Mesin 3 silinder segaris

Mesin 3 silinder segaris, atau lebih dikenal dengan Mesin 3 segaris adalah sebuah Mesin pembakaran dalam dengan 3 silinder yang terpasang sejajar.

Kebanyakan mesin 3 silinder segaris memakai sudut putaran sebesar 120° sehingga putarannya seimbang. Meskipun demikian, meskipun mesin 3 silinder ini bisa mengimbangi satu sama lain, tapi pembakarannya tetap menimbulkan getaran karena tidak ada silinder lawan untuk mengimbangi seperti pada mesin 6 silinder segaris. Penggunaan balance shaft akan menghasilkan tingkat kehalusan mesin yang lebih baik.

Banyak mobil Daihatsu juga menggunakan mesin 3 silinder seperti Charade dan Mira/Cuore serta Daihatsu Xenia. Mobil Korea seperti Daewoo Tico, yang basisnya diambil dari Suzuki Alto 1988, dan versi terendah Daewoo Matiz juga menggunakan mesin 3 silinder berkapasitas 796 cc.

Volkswagen Group juga diketahui memiliki beberapa mobil yang menggunakan mesin 3 silinder seperti yang digunakan di Audi A2, Volkswagen Polo, Volkswagen Fox, SEAT Ibiza dan Škoda Fabia. Mesin-mesin ini berkapasitas mulai dari 1.2L dan bertenaga 64 sampai 88 ps. Selain itu, di mesin dieselnya juga menggunakan mesin 3 silinder TDI 1.4L bertenaga 51-66kW (68-89 hp). Mesin ini dilengkapi dengan turbo dan memiliki efisiensi bahan bakar yang luar biasa.

IntroductionA refined engine should be smooth, free of vibration and quiet. These qualities also help the engine to spin freer at high rpm, raising red line, hence power.

Engine smoothness depends very much on the basic configuration of the engine design - no. of cylinders, how the cylinders are arranged (in-line, V-shape or horizontally opposed) and the V-angle for V-shape engines. In case a less favourable configuration is chosen, probably due to packaging or cost reasons, counter weights or balancer shafts may be used to counter the vibration generated in the price of a little bit energy loss.

Strengthening of the engine block, crankshaft etc. can absorb certain level of vibration and noise. Lastly, the use of lower friction parts can further enhance smoothness and quietness.

Smooth power delivery

A cylinder takes 720° crankshaft angle (i.e., 2 revolutions) to complete 1 cycle of 4-stroke operation. In other words, it fires once every 2 crankshaft revolutions. Only the power stroke (expansion stroke) generates positive power, while intake stroke, exhaust stroke and compression stroke consume power, especially the latter. Therefore a single-cylinder engine generates power in the form of periodic pulse. The below picture shows how the power be delivered:

To smooth the power delivery, all engines must employ a heavy flywheel, using its inertia to keep the engine running roughly at constant speed. Of course, the heavier the flywheel, the smoother the power delivery becomes, but it also makes the engine less responsive. Therefore the pulsation manner of the engine cannot be completely eliminated by a reasonably large flywheel.

Therefore we need multi-cylinder engines. While single-cylinder engine fires once every 2 revolutions, twin-cylinder engine fires once every revolution, 3-cylinder fires once every 720 / 3 = 240° crank angle, 4-cylinder fires once every 180° (half a revolution) .... 12-cylinder engine fires once every just 60° crank angle. Obviously, the more cylinders the engine has, the smoother the power delivery becomes.

This explain why we prefer V12 engines than in-line 6, although both of them achieve near perfect internal balance.

Cause of vibration

Vibration is caused by the movement of the internal parts, especially are pistons and connecting rods. The piston and con-rod move up and down periodically without counter balanced by other means. If the engine is a single-cylinder engine, it will jump up and down periodically as well.

In reality, the direction of vibration is not just vertical. Because the connecting rod is not just travelling upward and downward, but also left and right, there is also some vibration in transverse direction; However, compare with piston, connecting rod is much lighter, thus the vibration generated by the left / right movement of con-rod is also much smaller than the up / down vibration by the piston.

What about multi-cylinder engines? That's much more complicated than imagined. We'd better to discuss case by case.

Inline 3-cylinder enginesAs the engine fires once every 240° crankshaft angle (720° / 3 = 240°), the crankshaft design is as shown in the below picture. (Firing order is: 1-3-2)

It seems that no matter how the crankshaft rotate, the combined center of gravity of all 3 pistons and con-rods will remain at the same location, hence no vibration generated. By mathematical analysis, you can also find there is no forces generated in vertical direction as well as transverse direction. (actually, I really performed such calculations) So why did we hear that 3-

cylinder engine need balancer shaft ?

In fact, the calculation is wrong because it assumes the engine is one point, thus the forces of all 3 cylinders act on this single point and result in complete cancellation. In reality, the forces act on 3 different locations on the crankshaft, thus instead of canceling one another, they make the crankshaft vibrating end to end.

Don’t understand ? look at the above picture, the side view of the engine. Piston 1 is at the top now and is going downward, thus generates an upward force to the left end of the crankshaft. Piston 2 is also going downward, thus generates an upward force to the middle of the crankshaft. Piston 3 is going upward, thus generate a downward force to the right end of crankshaft. As the engine’s center of gravity locates in cylinder 2, you can see forces from piston 1 push the left end of the engine upward while forces from piston 3 push the right end of the engine downward; After 180° rotation, the situation will be completely reversed - downward force at left and upward force at the right. In other words, this is an end-to-end vibration with respect to the center in cylinder 2.

End-to-end vibration (shown here is a V6)

Solution - single balancer shaft

Therefore inline-3 engine is better to be equipped with a balancer shaft, driven by crankshaft. There is a weight at each end of the balancer shaft. The weights move in direction opposite to the direction of the end pistons. When the piston goes up, the weight goes down. When the piston goes down, the weight goes up. Therefore the end-to-end vibration can be counter balanced by the balancer shaft which is driven at the same speed as the crankshaft.

autozine.org

Hi

In my opinion you have a damed "water temperature fan switch", the Charade has 2 different water temp. sensors, the first (mostly good) is to show you the water temp. the other one SHOULD switch on the electric fan to cool the water.

Or the fan itself is bad, but you can check this, you can try to unplug the single cable from the temp. sensor and contact the cable with the body of the car or to the engine, if the ignition is on the fan should start to work, before it does this you can hear a "click" noise from the relais. If the fan works then you should replace the temp. sensor with new one.

The correct temp. sensor is that one how has the flat connector like this

YES, the temp sensor from the charade is much thicker than this, but I only mean the connector...

Firing Order

The firing order is the sequence of power delivery of each cylinder in a multi-cylinder reciprocating engine.

This is achieved by sparking of the spark plugs in a gasoline engine in the correct order, or by the sequence of fuel injection in a Diesel engine. When designing an engine, choosing an appropriate firing order is critical to minimizing vibration, to improve engine balance and achieving smooth running, for long engine fatigue life and user comfort, and heavily influences crankshaft design.

Ignition

In a gasoline engine, the correct firing order is obtained by the correct placement of the spark plug wires on the distributor. In a modern engine with an engine management system and direct ignition, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) takes care of the correct firing sequence. Especially on cars with distributors, the firing order is usually cast on the engine somewhere, most often on the cylinder head, the intake manifold or the valve cover(s).

Cylinder numbering and firing orders for various engine layouts

In a straight engine the spark plugs (and cylinders) are numbered, starting with #1, usually from the front of the engine to the rear.

Notes on left/right and front/rear

When referring to cars, the left-hand side of the car is the side that corresponds with the driver's left, as seen from the driver's seat. It can also be thought of as the side that would be on the left if one was standing directly behind the car looking at it.

Saab B engine, "firing order 1342" marked on inlet manifold. #1 is towards the firewall (right side of picture).

When referring to engines, the front of the engine is the part where the pulleys for the accessories (such as the alternator and water pump) are, and the rear of the engine is where the flywheel is, through which the engine connects to the transmission. The front of the engine may point towards the front, side or rear of the car.

In most rear-wheel drive cars, the engine is longitudinally mounted and the front of the engine also points to the front of the car. In front-wheel drive cars with a transverse engine, the front of the engine usually points towards the right-hand side of the car. One notable exception is Honda, where many models have the front of the engine at the left-hand side of the car.

In front-wheel-drive cars with longitudinally mounted engines, most often the front of the engine will point towards the front of the car, but some manufacturers (Saab, Citroën, Renault) have at times placed the engine 'backwards', with #1 towards the firewall. One notable car with this layout is the Citroën Traction Avant. This layout is uncommon today.

See also: Automobile layout

Mini Engine Removal and Refitting

Although I have typed the following notes I do not take the credit for them. They were largely written in manuscript by Flamey when changing engines on Mildrew. I used them myself when changing engines on my own Mini; Fat Dog, and have added to them in places based on my own experience.

Keithyboy

Notes

1. Before you start, get a big plastic box to put all the bits you take off into. A smaller one with a lid is a good idea for the nuts and bolts you take off. Loads of rags will also be useful for wiping, mopping up oil etc.

2. References to spanner sizes are both imperial and metric. In most cases the fixing are imperial so imperial spanners will be a slightly better fit.

3. Make sure you have plenty of beer in the fridge. You might need it later.

4. Anything which might cause you to shed blood, swear or might otherwise cause you harm is in italics. As is anything which requires particular caution.

Stage 1: Preliminary work.

There is no need to do any of these steps in any particular order but removing the bonnet before doing anything else will stop you gashing your head on the catch.

1. Remove the four 11mm/7/16” nuts and washers and remove the bonnet. Put the nuts and washers back on the studs so they don’t get lost.

2A. remove the air filter housing by undoing the wingnuts on the top of it.

2B. If your car is fitted with a K&N filter or similar it will be held on by two nuts which face the bulkhead. Undo these, taking care not to drop them down the back of the engine, then remove the top cover and the filter from the carb.

3. Remove the grille. This is usually held on by about 8 self tapping screws, 4 along the top and 2 at either end. Chances are, if your car is getting on a bit, they will be a cheery mix of cross and flat head screws.

4. Remove the splashguard (if fitted). This is held on by 3 clips, 2 at the top which hold it to the rocker cover, and one at the bottom behind the front valence. Twist the clips through 90° and pull the guard away.

5. Disconnect the battery. This will either have screws going into the tops of the terminals or nuts and bolts clamping around them. Either way you may have to prise the leads off.

6. Remove the horn by disconnecting the purple/black wire and undoing the 13mm/1/2” nut holding it to its bracket. You may need to hold the horn to stop it turning.

7. Drain the oil (necessary because the otherwise oil will p*ss out when you remove the pot joints from the diff later). It is sensible to use latex gloves or a barrier cream as old engine oil is carcinogenic (gives you cancer). For this reason make sure your hands are clean before you use the little boys’ or girls’ room Dispose of the oil at the tip not down the drain.

Stage 2: Removal of engine components and controls: Again, there is no particular order to follow with this.Carburettor and inlet manifold

1. Loosen the 11mm/7/16” nut on the end of the throttle linkage and withdraw the cable. Once you have removed the cable, tighten the nut up again so you don’t lose it. Tuck the cable behind the brake and clutch master cylinders out of the way. The end of it will hurt like hell if it goes in your eye.

2. Using a 5mm socket undo the choke cable retaining bolt. You can hold the sleeve that the nut screws into to minimise turning. If you don’t have a socket or spanner small enough, you can use pliers here too. Remove the bolt and sleeve and put in your nuts and bolts jar or they will drop out never to be seen again.

3. Remove the fuel pipe from the carb. This will be retained either by a cheapo wire clip that you undo with pliers or a jubilee clip. Having removed the clip, pull the pipe off (some fuel will spill out).

4. Remove the fuel overflow pipe. This just pulls off.

5. Remove the crankcase breather pipe. Again, this will just pull off. (If your car has an aftermarket air filter and inlet manifold, this may no longer be fitted.)

6. Remove the vacuum advance pipe from the carb and distributor and put on your pile of bits.

At this point you have a choice. You can either remove the carb and manifold as one unit or remove the carb first. Removing them as one unit is more fiddly but probably quicker and means you don’t need as many gaskets when you put it all back together. Removing the carb first gives better access to the manifold nuts.

Removal of carb and manifold as one unit.

7. Remove the 6 13mm/½”inlet and exhaust manifold securing nuts. To undo the one behind the exhaust heat take off an angled/wobbly extension on your socket might be needed. A long extension makes life easier but the nut behind the float chamber on the carb is a swine to get to.

8. Remove the exhaust heat take off.

9. Slide the carb and manifold off the studs and withdraw. You may have to slightly bend

the throttle return spring mounting and use a certain amount of industrial language to get clearance.

Removal of carb and manifold separately

7. Remove the 13mm/1/2” nuts and washers holding the carb to the inlet manifold. There may be either 2 or 4 depending and the carb and manifold fitted. Disconnect the fuel pipe and overflow pipe from the carb. Don’t worry about plugging the fuel line as you will be disconnecting the fuel pipe from the pump shortly.

8. Slide the carb of the studs and add to your pile of removed bits.

9. Remove the 6 13mm/½”inlet and exhaust manifold securing nuts. A long reach socket and extension will make access easier.

10. Slide the manifold off the studs and add to the growing pile in the corner.

Alternator

1. Loosen the two top mounting nuts and bolts. These are usually 13mm/1/2” but could be 14mm/9/16” and the 14mm/9/16 nut and bolt at the bottom. Push the alternator down to slacken the fan belt and remove it from the pulley.

2. Undo the metal clip which hold the multi-pin wiring plug into the back of the alternator and pull the plug out.

2. Remove the nuts and bolts and withdraw the alternator through the grille opening.

Starter Motor¶

1. Disconnect the thick brown wire with the red tracer by pulling off the large spade connector.

2. Undo the 13mm/1/2” nut on the end of the motor and remove the thick black wired and two bunches of brown wire. Put the nut back on the stud for safe keeping.

3. Disconnect the white cable with the yellow trace by pulling off the spade connector. All the wiring connections to the motor should now be undone.

4. Loosen but do not remove the 14mm/9/16” top mounting bolt. This will be tight and it is not easy to get at so watch your knuckles

5. Remove the bottom bolt (same size as the top one) then remove the top one. Support the motor to stop it falling then remove through the grille aperture. If the motor is stuck a sharp tap with a block of wood will shift it.

6. Replace the bolts in the housing.

Note: You may find, as I did, that the bolts were too tight to undo with the engine in-situ. If this happens don’t panic. The engine will come out with the starter attached but you might need to remove the horn bracket for clearance.

Distributor (dizzy).¶

Note. It is not essential to remove the distributor but doing so will stop it getting damaged. Even if you leave it on you should remove the cap and rotor arm.

1. Number the plug leads with Tipp-ex and mark where plug number one is attached to the dizzy.

2. Pull the leads off the plugs and the coil.

3. Release the spring clips holding the cap to the dizzy and remove the cap and leads.

4. In the centre of the dizzy you will see the rotor arm. Remove this and put it in your nuts and bolts jar.

5. To remove the dizzy itself, first, clean around it with a rag and mark the both the engine block and the dizzy where it enters the block with tipp-ex so that you can realign it for timing purposes when it goes back in.

6. Loosen but do not remove the bolt on the clamp which holds the dizzy and slide the clamp out of the way. (Note: if your car does not have an A+ engine the clamp will be different. Check your manual for the removal procedure.)

7. Wobble the dizzy from side to side whilst pulling gently. When it comes free remove it through the grille aperture.

8. Plug the hole in the block with kitchen roll, a rag (or you wife’s best tea-towel) to stop dirt or small woodland creatures getting into your engine.

Coil¶

1. Remove the two spade connectors noting which colour wire goes to which connection on the distributor. The connections should be different anyway but may not be.

2. Undo the upper and lower 13mm/1/2” bolts holding the coil clamp to the bracket and remove the coil.

3. Put the bolts back in the bracket for safe keeping.

Clutch slave cylinder¶

1. Undo the two 9/16” bolts holding the slave cylinder on the bracket on the clutch housing. One is very close to the subframe and tricky to get to. A universal joint on your socket will make it easier.

2. Pull the cylinder away from the pushrod, leaving the rod attached to the clutch cover. Tie the cylinder to the brake pipes on the bulkhead with string or wire.

3 Refit the bolts into the bracket.

4. Note. You may need to transfer the bracket to your new engine. If so, undo the 14mm/9/16” bolts on the top of it and the 11mm/7/16” bolt and spacer at the side and remove the bracket. Refit the bolts for safe keeping.

Washer bottle¶

1. Disconnect the two spade connectors.

2. Pull the bottle upwards off the bracket on the inner wing. Empty the water out before it empties itself in your toolbox.

Note: Watch your hands on the bracket, the edges are sharp.

Engine stabiliser¶1. Remove 13mm/1/2” bolt securing the stabiliser to the engine.

2. Remove the 13mm/1/2” bolt that secures the bracket to the block. Put the bracket on your pile of bits.

3. Remove the nut and bolt securing the stabiliser to the bulkhead. You may need to tap the bolt through from underneath. Put the bolts back in place and throw the stabiliser on the pile.

Bottom engine stabiliser. (attached to engine block under the starter motor). This is easier to remove with the car on axle stands.¶

1. Undo and remove the 14mm/9/16” bolt securing the stabiliser to the bracket on the gearbox.

2. Pull the bracket down slightly out of the way and put the bolt back through the stabiliser for safe keeping.

Heater air intake. The big plastic tube thing on the nearside inner wing.¶1. Working under the inner wing, pull the plastic corrugated pipe off the intake.

2. Using brute force and a certain amount of industrial language, pull the intake out of the hole. Don’t worry about breaking it as it is quite sturdy. A fair amount of wiggling and pulling might be needed.

Exhaust Manifold¶If your car is fitted with an LCB you should just about be able to get the engine out without taking the LCB off. I managed to and others have too. However, if you don’t want to chance it, or if it’s mullered anyway…..

1. separate the two parts of the LCB at the Y-piece underneath by undoing the clamps (usually 13mm or ½” bolts but not always).

2. Remove the two parts upwards through the engine bay. These can be a nightmare to get apart. Your swearing gland will really work overtime.

Heater valve¶1. Loosen the jubilee clip securing the hose to the heater valve.

2. Pull the hose off the valve and tuck it out of the way. Some water will come out at this point.

3. Using a ¼” socket or spanner loosen but don’t remove the securing bolt at the end of the heater cable.

4. Loosen the screw on the clamp around the cable sleeve.

5. Remove the cable from the tap and tighten up the clamp so that you don’t lose the screw.

Odds and sods¶Remove the crankcase breather hose from the flame trap (the black cylinder on the timing chain cover and/or clutch housing).

Undo the jubilee clip securing the heater hose to the bottom radiator hose. This might be tight so swearing at it will help. Be careful not to spill water down the flame trap.

Pull the battery cable out of the rubber grommet on the clutch housing and pull though the grille opening out of the way.

Disconnect the fuel pipe from the fuel pump. It’s not a bad idea to plug the line from the tank with a bolt or something to stop petrol siphoning out.

Gear selector removal¶Note: for this job you need maximum swearing capability. Blinking flip will not be sufficient. If vocabulary of swearwords is limited, try to get a coarse Lancastrian to help out.

1. Chock the back wheels then jack the car up and place axle stands under the front subframe. You should never venture under the car relying solely on the jack. Put the car into reverse.

2. Get under the car and find the point where the gear selector shaft and stabiliser connect to the gearbox. The rod connected to the gearlever and the rod which enters the ‘box are joined by a sleeve secured at each end by a roll pin. You need to remove the roll pin nearest the gearbox.

2. The theory is that you use a small bolt, a punch, a nail or some other small implement to tap the pin out of the shaft. In practise you will fart about for ages and the thing won’t budge. Get some light under there, by means of a torch or leadlight, to make sure you are hitting the pin. Once I made sure I could see properly, mine came out fairly easily using a punch.

3. Undo the 13mm/1/2” bolt holding the stabiliser bar just above the selector rod.

4. Remove the bolt and pull the selector rod off the gearbox and lower it to the floor.

5. Go and have a brew and a sit down because it is almost time to start lifting.

From this point, you will need to carry out each step in sequence.

A. Attach your rope or chain.¶There are probably four dozen different ways of attaching the engine to the crane but the following method is tried and tested. When you lift the engine it comes up nice and straight with no tendency to tip. To put it another way, Flamey does it this way and when I did it I managed not to drop an engine on my foot.

1.Attach one end of your rope of chain to the left hand (when viewed from the front of the car) manifold stud. Use a nut and a decent sized washer to ensure that your rope/chain cannot slip off.

2.Attach the other end to the rear alternator mounting bracket on the front of the block. You can either remove the bracket and use bolts and washers or use the bracket as I did.

Note: Be sure to leave enough slack in the rope/chain so that you can lower the engine to the ground once you have removed it. (Guess how I worked that one out!!)

B. Engine mounts¶B1. Driver’s side: located behind the wheel. Wire brush the nuts and spray with penetrating oil before you start. The 13mm/1/2” bolts are on the engine bay side at the bottom of the clutch housing and will require a spanner holding them in place whilst a socket is used to undo the nuts under the wheel arch. You can’t see the bolts so will have to feel for them. Put the nuts and bolts in your jar.

B2. Passenger side: Same size as the other side. The bolts are underneath the radiator and are very hard to get at. You will need some help for this.¶i) Get someone with skinny arms to hold a spanner on the bolts (access via the back of the radiator) whilst another helper to pull the engine forward.

ii)Whilst this is going on, undo the nuts under the wheel arch. Put your nuts and bolts in your jar.

Note 1. If you can’t find two willing helpers you can get at the mounts a lot easier by removing the radiator. This isn’t necessary to get the engine out as it mounts to the engine mounting which comes out with the engine but will make like easier if you are a Billy-no-mates.

Note 2. If your car has had a recent engine change you might find that it has engine mountings fitted with captive nuts on the engine bay side and bolts going through from the inner wing. These are much easier to remove because you don’t need to hold a spanner in the engine bay.

You are now ready to start lifting the engine out but there are a couple of things you need to do as you lift.

C. Release the pot joints from the differential. ¶Note: this method is not that shown in HBOL but DOES work.

i) roll up your hoist and lift the engine a couple of inches.

ii) get underneath the car and lever the one pot joint off the spline in the diff using a tyre lever or a small crowbar in the gap between the joint and diff housing; or

If you can’t get it using a tyre lever there is a special Rover tool which most mini specialists sell a version of that you can use; or

If you can’t get hold of that, take a scissor-type ball joint splitter and separate into its components. Take the forked part and hammer it into the gap to separate the joint and diff. A forked type ball-joint splitter will also do this job as long as it is one with fairly sharp forks.

iii) Lever the joint completely off the diff whilst pushing the engine away from the joint.

iv) Repeat the process on the other side.

D. Disconnect the speedo drive: located on the end of the engine on the passenger side.¶i) Check that everything (except the speedo drive) is disconnected and that wiring etc. is tucked out of the way so it cannot snag. You can now lift the engine up until you can get at the speedo drive (where the thick black cable connects to the engine). As you lift, either get a helper to make sure that everything is clear, or stop frequently and check yourself. Note, if you left your LCB on the car check that it isn’t hooked up on the diff housing. You may need to pull the engine slightly towards the front of the car as it goes up for

clearance.

ii) Once the drive is accessible, undo the knurled nut holding it to the gearbox. You will probably need to use mole grips for this.

iii) Once it is undone, raise the engine until it is clear of the front panel, keep checking that nothing is snagged or caught.

iv) Once the bottom of the engine is higher the front panel, pull the crane back so that the engine is away from the car. Once clear, slowly lower the engine until it is about 12 inches from the floor. You can then move the engine to where you want it as it will be more stable in this lower position. Slowly lower the engine to the floor (do it fast and you will crack the sump).

Job Done. All you need to do know is fit another engine!!!

Refitting¶As they say in the best workshop manuals, refitting is the reverse of removal. That might be the case when bolting starter motors back on or refitting plug leads, it doesn’t apply quite so well when refitting an engine. These notes will point out some of the pitfalls of putting the engine back in your beloved Mini to, hopefully, make it go that bit more smoothly.

1. The first stage is to attach your rope of chain as described above. If you are working in a garage or anywhere else where headroom might be restricted, put your crane as low as the hook will go and have as little slack in the rope/chain as possible. This will ensure that you have enough room to get sufficient height to clear the front panel without hitting the ceiling.

2. Once the rope/chain is on start lifting the engine, making sure that it goes up level rather than being higher at one end or the other. Once high enough, roll the crane so that the engine is roughly in the right place over the engine bay and lower it until you can reconnect the speedo drive. DON’T FORGET TO DO THIS BEFORE YOU LOWER THE ENGINE INTO PLACE. Access is very difficult with the engine bolted in.

3. Once the speedo drive is connected, you can begin to lower the engine. If you left your LCB in place, make sure that the engine is going down past it rather than on top of it. Keep lowering until the engine is almost in position.

4. You now need to put the driveshafts back into the diff housing. To do this you have to push them onto the splines in the diff past the snaprings which hold them in place. The theory is that you push the shaft towards the diff and pull the engine towards the shaft. Once one side is in you can do the other side. However, I failed miserably.

5. Instead, I followed the Haynes procedure for releasing the balljoint on the passenger side to get one driveshaft out of the way. I then put the other shaft onto the spline and lowered the engine into place. The weight of the engine was enough to push the shaft past the snapring and into place. The other shaft was pushed into place once the engine was fully lowered and the suspension bolted up again.

6. Engine mountings. Once the engine is almost in place, you might find it helpful to push a screwdriver through the mounting bolt hole in the inner wing and through the corresponding hole in the mount itself. Once the holes are aligned you can refit the bolts. The earlier comments about the passenger side mounting apply equally when refitting.

7. Once the engine is physically bolted in you have to refit everything you took off earlier. There is no particular order in which you have to do this but you might find it easier to refit the gear selector and stabiliser before you refit/bolt up the exhaust manifold as you will have more room to work.

8. If you are re-using the old Roll Pin for the gear linkage, Philster recommends that you use a small jubilee clip to cover the holes where the roll pin goes in place. These pins have been known to work their way loose and fall out. Leaving you stranded at the roadside, in the dark at daft o'clock in the morning, miles away from home.

9. Once everything is refitted check that everything is connected up as it should be then you are almost ready to fire up. Before you do, make sure that you have remembered to put some oil in the engine. Cranking it over with the ignition system disabled will allow some oil pressure to build up before you go for launch. Charging the battery is not a bad idea either because if the engine you have put in is freshly rebuilt, it might be quite tight and unwilling to spin on the starter.

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BP6E W20EP-U IW20 VW20

BP6EA W20EX-U IW20 VW20

BP6EA11 W20EX-U11 IW20 VW20

BP6EFS T20EP-U IT20 VT20

BP6EFS-13 T20EP-U15 IT20 VT20

BP6EK W20ETR-L IW20 VW20

BP6EK W20ET-S IW20 VW20

BP6EK-A W20ET-S IW20 VW20

BP6EKN W20ETR-L IW20 VW20

BP6EK-N W20ET-S IW20 VW20

BP6ES W20EP IW20 VW20

BP6ES W20EP-U IW20 VW20

BP6ES W20EX-U IW20 VW20

BP6ES11 W20EP11 IW20 VW20

BP6ES11 W20EP-U11 IW20 VW20

BP6ES11 W20EX-U11 IW20 VW20

BP6ES13 W20EX-U13 IW20 VW20

BP4FS T14PR-U ITF16 -

BP4H W14FP-U - -

BP4HA W14FP-UL - -

BP4HS W14FP-UL - -

BP4HS10 W14FP-UL10 - -

BP4HSA W14FP-UL - -

BP5E W16EP-U IW16 VW16

BP5EA W14EX-U - -

BP5EA11 W14EX-U11 - -

BP5EA-L W16EX-U IW16 VW16

BP5EA-L11 W16EX-U11 IW16 VW16

BP5EFS T16EPR-U IT16 VT16

BP5EFS-13 T16EPR-U15 IT16 VT16

BP5EJ J16AY - -

BP5EK-A W16ET-S IW16 VW16

BP5EKN W16ET-S IW16 VW16

BP5ES W16EX-U/W16EP-U

IW16 VW16

BP5ES11 W16EP11 IW16 VW16

BP5ES11 W16EP-U11 IW16 VW16

BP5ES11 W16EX-U11 IW16 VW16

BP5ES13 W16EX-U13 IW16 VW16

BP5ES-A W16EX-U/W16EP-U

IW16 VW16

BP5ESZ W16EP-U IW16 VW16

BP5ET W16EPB10 IW16 VW16

BP5ET10 W16EPB10 IW16 VW16

BP5EVX,V - IW16 VW16

BP5EVX11 - IW16 VW16

BP5EY W16EX-U IW16 VW16

BP5EY11 W16EX-U11 IW16 VW16

BP5FS T16P-U ITF16 -

BP5HA W16FP-U IWF16 -

BP6ESZ W20EP-U IW20 VW20

BP6ET W20EPB IW20 VW20

BP6EVX,V - IW20 VW20

BP6EVX11 - IW20 VW20

BP6EY W20EX-U IW20 VW20

BP6EY11 W20EX-U11 IW20 VW20

BP6FS T20P-U ITF20 -

BP6HS W20FP-U IWF20 -

BP6HS10 W20FP-U10 IWF20 -

BP6HSA W20FR-L IWF20 -

BP6HVX,V - IWF20 -

BP6S W20P-U - -

BP7E W22EP-U IW22 VW22

BP7EFS T22EP-U IT22 -

BP7EFVX IT22 IT22 -

BP7EK-N W22ETR-L IW22 VW22

BP7ES W22EP-U IW22 VW22

BP7ES11 W22EP11 IW22 VW22

BP7ES11 W22EP-U11 IW22 VW22

BP7ET W22EPB IW22 VW22

BP7EVX,V - IW22 VW22

BP7EVX11 - IW22 VW22

BP7EY W22EP-U IW22 VW22

BP7HS W22FP-U IWF22 -

BP7HS10 W22FP-U10 IWF22 -

BP7HVX,V - IWF22 -

BP8ES W24EP-U IW24 -

BP8EVX,V - IW24 -

BP8H-N10 W24FPR-U10 IWF24 -

BP8HS W24FP-U IWF24 -

BP8HS-10 W24FPR-U10 IWF24 -