp and each yarn of the warp passes alternately over and under successive yarns of the weft ”. This weave pattern is shown diagrammatically below :

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Plain weave Plain weave is the simplest and most commonly used weave. The two surfaces of plain weave fabrics are always identical (double-faced fabrics) because an equal proportion of warp and weft threads is visible on each side. In twill weave, the first warp thread (end) is bound by the first weft thread (pick), the second warp thread by the second weft thread, the third warp thread by the third weft thread, and so on. The step number for this kind of weave is one for both warp and weft. The weave repeat, i.e. the number of warp threads and weft threads required to repeat the pattern, is always greater than two. The closest twill weave is that in which the weft thread passes (floats) over two warp threads. This is a three-thread twill. In a four-thread twill, the weft thread passes over three warp threads. In twill weave, diagonal lines of ribbing formed by the stepped nature of the interlacing points, extend from one selvedge to the other, forming ridges and giving the impression that the weave is diagonal. The ribs may run from right to left or from left to right. A distinction is made between weft-faced twill, in which the weft thread is more apparent, and warp-faced twill, in which the warp thread is more apparent. Both these twills present a different appearance on the face (the right side) from the reverse (the wrong side). However, there is one category of twill, called double-faced twill or cross twill, which has the same appearance on both sides. Double-faced twill or cross twill always has an even weave repeat. The warp or weft floats are the same on both faces; only the direction of the ribs is reversed. The simplest design is four-thread cross twill : each warp thread is raised on two consecutive picks, and depressed on the following two. It should be noted that in headings 52.08, 52.09, 52.10, 52.11, 55.13 and 55.14, the subheadings relating to “ 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including double-faced twill or cross twill ”, because of their restrictive wording, cover only those twills whose weave patterns are given below :

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Denim fabrics of subheadings 5209.42 and 5211.42, however, do not include 4-thread double-faced twill or cross twill, since these subheadings cover only warp faced fabrics (see Subheading Note 1 to Chapter 52). In addition to warp faced 3-thread twill and warp faced 4-thread twill, these subheadings also cover warp faced 4-thread broken twill, whose weave pattern is reproduced below :

(II) CHAPTERS 56 TO 63 Chapters 56 to 63 cover certain kinds of textile fabrics and other textile articles not covered by Chapters 50 to 55 (e.g., pile fabrics; narrow woven fabrics; chenille yarn, gimped yarn, braids, galloons and other trimmings of heading 56.06 or 58.08; tulles and other net fabrics; lace; embroidery on woven fabrics or other textile materials; knitted or crocheted goods). They also include (subject to exclusions regarding certain articles classified elsewhere than in Section XI) made up textile articles. Made up articles. Under Note 7 to this Section, the expression “ made up ” in Chapters 56 to 63 means : (1) Merely cut, otherwise than into squares or rectangles, for example, dress patterns of textile material; articles with their edges pinked (e.g., certain dusters) are also regarded

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as made up. (2) Produced in the finished state, ready for use (or merely needing separation by cutting dividing threads) without sewing or other working. Goods of this kind include products knitted or crocheted directly to shape and certain dusters, towels, table cloths, scarf squares, blankets, etc., with threads along the warp left unwoven or the weft edges cut to form a fringe. Such articles may have been woven separately on the loom, but may also have been simply cut from lengths of fabric which have bands of unwoven threads (generally warp threads) at regular intervals. These lengths of fabric, from which ready-made articles of the types described above may be obtained by simply cutting the dividing threads, are also considered as “ made up ” articles. However, rectangular (including square) articles simply cut out from larger pieces without other working and not incorporating fringes formed by cutting dividing threads are not regarded as “ produced in the finished state ” within the meaning of this Note. The fact that these articles may be presented folded or put up in packings (e.g., for retail sale) does not affect their classification. (3) Cut to size and with at least one heat-sealed edge with a visibly tapered or compressed border and the other edges treated as described in any other subparagraph of this Note, but excluding fabrics the cut edges of which have been prevented from unravelling by hot cutting or by other simple means. (4) Hemmed or with rolled edges or with a knotted fringe (whether or not incorporating added threads) at any of the edges (e.g., handkerchiefs with rolled edges and table covers with knotted fringes), but excluding fabrics the cut edges of which have been prevented from unravelling by whipping or by other simple means. (5) Cut to size and incorporating drawn-thread work. In this connection “ drawn-thread work ” means simply the withdrawing of certain warp or weft threads after weaving without further operation (e.g., by embroidery) on the material. The pieces of material so treated are often intended for further manufacture into lingerie. (6) Assembled by sewing, gumming or otherwise. These articles, which are very numerous, include garments. It should be noted, however, that piece goods consisting of two or more lengths of identical material joined end to end, or composed of two or more textiles assembled in layers, are not regarded as “ made-up ”. Nor are textile products in the piece composed of one or more layers of textile materials assembled with padding by stitching or otherwise. (7) Knitted or crocheted to shape, whether presented as separate items or in the form of a number of items in the length. ° ° °

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Subheading Explanatory Note. Products of Chapters 56 to 63 having a pile or looped surface The provisions of Subheading Note 2 (B) (b) to Section XI apply whether or not the ground fabric is partly visible on the pile or looped side. (III) TEXTILE PRODUCTS COMBINED WITH RUBBER THREADS Under Note 10 to this Section, elastic products consisting of textile materials combined with rubber threads are classified in Section XI. Rubber thread and cord, textile covered, are included in heading 56.04. Other textile products combined with rubber threads are classified, in particular, in Chapters 50 to 55, 58 or 60 to 63, as the case may be. (IV) STANDARD ATMOSPHERES FOR CONDITIONING AND TESTING OF TEXTILES (A) Scope and field of application. The characteristics and use of standard atmospheres for conditioning and for determining the physical and mechanical properties of textiles are set out hereafter for guidance. (B) Definitions. (a) Relative humidity : The ratio of the actual pressure of the water vapour in the atmosphere to the saturation vapour pressure at the same temperature. The ratio is usually expressed as a percentage. (b) Standard temperate atmosphere : An atmosphere which has a relative humidity of 65 % and a temperature of 20 ºC. (c) Standard temperate atmosphere for testing : An atmosphere which has a relative humidity of 65 % and a temperature of 20 ºC. NOTE - The adjective “ temperate ” as used above has been chosen for the limited use of the textile industry. (C) Pre-conditioning. Before conditioning a textile, pre-conditioning may be required. If so, the textile shall be brought approximately to equilibrium in an atmosphere having a relative humidity of between 10 and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50 ºC.

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These conditions may be obtained by heating air at 65 % relative humidity and 20 ºC to a temperature of 50 ºC. (D) Conditioning. Before a textile is tested to determine a physical or mechanical property, it shall be conditioned by placing it in the standard temperate atmosphere for testing, in such a way that the air flows freely through the textile, and keeping it there for the time required to bring it into equilibrium with the atmosphere. Unless otherwise specified in the method of test, the textile should be considered to be in equilibrium when successive weighings, at intervals of 2 hours, of the textile freely exposed to the moving air show no progressive change in weight greater than 0.25 %. (E) Testing. Except for special cases (for example wet tests), physical and mechanical tests of textiles are carried out in the conditioned state in the standard temperate atmosphere for testing.

II. Chapter 50

Silk GENERAL The General Explanatory Note to Section XI should be taken into account in reading the Explanatory Notes to this Chapter. For the purposes of this Chapter the term “ silk ” covers not only the fibrous matter secreted by the Bombyx mori (mulberry feeding silk-worm), but also the products of the secretion of similar insects (e.g., Bombyx textor) known as wild silk. Among the wild varieties, so named because the producing worm has only very rarely been domesticated, the most important is tussah silk obtained from a silk-worm that feeds on oak. Spider silk and marine or byssus silk (the filaments by which certain shellfish of the Pinna family cling to rocks) are also classified in this Chapter. Generally speaking, this Chapter covers silk, including mixed textile materials classified as silk, at its various stages of manufacture, from the raw material to the woven fabric. It also includes silk-worm gut.

III. Chapter 51

Wool, fine or coarse animal hair; horsehair yarn and woven fabric Note.

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1.- Throughout the Nomenclature : a) “ Wool ” means the natural fibre grown by sheep or lambs; b) “ Fine animal hair ” means the hair of alpaca, llama, vicuna, camel (including dromedary), yak, Angora, Tibetan, Kashmir or similar goats (but not common goats), rabbit (including Angora rabbit), hare, beaver, nutria or musk-rat; c) “ Coarse animal hair ” means the hair of animals not mentioned above, excluding brush-making hair and bristles (heading 05.02) and horsehair (heading 05.11). GENERAL The General Explanatory Note to Section XI should be taken into account in reading the Explanatory Notes to this Chapter. In general, this Chapter covers wool and fine or coarse animal hair, including mixed textile materials classified as wool or animal hair, at the various stages from the raw materials to their transformation into woven fabrics. It also includes yarns and fabrics of horsehair, but excludes horsehair and horsehair waste of heading 05.11. As stated in Note 4 to Chapter 5, the expression “ horsehair ” means hair of the manes or tails of equine or bovine animals.

IV. Chapter 52

Cotton Subheading Note. 1.- For the purposes of subheadings 5209.42 and 5211.42, the expression “ denim ” means fabrics of yarns of different colours, of 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including broken twill, warp faced, the warp yarns of which are of one and the same colour and the weft yarns of which are unbleached, bleached, dyed grey or coloured a lighter shade of the colour of the warp yarns. GENERAL The General Explanatory Note to Section XI should be taken into account in reading the Explanatory Notes to this Chapter. In general, the Chapter covers cotton fibres at the various stages of their conversion from raw material to woven fabrics, and includes mixed textile materials classified as cotton.

V. Chapter 53 Other vegetable textile fibres; paper yarn and woven fabrics of paper yarn

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GENERAL The General Explanatory Note to Section XI should be taken into account in reading the Explanatory Notes to this Chapter. In general, and with certain exceptions referred to in the Explanatory Note to heading 53.05, this Chapter deals with vegetable textile materials (other than cotton) at the various stages from the raw materials to their transformation into woven fabrics. It also includes paper yarns and woven fabrics of paper yarn, and products of mixed textile materials assimilated to the products of this Chapter under the provisions of Note 2 to Section XI.

VI. Chapter 54 Man-made filaments; strip and the like of man-made textile materials Notes. 1.- Throughout the Nomenclature, the term “ man-made fibres ” means staple fibres and filaments of organic polymers produced by manufacturing processes, either : (a) By polymerisation of organic monomers to produce polymers such as polyamides, polyesters, polyolefins or polyurethanes, or by chemical modification of polymers produced by this process (for example, poly(vinyl alcohol) prepared by the hydrolysis of poly(vinyl acetate)); or (b) By dissolution or chemical treatment of natural organic polymers (for example, cellulose) to produce polymers such as cuprammonium rayon (cupro) or viscose rayon, or by chemical modification of natural organic polymers (for example, cellulose, casein and other proteins, or alginic acid), to produce polymers such as cellulose acetate or alginates. The terms “synthetic” and “artificial”, used in relation to fibres, mean : synthetic : fibres as defined at (a); artificial : fibres as defined at (b). Strip and the like of heading 54.04 or 54.05 are not considered to be man-made fibres. The terms “ man-made ”, “ synthetic ” and “ artificial ” shall have the same meanings when used in relation to “ textile materials ”. 2.- Headings 54.02 and 54.03 do not apply to synthetic or artificial filament tow of Chapter 55. GENERAL The General Explanatory Note to Section XI should be taken into account in reading the

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Explanatory Note to this Chapter. Under Note 1 to Chapter 54, the term “ man-made fibres ”, when used in Chapters 54 and 55 or elsewhere in the Nomenclature, means filaments or staple fibres composed of organic polymers produced by manufacturing processes, either by : (1) Polymerisation of organic monomers or chemical modification of the resulting polymers (see the General Explanatory Note to Chapter 39) (synthetic fibres); or by (2) Dissolution or chemical treatment of natural organic polymers, or chemical modification of natural organic polymers (artificial fibres). (I) SYNTHETIC FIBRES The basic materials for the manufacture of these fibres are generally derived from coal or oil distillation products or from natural gas. The substances produced by polymerisation are either melted or dissolved in a suitable solvent and then extruded through spinnerets (jets) into air or into a suitable coagulating bath where they solidify on cooling or evaporation of the solvent, or they may be precipitated from their solution in the form of filaments. At this stage their properties are normally inadequate for direct use in subsequent textile processes, and they must then undergo a drawing process which orientates the molecules in the direction of the filament, thus considerably improving certain technical characteristics (e.g., strength). The main synthetic fibres are : (1) Acrylic : Fibres composed of linear macromolecules having in the macromolecular composition at least 85 % by weight of the acrylonitrilic unit. (2) Modacrylic : Fibres composed of linear macromolecules having in the macromolecular composition at least 35 % but less than 85 % by weight of the acrylonitrilic unit. (3) Polypropylene : Fibres composed of acyclic saturated hydrocarbon linear macromolecules having in the macromolecular composition at least 85 % by weight of units with every other carbon atom carrying a methyl side group in an isotactic position and without further substitution. (4) Nylon or other polyamides : Fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the macromolecular composition either at least 85 % of recurring amide linkages joined to acyclic or cyclic groups or at least 85 % of aromatic groups joined by amide linkages directly to two aromatic rings and in which imide groups may be substituted for up to 50 % of the amide groups. The term “ nylon or other polyamides ” includes aramids (see Note 12 to the Section).

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(5) Polyester : Fibres composed of linear macromolecules having in the macromolecular composition at least 85 % by weight of an ester of a diol and terephthalic acid. (6) Polyethylene : Fibres composed of linear macromolecules having in the macromolecular composition at least 85 % by weight of the ethylene unit. (7) Polyurethane : Fibres resulting from the polymerisation of polyfunctional isocyanates with polyhydroxy compounds, such as, castor oil, butane-1,4-diol, polyether polyols, polyester polyols. Other synthetic fibres include : chlorofibre, fluorofibre, polycarbamide, trivinyl and vinylal. Where the constituent matter of the fibres is a copolymer or a mixture of homopolymers as understood for Chapter 39, e.g., a copolymer of ethylene and propylene, for the classification of the fibres, the respective percentages of each of the constituents must be taken into consideration. With the exception of polyamides these percentages refer to weight. (II) ARTIFICIAL FIBRES The basic materials for the manufacture of these fibres are organic polymers extracted from natural raw materials by processes which may involve dissolution or chemical treatment, or chemical modification. The main artificial fibres are : (A) Cellulosic fibres, namely : (1) Viscose rayon, which is produced by treating cellulose (generally in the form of sulphite wood pulp) with sodium hydroxide; the resulting alkali-cellulose is then treated with carbon disulphide and transformed into sodium cellulose xanthate. The latter is in turn transformed into a thick solution known as viscose by dissolving it in dilute sodium hydroxide. After purification and maturing, the viscose is then extruded through spinnerets into a coagulating acid bath to form filaments of regenerated cellulose. Viscose rayon also covers modal fibres, which are produced from regenerated cellulose by a modified viscose process. (2) Cuprammonium rayon (cupro), obtained by dissolving cellulose (generally in the form of linters or chemical wood pulp) in a cuprammonium solution; the resulting viscous solution is extruded into a bath where filaments of precipitated cellulose are formed. (3) Cellulose acetate (including tri-acetate) : Fibres obtained from cellulose acetate wherein at least 74 % of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated. These are manufactured by treating cellulose (in the form of cotton linters or chemical wood pulp) with a mixture of

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acetic anhydride, acetic acid and sulphuric acid. The resulting primary cellulose acetate is modified to a soluble form and dissolved in a volatile solvent such as acetone, then extruded (generally into warm air); the solvent then evaporates leaving filaments of cellulose acetate. (B) Protein fibres of animal or vegetable origin, including : (1) Those produced by dissolving milk casein in an alkali (generally sodium hydroxide); after maturing, the solution is extruded into an acid coagulating bath. The resulting filaments are subsequently hardened by treatment with formaldehyde, tannin, chromium salts or other chemical compounds. (2) Other fibres produced in similar manner from the proteins of ground-nuts, soya beans, maize (zein), etc. (C) Alginate fibres. Chemical treatment of various types of seaweed gives a viscous solution, generally of sodium alginate; this is extruded into a bath which converts it into certain metallic alginates. These include : (1) Calcium chromium alginate fibres; these are non-inflammable. (2) Calcium alginate fibres. These are readily soluble in a weak alkaline solution of soap; this makes them unsuitable for ordinary textile use, and they are most often used as temporary threads in certain manufacturing operations. * * * The Chapter covers man-made filaments and yarns and woven fabrics of such filaments, including yarns and woven fabrics of mixed textile fibres classified by application of Note 2 to Section XI as yarns and woven fabrics of man-made filaments. It also covers monofilament and other products of heading 54.04 or 54.05 and woven fabrics of such products. Filament tow, other than that defined in Note 1 to Chapter 55, is included. This is generally used for the manufacture of cigarette filters, whereas filament tow of Chapter 55 is used for the manufacture of staple fibres. This Chapter excludes : (a) Yarn used to clean between the teeth (dental floss), in individual retail packages, of heading 33.06. (b) Products of Chapter 40, in particular thread and cord of heading 40.07. (c) Products of Chapter 55, in particular staple fibres, yarns and woven fabrics of staple

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fibres and waste (including noils, yarn waste and garnetted stock) of man-made filaments. (d) Carbon fibres and articles of carbon fibres, of heading 68.15. (e) Glass fibres and articles of glass fibres, of heading 70.19.

VII. Chapter 55

Man-made staple fibres Note. 1.- Headings 55.01 and 55.02 apply only to man-made filament tow, consisting of parallel filaments of a uniform length equal to the length of the tow, meeting the following specifications : (a) Length of tow exceeding 2 m; (b) Twist less than 5 turns per metre; (c) Measuring per filament less than 67 decitex; (d) Synthetic filament tow only : the tow must be drawn, that is to say, be incapable of being stretched by more than 100 % of its length; (e) Total measurement of tow more than 20,000 decitex. Tow of a length not exceeding 2 m is to be classified in heading 55.03 or 55.04. GENERAL The General Explanatory Note to Section XI should be taken into account in reading the Explanatory Notes to this Chapter. The Chapter covers the man-made fibres described in the General Explanatory Note to Chapter 54 when in the form of staple fibres (i.e., discontinuous fibres) or of certain filament tow; it also covers the products arising at the various stages of working these fibres or tow, up to and including yarn and woven fabrics. It further includes mixed textile products classified as products of man-made staple fibres by application of Note 2 to Section XI. Man-made staple fibres are usually manufactured by extrusion through spinnerets (jets) having a large number of holes (sometimes several thousand); the filaments from a large number of spinnerets (jets) are then collected together in the form of a tow. This tow may be stretched and then cut into short lengths, either immediately or after having undergone various processes (washing, bleaching, dyeing, etc.) while in the tow form.

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The length into which the fibres are cut is usually between 25 mm and 180 mm and varies according to the particular man-made fibre concerned, the type of yarn to be manufactured and the nature of any other textile fibres with which they are to be mixed. Waste (including noils, yarn waste and garnetted stock) of man-made filaments or staple fibres is also included in this Chapter. This Chapter does not include : (a) Textile fibres, not exceeding 5 mm in length (flock), of heading 56.01. (b) Asbestos of heading 25.24 and articles of asbestos and other products of heading 68.12 or 68.13. (c) Carbon fibres and articles of carbon fibres, of heading 68.15. (d) Glass fibres and articles of glass fibres, of heading 70.19.

VIII. Chapter 56 Wadding, felt and nonwovens; special yarns; twine, cordage, ropes and cables and articles thereof Notes. 1.- This Chapter does not cover : (a) Wadding, felt or nonwovens, impregnated, coated or covered with substances or preparations (for example, perfumes or cosmetics of Chapter 33, soaps or detergents of heading 34.01, polishes, creams or similar preparations of heading 34.05, fabric softeners of heading 38.09) where the textile material is present merely as a carrying medium; (b) Textile products of heading 58.11; (c) Natural or artificial abrasive powder or grain, on a backing of felt or nonwovens (heading 68.05); (d) Agglomerated or reconstituted mica, on a backing of felt or nonwovens (heading 68.14); (e) Metal foil on a backing of felt or nonwovens (generally Section XIV or XV); or; (f) Sanitary towels (pads) and tampons, napkins (diapers) and napkin liners for babies and similar articles of heading 96.19.

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2.- The term “ felt ” includes needleloom felt and fabrics consisting of a web of textile fibres the cohesion of which has been enhanced by a stitch-bonding process using fibres from the web itself. 3.- Headings 56.02 and 56.03 cover respectively felt and nonwovens, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with plastics or rubber whatever the nature of these materials (compact or cellular). Heading 56.03 also includes nonwovens in which plastics or rubber forms the bonding substance. Headings 56.02 and 56.03 do not, however, cover : (a) Felt impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with plastics or rubber, containing 50 % or less by weight of textile material or felt completely embedded in plastics or rubber (Chapter 39 or 40); (b) Nonwovens, either completely embedded in plastics or rubber, or entirely coated or covered on both sides with such materials, provided that such coating or covering can be seen with the naked eye with no account being taken of any resulting change of colour (Chapter 39 or 40); or (c) Plates, sheets or strip of cellular plastics or cellular rubber combined with felt or nonwovens, where the textile material is present merely for reinforcing purposes (Chapter 39 or 40). 4.- Heading 56.04 does not cover textile yarn, or strip or the like of heading 54.04 or 54.05, in which the impregnation, coating or covering cannot be seen with the naked eye (usually Chapters 50 to 55); for the purpose of this provision, no account should be taken of any resulting change of colour. GENERAL This Chapter covers a number of textile products of a special character, e.g., wadding, felt, nonwovens, special yarns, cordage and certain articles of these materials.

IX. Chapter 59 Impregnated, coated, covered or laminated textile fabrics; textile articles of a kind suitable for industrial use

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Notes. 1.- Except where the context otherwise requires, for the purposes of this Chapter the expression “ textile fabrics ” applies only to the woven fabrics of Chapters 50 to 55 and headings 58.03 and 58.06, the braids and ornamental trimmings in the piece of heading 58.08 and the knitted or crocheted fabrics of headings 60.02 to 60.06. 2.- Heading 59.03 applies to : (a) Textile fabrics, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with plastics, whatever the weight per square metre and whatever the nature of the plastic material (compact or cellular), other than : (1) Fabrics in which the impregnation, coating or covering cannot be seen with the naked eye (usually Chapters 50 to 55, 58 or 60); for the purpose of this provision, no account should be taken of any resulting change of colour; (2) Products which cannot, without fracturing, be bent manually around a cylinder of a diameter of 7 mm, at a temperature between 15 ºC and 30 ºC (usually Chapter 39); (3) Products in which the textile fabric is either completely embedded in plastics or entirely coated or covered on both sides with such material, provided that such coating or covering can be seen with the naked eye with no account being taken of any resulting change of colour (Chapter 39); (4) Fabrics partially coated or partially covered with plastics and bearing designs resulting from these treatments (usually Chapters 50 to 55, 58 or 60); (5) Plates, sheets or strip of cellular plastics, combined with textile fabric, where the textile fabric is present merely for reinforcing purposes (Chapter 39); or (6) Textile products of heading 58.11; (b) Fabrics made from yarn, strip or the like, impregnated, coated, covered or sheathed with plastics, of heading 56.04. 3.- For the purposes of heading 59.05, the expression “ textile wall coverings ” applies to products in rolls, of a width of not less than 45 cm, suitable for wall or ceiling decoration, consisting of a textile surface which has been fixed on a backing or has been treated on the back (impregnated or coated to permit pasting). This heading does not, however, apply to wall coverings consisting of textile flock or dust fixed directly on a backing of paper (heading 48.14) or on a textile backing (generally heading 59.07). 4.- For the purposes of heading 59.06, the expression “ rubberised textile fabrics ” means

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: (a) Textile fabrics impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with rubber, (i) Weighing not more than 1,500 g/m²; or (ii) Weighing more than 1,500 g/m² and containing more than 50 % by weight of textile material; (b) Fabrics made from yarn, strip or the like, impregnated, coated, covered or sheathed with rubber, of heading 56.04; and (c) Fabrics composed of parallel textile yarns agglomerated with rubber, irrespective of their weight per square metre. This heading does not, however, apply to plates, sheets or strips of cellular rubber, combined with textile fabric, where the textile fabric is present merely for reinforcing purposes (Chapter 40), or textile products of heading 58.11. 5.- Heading 59.07 does not apply to : (a) Fabrics in which the impregnation, coating or covering cannot be seen with the naked eye (usually Chapters 50 to 55, 58 or 60); for the purpose of this provision, no account should be taken of any resulting change of colour; (b) Fabrics painted with designs (other than painted canvas being theatrical scenery, studio back-cloths or the like); (c) Fabrics partially covered with flock, dust, powdered cork or the like and bearing designs resulting from these treatments; however, imitation pile fabrics remain classified in this heading; (d) Fabrics finished with normal dressings having a basis of amylaceous or similar substances; (e) Wood veneered on a backing of textile fabrics (heading 44.08); (f) Natural or artificial abrasive powder or grain, on a backing of textile fabrics (heading 68.05); (g) Agglomerated or reconstituted mica, on a backing of textile fabrics (heading 68.14); or (h) Metal foil on a backing of textile fabrics (generally Section XIV or XV). 6.- Heading 59.10 does not apply to : (a) Transmission or conveyor belting, of textile material, of a thickness of less than 3 mm;

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or (b) Transmission or conveyor belts or belting of textile fabric impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with rubber or made from textile yarn or cord impregnated, coated, covered or sheathed with rubber (heading 40.10). 7.- Heading 59.11 applies to the following goods, which do not fall in any other heading of Section XI : (a) Textile products in the piece, cut to length or simply cut to rectangular (including square) shape (other than those having the character of the products of headings 59.08 to 59.10), the following only : (i) Textile fabrics, felt and felt-lined woven fabrics, coated, covered or laminated with rubber, leather or other material, of a kind used for card clothing, and similar fabrics of a kind used for other technical purposes, including narrow fabrics made of velvet impregnated with rubber, for covering weaving spindles (weaving beams); (ii) Bolting cloth; (iii) Straining cloth of a kind used in oil presses or the like, of textile material or of human hair; (iv) Flat woven textile fabrics with multiple warp or weft, whether or not felted, impregnated or coated, of a kind used in machinery or for other technical purposes; (v) Textile fabrics reinforced with metal, of a kind used for technical purposes; (vi) Cords, braids and the like, whether or not coated, impregnated or reinforced with metal, of a kind used in industry as packing or lubricating materials; (b) Textile articles (other than those of headings 59.08 to 59.10) of a kind used for technical purposes (for example, textile fabrics and felts, endless or fitted with linking devices, of a kind used in paper-making or similar machines (for example, for pulp or asbestos-cement), gaskets, washers, polishing discs and other machinery parts).

X. Chapter 60 Knitted or crocheted fabrics Notes. 1.- This Chapter does not cover : (a) Crochet lace of heading 58.04; (b) Labels, badges or similar articles, knitted or crocheted, of heading 58.07; or

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(c) Knitted or crocheted fabrics, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated, of Chapter 59. However, knitted or crocheted pile fabrics, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated, remain classified in heading 60.01. 2.- This Chapter also includes fabrics made of metal thread and of a kind used in apparel, as furnishing fabrics or for similar purposes. 3.- Throughout the Nomenclature any reference to “ knitted ” goods includes a reference to stitch-bonded goods in which the chain stitches are formed of textile yarn. GENERAL This Chapter covers textile fabrics which are manufactured, not like woven fabrics by interlacing warp and weft threads, but by the production of a series of interlinking loops. In general, these goods comprise : (A) Knitted fabrics (weft knits and warp knits) (I) Weft knits consist of a continuously winding thread, forming rows of loops lying in the same direction across the fabric, the loops in adjacent rows interlocking to form the mesh. There is free play between the stitches of these fabrics which allows them to stretch easily in all directions; when a thread is broken they tend to “ ladder ”. (II) Warp knits consist of a number of threads running in the direction of the warp (i.e., along the length of the fabric) each thread forming loops interlocking alternatively with loops in rows to the left and right. The loops in warp knits usually appear to be across the width of the fabric. In certain warp knitted fabrics the warp threads are in two series running diagonally in opposite directions to and from across the fabric. These fabrics do not “ ladder ”. If a small square is cut from a warp knit fabric, yarns cannot easily be pulled from any side; when yarns can be pulled from the sample, they pull out in the warp direction (at right angles to the apparent rows of loops). The warp knits further include : (1) Stitch-bonded goods, provided they have chain stitches formed by textile yarn. The stitch-bonding process uses a machine similar to a warp knitting machine which operates with pointed, open-hooked needles (sliding needles) and heald wire. These needles make it possible to form stitches with textile yarns which produce fabrics from a web of textile fibres or one or more layers of textile yarns, or from a ground of, for example, a woven fabric or a sheet of plastics. In some cases, the stitches may form or fix a pile (whether or not cut). Quilted products assembled by stitch-bonding are excluded (heading 58.11). (2) Fabrics made on a warp knitting machine so that the warp consists of a chain of crocheted loops which hold the weft yarns in position, sometimes forming a pattern.

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All the fabrics of paragraphs (I) and (II) above may be of simple or more or less complex stitches; in certain cases they produce an open-work effect similar to lace, but nevertheless remain classified here. They can generally be distinguished from lace by their characteristic knitting stitch (particularly in the solid parts). (B) Crocheted fabrics, formed by a continuous thread worked by hand with a crochet hook to produce a series of loops pulled one through the other and forming, according to the manner of grouping the loops, either a plain or an ornamental fabric of close or open-work design. Certain open-work fabrics have chains of loops formed into squares, hexagons or other ornamental patterns. * * * The products of this Chapter may be made by hand on two or more knitting needles or with a crochet hook. They may also be made on rectilinear or circular knitting machines fitted with small specially shaped, hooked needles (bearded or spring needles, hosiery latch needles and tubular needles). The headings of this Chapter cover knitted or crocheted fabrics, regardless of which of the textiles of Section XI are used to make the goods and whether or not they incorporate elastomeric yarn or rubber thread. It also includes knitted or crocheted fabrics made from fine metallic threads provided that such fabrics are clearly of a kind used for clothing, furnishing or similar purposes. This Chapter covers knitted or crocheted fabrics in the piece (including tubular pieces) or simply cut to rectangular (including square) shape. These fabrics include plain and ribbed fabrics, and double fabrics assembled by sewing or gumming. All these fabrics may be dyed, printed or made of different coloured yarns. The fabrics of headings 60.02 to 60.06 are sometimes teased so that the nature of the fabric is masked. The Chapter does not cover : (a) Stitch-bonded fabrics obtained by picking up textile fibres from a web of such fibres (heading 56.02). (b) Nets and netting of heading 56.08. (c) Knitted carpets and carpeting (heading 57.05). (d) Net fabrics and crochet lace (heading 58.04). (e) Pieces of fabric cut to rectangular (including square) shape which have been subjected to a further operation (e.g., hemming), articles produced in the finished state ready for

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use (e.g., mufflers) and fabrics knitted or crocheted to shape, whether presented as separate items or in the form of a number of items in the length (made up articles of Chapters 61, 62 and 63, in particular). ° ° ° Subheading Explanatory Note. Subheadings 6005.21 to 6005.44 and 6006.21 to 6006.44 Knitted or crocheted fabrics, unbleached, bleached, dyed, of yarns of different colours, or printed The provisions of Subheading Note 1 to Section XI, (d) to (h), apply mutatis mutandis to knitted or crocheted fabrics, unbleached, bleached, dyed, of yarns of different colours, or printed. Fabrics consisting either wholly or partly of printed yarns of different colours or of printed yarns of different shades of the same colour are regarded as fabrics of yarns of different colours and not as dyed fabrics or printed fabrics.

XI. Chapter 61 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted Notes. 1.- This Chapter applies only to made up knitted or crocheted articles. 2.- This Chapter does not cover : (a) Goods of heading 62.12; (b) Worn clothing or other worn articles of heading 63.09; or (c) Orthopaedic appliances, surgical belts, trusses or the like (heading 90.21). 3.- For the purposes of headings 61.03 and 61.04 : (a) The term “ suit ” means a set of garments composed of two or three pieces made up, in respect of their outer surface, in identical fabric and comprising : - one suit coat or jacket the outer shell of which, exclusive of sleeves, consists of four or

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more panels, designed to cover the upper part of the body, possibly with a tailored waistcoat in addition whose front is made from the same fabric as the outer surface of the other components of the set and whose back is made from the same fabric as the lining of the suit coat or jacket; and - one garment designed to cover the lower part of the body and consisting of trousers, breeches or shorts (other than swimwear), a skirt or a divided skirt, having neither braces nor bibs. All of the components of a “ suit ” must be of the same fabric construction, colour and composition; they must also be of the same style and of corresponding or compatible size. However, these components may have piping (a strip of fabric sewn into the seam) in a different fabric. If several separate components to cover the lower part of the body are presented together (for example, two pairs of trousers or trousers and shorts, or a skirt or divided skirt and trousers), the constituent lower part shall be one pair of trousers or, in the case of women’s or girls’ suits, the skirt or divided skirt, the other garments being considered separately. The term “ suit ” includes the following sets of garments, whether or not they fulfil all the above conditions : - morning dress, comprising a plain jacket (cutaway) with rounded tails hanging well down at the back and striped trousers; - evening dress (tailcoat), generally made of black fabric, the jacket of which is relatively short at the front, does not close and has narrow skirts cut in at the hips and hanging down behind; - dinner jacket suits, in which the jacket is similar in style to an ordinary jacket (though perhaps revealing more of the shirt front), but has shiny silk or imitation silk lapels. (b) The term “ ensemble ” means a set of garments (other than suits and articles of heading 61.07, 61.08 or 61.09), composed of several pieces made up in identical fabric, put up for retail sale, and comprising : - one garment designed to cover the upper part of the body, with the exception of pullovers which may form a second upper garment in the sole context of twin sets, and of waistcoats which may also form a second upper garment, and - one or two different garments, designed to cover the lower part of the body and consisting of trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches, shorts (other than swimwear), a skirt or a divided skirt. All of the components of an ensemble must be of the same fabric construction, style, colour and composition; they also must be of corresponding or compatible size. The term

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“ ensemble ” does not apply to track suits or ski suits, of heading 61.12. 4.- Headings 61.05 and 61.06 do not cover garments with pockets below the waist, with a ribbed waistband or other means of tightening at the bottom of the garment, or garments having an average of less than 10 stitches per linear centimetre in each direction counted on an area measuring at least 10 cm x 10 cm. Headings 61.05 does not cover sleeveless garments. 5.- Heading 61.09 does not cover garments with a drawstring, ribbed waistband or other means of tightening at the bottom of the garment. 6.- For the purposes of heading 61.11 : (a) The expression “ babies’ garments and clothing accessories ” means articles for young children of a body height not exceeding 86 cm; (b) Articles which are, prima facie, classifiable both in heading 61.11 and in other headings of this Chapter are to be classified in heading 61.11. 7.- For the purposes of heading 61.12, “ ski suits ” means garments or sets of garments which, by their general appearance and texture, are identifiable as intended to be worn principally for skiing (cross-country or alpine). They consist either of : (a) a “ ski overall ”, that is, a one-piece garment designed to cover the upper and the lower parts of the body; in addition to sleeves and a collar the ski overall may have pockets or footstraps; or (b) a “ ski ensemble ”, that is, a set of garments composed of two or three pieces, put up for retail sale and comprising : - one garment such as an anorak, wind-cheater, wind-jacket or similar article, closed by a slide fastener (zipper), possibly with a waistcoat in addition, and - one pair of trousers whether or not extending above waist-level, one pair of breeches or one bib and brace overall. The “ ski ensemble ” may also consist of an overall similar to the one mentioned in paragraph (a) above and a type of padded, sleeveless jacket worn over the overall. All the components of a “ ski ensemble ” must be made up in a fabric of the same texture, style and composition whether or not of the same colour; they also must be of corresponding or compatible size. 8.- Garments which are, prima facie, classifiable both in heading 61.13 and in other headings of this Chapter, excluding heading 61.11, are to be classified in heading 61.13. 9.- Garments of this Chapter designed for left over right closure at the front shall be

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regarded as men’s or boys’ garments, and those designed for right over left closure at the front as women’s or girls’ garments. These provisions do not apply where the cut of the garment clearly indicates that it is designed for one or other of the sexes. Garments which cannot be identified as either men’s or boys’ garments or as women’s or girls’ garments are to be classified in the headings covering women’s or girls’ garments. 10.- Articles of this Chapter may be made of metal thread. GENERAL This Chapter covers made up knitted or crocheted men’s boys’, women’s or girls’ articles of apparel and made up knitted or crocheted accessories for articles of apparel. It also includes made up knitted or crocheted parts of apparel or clothing accessories. However, it does not include brassières, girdles, corsets, braces, suspenders, garters or similar articles or parts thereof, knitted or crocheted (heading 62.12). The classification of goods in this Chapter is not affected by the presence of parts or accessories of, for example, woven fabrics, furskin, feathers, leather, plastics or metal. Where, however, the presence of these materials constitutes more than mere trimming the articles are classified in accordance with the relative Chapter Notes (particularly Note 4 to Chapter 43 and Note 2 (b) to Chapter 67, relating to the presence of furskin and feathers, respectively), or failing that, according to the General Interpretative Rules. Electrically heated articles remain in this Chapter. By application of the provisions of Note 9 to this Chapter garments having a front opening which fastens or overlaps left over right are considered to be garments for men or boys. When the opening fastens or overlaps right over left these garments are considered to be garments for women or girls. These provisions do not apply where the cut of the garment clearly indicates that it is designed for one or the other of the sexes. Garments which cannot be identified as either men’s or boys’ garments or women’s or girls’ garments are to be classified in the headings covering women’s or girls’ garments. Shirts and shirt-blouses are garments designed to cover the upper part of the body, having long or short sleeves and a full or partial opening starting at the neckline. They may also have pockets, but only above the waist, and a collar. By application of Note 14 to Section XI, garments of different headings are to be classified in their own headings even if put up in sets for retail sale. This, however, does not apply to garments put up in sets which are specifically mentioned in the heading texts, for example, suits, pyjamas, swimwear. It should be noted that, for the application of Note 14 to Section XI, the expression “ textile garments ” means garments of headings 61.01 to 61.14.

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This Chapter also covers unfinished or incomplete articles of the kind described therein, including shaped knitted or crocheted fabric for making such articles. Provided these products have the essential character of the articles concerned, they fall in the same headings as the finished articles. However, crocheted parts of garments or of clothing accessories (other than those of heading 62.12) are classified in heading 61.17. Garments, clothing, accessories, or parts thereof, knitted or crocheted to shape, whether presented as separate items or in the form of a number of items in the length, are regarded as made up articles (Notes 7 (b) and 7 (g) to Section XI). The Chapter also excludes : (a) Articles of apparel and clothing accessories of heading 39.26, 40.15, 42.03 or 68.12. (b) Pieces of knitted or crocheted fabric which have undergone some working (such as hemming or the formation of necklines), intended for the manufacture of garments but not yet sufficiently completed to be identifiable as garments or parts of garments (heading 63.07). (c) Worn clothing and other worn articles of heading 63.09. (d) Garments for dolls (heading 95.03). ° ° ° Subheading Explanatory Note. Classification of articles made from quilted textile products in the piece of heading 58.11 Articles made from the quilted textile products in the piece of heading 58.11 are to be classified within the subheadings of the headings of this Chapter under the provisions of Subheading Note 2 to Section XI. For the purposes of their classification, it is the textile material of the outer fabric which gives these articles their essential character. This means that where, for example, a man’s quilted anorak has a knitted outer fabric of 60 % cotton and 40 % polyester, the garment falls in subheading 6101.20. It should be noted that, even if the outer fabric by itself falls in heading 59.03, 59.06 or 59.07, the garment does not fall in heading 61.13.

XII. Chapter 62 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted Notes.

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1.- This Chapter applies only to made up articles of any textile fabric other than wadding, excluding knitted or crocheted articles (other than those of heading 62.12). 2.- This Chapter does not cover : (a) Worn clothing or other worn articles of heading 63.09; or (b) Orthopaedic appliances, surgical belts, trusses or the like (heading 90.21). 3.- For the purposes of headings 62.03 and 62.04 : (a) The term “ suit ” means a set of garments composed of two or three pieces made up, in respect of their outer surface, in identical fabric and comprising : - one suit coat or jacket the outer shell of which, exclusive of sleeves, consists of four or more panels, designed to cover the upper part of the body, possibly with a tailored waistcoat in addition whose front is made from the same fabric as the outer surface of the other components of the set and whose back is made from the same fabric as the lining of the suit coat or jacket; and - one garment designed to cover the lower part of the body and consisting of trousers, breeches or shorts (other than swimwear), a skirt or a divided skirt, having neither braces nor bibs. All of the components of a “ suit ” must be of the same fabric construction, colour and composition; they must also be of the same style and of corresponding or compatible size. However, these components may have piping (a strip of fabric sewn into the seam) in a different fabric. If several separate components to cover the lower part of the body are presented together (for example, two pairs of trousers or trousers and shorts, or a skirt or divided skirt and trousers), the constituent lower part shall be one pair of trousers or, in the case of women’s or girls’ suits, the skirt or divided skirt, the other garments being considered separately. The term “ suit ” includes the following sets of garments, whether or not they fulfil all the above conditions : - morning dress, comprising a plain jacket (cutaway) with rounded tails hanging well down at the back and striped trousers; - evening dress (tailcoat), generally made of black fabric, the jacket of which is relatively short at the front, does not close and has narrow skirts cut in at the hips and hanging down behind; - dinner jacket suits, in which the jacket is similar in style to an ordinary jacket (though perhaps revealing more of the shirt front), but has shiny silk or imitation silk lapels.

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(b) The term “ ensemble ” means a set of garments (other than suits and articles of heading 62.07 or 62.08) composed of several pieces made up in identical fabric, put up for retail sale, and comprising : - one garment designed to cover the upper part of the body, with the exception of waistcoats which may also form a second upper garment, and - one or two different garments, designed to cover the lower part of the body and consisting of trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches, shorts (other than swimwear), a skirt or a divided skirt. All of the components of an ensemble must be of the same fabric construction, style, colour and composition; they also must be of corresponding or compatible size. The term “ ensemble ” does not apply to track suits or ski suits, of heading 62.11. 4.- For the purposes of heading 62.09 : (a) The expression “ babies’ garments and clothing accessories ” means articles for young children of a body height not exceeding 86 cm; (b) Articles which are, prima facie, classifiable both in heading 62.09 and in other headings of this Chapter are to be classified in heading 62.09. 5.- Garments which are, prima facie, classifiable both in heading 62.10 and in other headings of this Chapter, excluding heading 62.09, are to be classified in heading 62.10. 6.- For the purposes of heading 62.11, “ ski suits ” means garments or sets of garments which, by their general appearance and texture, are identifiable as intended to be worn principally for skiing (cross-country or alpine). They consist either of : (a) a “ ski overall ”, that is, a one-piece garment designed to cover the upper and the lower parts of the body; in addition to sleeves and a collar the ski overall may have pockets or footstraps; or (b) a “ ski ensemble ”, that is, a set of garments composed of two or three pieces, put up for retail sale and comprising : - one garment such as an anorak, wind-cheater, wind-jacket or similar article, closed by a slide fastener (zipper), possibly with a waistcoat in addition, and - one pair of trousers whether or not extending above waist-level, one pair of breeches or one bib and brace overall. The “ ski ensemble ” may also consist of an overall similar to the one mentioned in paragraph (a) above and a type of padded, sleeveless jacket worn over the overall.

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All the components of a “ ski ensemble ” must be made up in a fabric of the same texture, style and composition whether or not of the same colour; they also must be of corresponding or compatible size. 7.- Scarves and articles of the scarf type, square or approximately square, of which no side exceeds 60 cm, are to be classified as handkerchiefs (heading 62.13). Handkerchiefs of which any side exceeds 60 cm are to be classified in heading 62.14. 8.- Garments of this Chapter designed for left over right closure at the front shall be regarded as men’s or boys’ garments, and those designed for right over left closure at the front as women’s or girls’ garments. These provisions do not apply where the cut of the garment clearly indicates that it is designed for one or other of the sexes. Garments which cannot be identified as either men’s or boys’ garments or as women’s or girls’ garments are to be classified in the headings covering women’s or girls’ garments. 9.- Articles of this Chapter may be made of metal thread. GENERAL This Chapter covers men’s, women’s or children’s articles of apparel, clothing accessories and parts of apparel or of clothing accessories, made up of the fabrics (excluding wadding but including felt or nonwovens) of Chapters 50 to 56, 58 and 59. With the exception of the articles of heading 62.12, articles of apparel, clothing accessories and parts made of knitted or crocheted material are excluded from this Chapter. The classification of goods in this Chapter is not affected by the presence of parts or accessories of, for example, knitted or crocheted fabrics, furskin, feather, leather, plastics or metal. Where, however, the presence of such materials constitutes more than mere trimming the articles are classified in accordance with the relative Chapter Notes (particularly Note 4 to Chapter 43 and Note 2 (b) to Chapter 67, relating to the presence of furskin and feathers, respectively), or failing that, according to the General Interpretative Rules. Electrically heated articles remain in this Chapter. By application of the provisions of Note 8 to this Chapter garments having a front opening which fastens or overlaps left over right are considered to be garments for men or boys. When the opening fastens or overlaps right over left these garments are considered to be garments for women or girls. These provisions do not apply where the cut of the garment clearly indicates that it is designed for one or the other of the sexes. Garments which cannot be identified as either men’s or boys’ garments or women’s or girls’ garments are to be classified in the headings covering women’s or girls’ garments. Shirts and shirt-blouses are garments designed to cover the upper part of the body,

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having long or short sleeves and a full or partial opening starting at the neckline. Blouses are also designed to cover the upper part of the body but may be sleeveless and without an opening at the neckline. By application of Note 14 to Section XI, garments of different headings are to be classified in their own headings even if put up in sets for retail sale. This, however, does not apply to garments put up in sets which are specifically mentioned in the heading texts, for example, suits, pyjamas, swimwear. It should be noted that, for the application of Note 14 to Section XI, the expression “ textile garments ” means garments of headings 62.01 to 62.11. This Chapter also covers unfinished or incomplete articles of the kind described therein, including shaped textile fabric for making such articles and shaped knitted or crocheted fabrics for making articles or parts of articles of heading 62.12. Provided these products have the essential character of the articles concerned, they are classified in the same headings as the finished articles. However, parts of garments or of clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted (other than those of heading 62.12) are classified in heading 62.17. The Chapter also excludes : (a) Articles of apparel and clothing accessories of heading 39.26, 40.15, 42.03 or 68.12. (b) Pieces of textile fabric which have undergone some working (such as hemming or the formation of necklines), intended for the manufacture of garments but not yet sufficiently completed to be identifiable as garments or parts of garments (heading 63.07). (c) Worn clothing and other worn articles of heading 63.09. (d) Garments for dolls (heading 95.03). ° ° ° Subheading Explanatory Note. Classification of articles made from quilted textile products in the piece of heading 58.11 Articles made from the quilted textile products in the piece of heading 58.11 are to be classified within the subheadings of the headings of this Chapter under the provisions of Subheading Note 2 to Section XI. For the purposes of their classification, it is the textile material of the outer fabric which gives these articles their essential character. This means that where, for example, a man’s quilted anorak has

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an outer fabric of 60 % cotton and 40 % polyester, the garment falls in subheading 6201.92. It should be noted that, even if this outer fabric by itself falls in heading 59.03, 59.06 or 59.07, the garment does not fall in heading 62.10.

XIII. Chapter 63

Other made up textile articles; sets; worn clothing and worn textile articles; rags Notes. 1.- Sub-Chapter I applies only to made up articles, of any textile fabric. 2.- Sub-Chapter I does not cover : (a) Goods of Chapters 56 to 62; or (b) Worn clothing or other worn articles of heading 63.09. 3.- Heading 63.09 applies only to the following goods : (a) Articles of textile materials : (i) Clothing and clothing accessories, and parts thereof; (ii) Blankets and travelling rugs; (iii) Bed linen, table linen, toilet linen and kitchen linen; (iv) Furnishing articles, other than carpets of headings 57.01 to 57.05 and tapestries of heading 58.05; (b) Footwear and headgear of any material other than asbestos. In order to be classified in this heading, the articles mentioned above must comply with both of the following requirements : (i) they must show signs of appreciable wear, and (ii) they must be presented in bulk or in bales, sacks or similar packings. GENERAL This Chapter includes :

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(1) Under headings 63.01 to 63.07 (sub-Chapter I) made up textile articles of any textile fabric (woven or knitted fabric, felt, nonwovens, etc.) which are not more specifically described in other Chapters of Section XI or elsewhere in the Nomenclature. (The expression “ made up textile articles ” means articles made up in the sense defined in Note 7 to Section XI (see also Part (II) of the General Explanatory Note to Section XI.) This sub-Chapter includes articles of tulles or other net fabrics, lace or embroidery, whether made directly to shape or made up from the tulles or other net fabrics, lace or embroidered fabrics of heading 58.04 or 58.10. The classification of articles in this sub-Chapter is not affected by the presence of minor trimmings or accessories of furskin, metal (including precious metal), leather, plastics, etc. Where, however, the presence of these other materials constitutes more than mere trimming or accessories, the articles are classified in accordance with the relative Section or Chapter Notes (General Interpretative Rule 1), or in accordance with the other General Interpretative Rules as the case may be. In particular, this sub-Chapter does not include : (a) Articles of wadding of heading 56.01. (b) Nonwovens merely cut into squares or rectangles (e.g., disposable bed sheets) (heading 56.03). (c) Made up nets of heading 56.08. (d) Motifs of lace or embroidery of heading 58.04 or 58.10. (e) Articles of apparel and clothing accessories of Chapter 61 or 62. (2) Under heading 63.08 (sub-Chapter II) certain sets consisting of woven fabric and yarn, whether or not with accessories, for making up into rugs, tapestries, embroidered table cloths or serviettes, or similar textile articles, put up in packings for retail sale. (3) Under heading 63.09 or 63.10 (sub-Chapter III) worn clothing and other worn articles as defined in Chapter Note 3, and used or new rags, scrap twine, etc.