Vol. 1/april 23-april 29, 2015

Bali Food SaFari 2015 Bali EmErging WritErS FEStival Warung Pulau KElaPa

pemuteran“remember the north”

2 april 23, 2015

PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA I EDIToRIAl AND GENERAl DEPARTMENTJl. Tukad Musi Vi/17 Kav.1 renon Denpasar Bali (0361) 265 436, 265 437 Fax (0361) 223 698 Jpbali@indosat.net.id, advertisingbali@thejakartapost.com, promotionbali@thejakartapost.com

Warung pulau Kelapa 2015 Bali Emerging Writers Festival04 05

from THE EdiTor

Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat

Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara MahendraGraphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh

General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi

ConTEnTs

Cover photo: Wira Wijoga

Double Six Beach

‘lak-lak’ a lá Men Gabrug

photovoice

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1210

16

06

pak Sudana

Bali Food Safari

pemuteran

Tiny as it is, Bali still has several areas that are relatively untouched by the massive machinery of mass-tourism. Most are located outside the island’s tourist triangle of Badung, Denpasar and Gianyar.

Given the pace of the current expansion in the tourist industry, as it tries to stay relevant by introducing and developing new destinations, it is just a matter of time before these “pristine” regions become besieged by investors.

This edition’s cover story focuses on one of those regions: pemuteran. its stunning underwater beauty is attracting a growing number of divers. its distance from the tourist centers in southern Bali — it takes up to four hours to reach the quiet beachside destination — and its lack of nightlife, entertainment and modern amenities, have so far prevented it from transforming into a new Kuta.

The ways that the local administrations cope with the temptation of tourism will determine whether these regions will meet the same fate that has befallen Kuta, Nusa Dua, Bualu and Canggu.

in a way, these areas offer the Balinese a second chance to learn from their mistakes, which have resulted in uncontrolled development and environmental destruction in southern Bali.

— The Editor

Second chance

3april 23, 2015

Images

one sunny afternoon, three young girls prepared for an important dance performance.

putu Diah anggita, 12, Wayan Winarti, 10, and Made Fibri, 12, were to perform the sang hyang legong topeng, one of Bali’s most sacred dances, at two major temples — pura Giri Jagatnatha and payogan agung, in Ketewel village, Gianyar.

This sacred dance is performed at pura Giri Jagatnatha once a year and at pura payogan agung every six months, during the odalan, or temple anniversary.

So sacred is the dance that only pre-menstrual girls are allowed to perform it.

Based on the Babad Dalem Sukawati and Lontar Raja Purana Tattwa palm leaf manuscripts, the dance was choreographed by i Dewa Made agung anom Karna from the puri Ketewel royal household, who drew inspiration from a dream to compose this sacred, heavenly work.

The magical and spiritual atmosphere the dancers create is thrilling; a breathtaking experience for anyone attending the ritual and watching this nymph dance.

The girls wear glittering cloth woven with gold thread and colorful lamak (front runner

‘Sang Hyang Legong Topeng’

“a hEaVENly DaNCE”

WorDS aND phoToS Agung PArAmeswArA

cloth) with an ampok-ampok waistcloth over a white, long sleeved top. They wear heavy makeup on their young faces and flowers and ornaments on their heads.

prior to the dance, the girls are blessed with holy water and chew two frangipani flowers as part of a purification ritual before wearing a series of sacred masks through the course of the dance.

The masks represent the heavenly nymphs

Sulasih, Nilotama, aminaka, Supraba, Gagarmayang and Tunjung Biru.

Continually changing the masks they wear, the girls dance to the Semar pegulingan gamelan orchestra. The dance had only been going for 15 minutes when the rain started to fall. “it is sign that the entire ritual for the temple celebration is complete and blessed by the gods. The dance is the wrap-up ritual,” said the temple’s priest.

4 april 23, 2015

Ubud village is rapidly becoming one of Bali’s top culinary centers and offers a hugely diverse range of food, from lines of simple,

traditional food stalls to exclusive cafés and restaurants serving indonesian, asian, Middle Eastern and Western food.

amid the bountiful food establishments in the village, Warung pulau Kelapa is one serving authentic indonesian food.

Warung pulau Kelapa, which literarily translates to Coconut island kiosk, is located on Jl. raya Sanggihan in Campuhan.

When visiting last weekend, a number of employees were seen busy picking fresh vegetables, spices and herbs from the restaurant’s organic vegetable garden by the Campuhan river.

a small path connects Warung pulau Kelapa and its garden, allowing customers to pick their favorite vegetables, including choosing from plants rarely found or used in Bali, such as turi flowers, beluntas and kenikir leaves.

in Java, such leaves are served in the dish pecel — mixed steamed vegetables served with a savory, spicy peanut sauce.

The garden is also filled with tropical herbs and spices, such as ginger, coriander, shallots, galangal, turmeric, lemongrass and pandanus.

The availability of fresh produce picked directly from its garden has added interest to Warung pulau Kelapa, which serves meals and drinks from all over indonesia, such as yellow rice, meat soups and satay.

one traditional drink on offer is pletok beer from Betawi (old Jakarta). This delicious concoction consists of ginger, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves.

another special health drink is sinom, which is made of tamarind and brown sugar. “This drink is good for the digestion,” said prayitno, the owner of Warung pulau Kelapa.

prayitno is a cultural and political enthusiast. he also manages Setia Darma house of Masks and puppets in Mas village, near Ubud.

Despite his age, prayitno is an energetic and active motivator for local youth. he frequently invites young activists to taste authentic indonesian food and to discuss cultural and current issues.

“young people must learn their own history and cultural heritage,” he said.

Warung pulau Kelapa and the mask museum are showcases of indonesia’s rich cultural assets. “Warung pulau Kelapa exists to preserve the wealth of traditional indonesian cuisines,” he stated.

Warung Pulau Kelapa “prESErViNG aUThENTiC

iNDoNESiaN CUiSiNE”

WorDS aND phoToS Luh De suriyAni

Savor

5april 23, 2015

The local art scene will be treated this weekend to a fascinating gathering of young talent from a wide spectrum of artistic endeavors as the Bali Emerging

Writers Festival (BEWF) takes place at Danes art Veranda in East Denpasar, april 24-26.

The festival, which is in its fifth year, has the word “writers” in its name, but since its inaugural event in 2011, BEWF has never tried to be a poets-and-novelists affair. This year’s line-up of 20 speakers also features filmmakers, musicians, singers, as well as stand-up comedians.

Eka Kurniawan, an indonesian author whose works have been translated into English, French and italian, Terra Bajraghosa, a mixed-media artist and comic book writer, and Sidi Saleh, whose short movie Maryam won top prize in the 2014 Mostra internazionale d’arte Cinematografica in Venice, are three of several big names confirmed to speak at the festival.

international guest speakers include lou heinrich and omar Sakr, both appearing as part of the thriving collaboration between BEWF and the Melbourne-based Emerging Writers Festival, and award-winning Singaporean author Noor hasnah adam and Singaporean stage performer Deborah Emmanuel.

The festival will feature workshops, panel discussions, movie screenings, concerts and art performances. The full program can be accessed at baliemerging.com.

“BEWF is designed for the younger audience, a fun-filled educational event where they can inspire and be inspired,” Ubud Writers and readers Festival (UWrF) director and BEWF founder Janet DeNeefe said.

a book launch, photography exhibition and musical concert will officially kick off the festival on Friday evening. Titled Di Balik Jeruji (Behind Bars), the book is an anthology of poems and short stories penned by 21 young inmates at the Gianyar juvenile

2015 BaLI EmErgIng WrITErS FESTIvaL“aN aNNUal CElEBraTioN oF proMiSiNG yoUNG TalENT”

WorDS i wAyAn JuniArTA phoToS CourTesy of Bewf

detention facility in amlapura, Karangasem. in cooperation with the Denpasar-based citizen journalism NGo Sloka institute, the festival organized in February a creative writing workshop, featuring Bali’s leading author Cok Sawitri, inside the prison.

The photography exhibition will feature the selected works of four local young photographers, who participated in the documentary photography workshop organized by the festival. internationally acclaimed photographer rio helmi and Bali Buzz’s anggara Mahendra guided the young shooters in developing a visual narrative on marginalized communities.

a musical concert featuring popular indie band pygmy Marmoset and Jakarta-based singer Budi Doremi will top the evening.

Sound

6 april 23, 2015

Soul

The village of Tulamben is one of the main marine tourism destinations in Karangasem, on Bali’s eastern coast, popular for the famous shipwreck of

the US army transport ship liberty. Beautiful coral reefs and the biota inhabiting the shipwreck attract hundreds of tourists on a daily basis.

another popular east Bali area for diving is amed, where visitors can also enjoy the landscape of a series of headlands overlooking bays lined with traditional fishing boats.

Tulamben and amed offer scenic natural beauty both on land and underwater, as well as a tranquil relaxing holiday for ocean lovers.

Both these areas have benefited from work by environmental NGos with local people and

phoToVoiCE“EMpoWEriNG pEoplE ThroUGh phoToGraphy”WorDS Desy nurhAyATi phoToS CourTesy of PhoToVoiCe KArAngAsem

dive operators. however, challenges remain to balance conservation with social life, culture and economic benefits.

The NGos lensa Masyarakat Nusantara, Coral reef alliance, Conservation international and reef Check Foundation have been collaborating with the local government and the community to achieve sustainable management, which has resulted in photovoice. This innovative program provides cameras and photography training for people to document important issues in their lives, like the natural environment, their culture and community strengths and challenges.

By using simple cameras, photographs and stories, people gain a visual voice and a process to communicate indigenous knowledge and

concerns.“The pictures and stories provide people

with a way to reflect on their own lives and to talk about what they want to protect and what they want to make better.”

“adding captions to the photos, they can explain the knowledge and values of local wisdom that can be used as a baseline for development planning and sustaining the natural and cultural environment,” said ayu Saraswati, program coordinator.

This information can then be used by

decision makers for appropriate development and conservation in the area, while the community is directly involved in managing its environment, community system, natural resources, culture and development.

Conducted since 2007, this program has been proven effective in some areas of eastern indonesia.

Tulamben and amed were chosen as the first locations for photovoice in Bali. Starting last Thursday, 11 participants in Tulamben and 18 in amed joined the training.

The participants represent a cross-section of local government institutions, fishermen, tourist operators, salt farmers, masseuses and porters.

The training included how to take photos on land and underwater by professional photographer Kartika Dewi Suardana and a lecture from alit Widusaka of the indonesian arts institute in Denpasar.

Environment-related issues were the most pressing problems revealed.

During the dry season, carelessly discarded trash accumulates on the dry river bed, then when the wet season comes, the trash is washed into the bay — choking coral, killing fish and negatively impacting on tourism.

The expected program outcome will benefit the community, government and all stakeholders, aiding development in general, and in more specific fields, including the management of marine resources in Karangasem.

7april 23, 2015

Double Six Beach “Bali’S liVEliEST BEaCh DESTiNaTioN”WorDS aND phoToS Agung PArAmeswArA

The once quiet and pristine Kuta Beach is no longer as favored as it once was by locals and visitors eager to enjoy a relaxing beach atmosphere with

stunning sunsets. The heavy traffic and crowds on the sand mean it is starting to lose its appeal for many.

however, Bali remains a haven for beach lovers and, just along the road, people still take pleasure in the island’s liveliest beach — Pantai 66, or Double Six Beach.

located at the end of Jl. arjuna, Double Six Beach is adjacent to the island’s most affluent fashion and entertainment hub.

Named after the legendary Double Six club, which no longer exists but has been replaced by a stunning new luxury hotel of the same name, the beach attracts visitors who love its beautiful white sand, the plentiful sun

loungers with accompanying umbrellas, the well-ordered beach sellers offering everything from paintings to carvings and watches, and the extensive range of food and drink options — from food stalls, to beach bags on the beach and luxury restaurants.

There are lifeguards stationed along this stretch of sand and the regular waves make it ideal for those learning to surf, bodyboarding and just playing in the waves — provided you can swim. The broad swathes of sand make it ideal for children to play and adults to walk their dogs or jog.

Double Six Beach is popular throughout the year but is much less crowded out of the peak holiday season. So whether you want to laze on a sun lounger or play in the waves, why not head down to Double Six Beach?

Sight

8 april 23, 2015

Pemuteran “rEMEMBEr ThE NorTh” WorDS aND phoToS wirA wiJogA

Cover Story

9april 23, 2015

Four years ago, when lembeh Strait was first mentioned to me by friends, it was described as one of the best dive areas in the world, the mecca for muck

diving and heaven for an underwater macro-photographer.

it was not until a visit there later that year that i started to understand how the unattractive term of “muck dive” could actually attract so many photographers from all corners of the world.

Within the seemingly plain, lacking in coral, mucky, sandy bottom of this dive site lives a vast and concentrated population of very rare underwater creatures and bottom-dwellers seldom, or never, seen anywhere else in the world. apparently similar traits are shared by other dive sites in other places that host similar creatures.

recently, realizing that a long Easter weekend was coming up, i sat daydreaming of going to some world-class dive site; but with little time to prepare, skyrocketing flight costs and insufficient time to negotiate prices, it did not look like it was going to materialize. Then my thoughts turned to pemuteran in north Bali. Much has been said about this place, and despite living in Bali for over two years, i had been making excuses not to go; so i decided it was time to give it a try, especially knowing that the dive sites in that area have a lot of shared qualities with lembeh.

Driving to pemuteran takes around three-and-a-half to four hours, depending on traffic and the route. a nice surprise was most of the routes have attractive and mesmerizing scenery. The two routes through the midlands will either take you through the popular

Bedugul and lake Beratan area, allowing you to make a stop at the tranquil botanical garden, or through the pupuan rice terraces with their hilly background, allowing you to stop and eat durian on the way.

Staying in pemuteran, besides the have-it-all dive area on your doorstep and snorkeling sites just off the beach, gives you the advantage of being in the center of three main dive areas. Secret Bay, known for its resident frogfish, is 30 minutes’ drive west, while puri Jati, famous for its resident octopuses, including coconut and mimic octopuses, is 30 minutes to the east. Menjangan island, renowned for its serenity, crystal clear water and colorful corals, is a short 10-minute drive away followed by a 30-minute boat-ride from the pier.

We dived at Secret Bay and puri Jati, where the topography is a gentle slope from the beach to around 5 meters depth, and a really wide, flat-bottomed area at between 5 and 8 m depth, depending on the tide. Being shallow dives, with little or no current, these sites are tailor-made for underwater photographers, giving you the possibility of taking a lot of frames in a relatively long dive.

in the two days of diving at both sites, we encountered banggai cardinal fish, fingered dragonets, longspine wasp fish, porcelain crabs, moray eels, blennies, various kinds of scorpion fish, shrimps, crabs and nudibranches. We also

encountered many frogfish,

including the rare hispid frogfish, seahorses, coconut octopuses and the elusive mimic octopus, which fled at the first sight of us.

little is known about this northern diving area, especially compared to the popular dive sites of Tulamben, Nusa penida and Nusa lembongan. as with other tourist attractions in the north, the dive sites are less talked about and probably less promoted due to the long drive from southern attractions and hotels, and because of this they are often missed by residents and tourists alike.

having dived in many renowned dive sites in southeast asia, including two of the most popular muck dive sites in the world,

in lembeh (north Sulawesi) and anilao (the philippines), i can vouch that the northern dive sites really deliver, and i still haven’t got to the popular Menjangan island.

on my drive back to Denpasar, i thought how grateful i was that i lived on the island and had been reminded how good the diving here was, and to find out what the northern part of Bali had to offer.

how to get there:Fly to Ngurah rai international airport in

Bali. pemuteran is four hours away by road. Staying overnight for at least one night is recommended.

The dive spots:Secret bay and puri Jati are shallow dive

sites with acceptable underwater visibility and little or no current. Check with your dive guide to plan the dives for the best conditions on a given day.

10 april 23, 2015

as a major culinary destination, Bali offers plenty of places for a food adventure. you can easily find tours that will take you to restaurants

serving anything from traditional indonesian food, generic Western food and indian food, to Japanese food and even Greek Mediterranean — despite the long distance from southeastern Europe.

While most tours are arranged to suit the customers’ requests, Bali Food Safari offers a unique culinary adventure on the island. Customers need only make a reservation on the Bali Food Safari website and choose which area they want to explore for their dining tour. Mystery Dining Tours are offered to Jimbaran, Seminyak and Ubud.

Choosing Ubud, as i had not explored it as much as Seminyak and Jimbaran, Bali Food Safari set up a tour and i was picked up in an MpV.

as suggested by the tour name, Bali Food Safari founder Simon Ward, my personal guide on this adventure, gave no clue as to which restaurants, cafés or other dining venues would be visited, only saying there would be three or four venues on the tour. he also requested that we not disclose the venue names, to maintain the mystery for future guests!

The first stop, for appetizers, was in the woods of Sayan village, just 10 minutes’ drive from downtown Ubud and one of the best spots in the Ubud area to enjoy sunset.

“We try to make the first stop a beautiful place to enjoy the sunset, whether customers chose Ubud, Jimbaran or Seminyak,” Ward said.

The culinary journey became more and more interesting with each venue and i kept trying to guess which restaurant, café or hotel

bali Food SaFari

“aN aDVENTUroUS MySTEry DiNiNG

ToUr”

WorDS aND phoToS eDnA TArigAn

would be our next stop.This program can start with tapas or

appetizers in the first restaurant and end with dessert in the third or fourth venue. The food choice at each venue is part of the mystery culinary adventure set up by the Bali Food Safari team.

you may have an indonesian appetizer, italian main course, a South american dish for another main course and end with a Japanese-style dessert. and it is very possible that you will visit a five-star restaurant with a famous Michelin-starred chef, a popular bistro, a local

family restaurant where the owner cooks and serves the meals, or a new hidden gem in the area you choose.

The Bali Food Safari team makes sure to only take customers to reputable venues to try and ensure a satisfying Balinese culinary adventure.

“No customer will ever get the same experience at the same venues,” Ward added, saying he collaborated with around 30 restaurants across the island.

To enjoy this tasty tour, book 48 hours in advance on balifoodsafari.com. The price per person starts from a$128 (US$98.80).

Savor

11april 23, 2015

12 april 23, 2015

SightSavorW

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Metis Restaurant, Lounge and Gallery

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When you vacation in Bali, or elsewhere in indonesia, you may want to taste genuine local snacks.

Bali’s pastries and snacks, locally known as jaja Bali, are as rich and varied as its arts and culture, with a vast array of sweet and savory snacks served as ceremonial food, daily snacks and party sweets.

Lak-lak is a favorite among Balinese people. a perfect match to black coffee, lak-lak is popular for breakfast and tea-time.

Made of rice flour and coconut milk, lak-lak is similar to a thick pancake and is usually served with brown sugar caramel mixed with grated coconut.

local women usually cook lak-lak for family breakfasts, while some also sell them in traditional markets.

however, two women in Denpasar are creating a trade brand for this traditional snack.

“Men Gabrug, Fresh from the oven” is

written on a green banner featuring an image of a Balinese woman wearing a frangipani flower in her hair.

The banner and the brand are quite eye-catching for passersby. For local people, branding traditional food is unusual; it is viewed as communal cultural property that no one person can claim as their own.

The branding has also become a source of dispute between two families, each having their own version and claiming to have created the brand.

it started in 2012, at a food stall opened for the Bali arts Festival at the arts Center.

Ni Made Sutrisni said a member of the festival’s organizing committee had created a catchy name for her food stall, “lak lak Men Gabrug, Fresh from the oven”, to attract buyers to the stall. after the festival ended, Sutrisni opened another food stall on Jl. Nusa indah, just outside the arts Center complex.

a year later, Sutrisni changed the wording

‘LaK-LaK’ a lá men GabruG“BraNDiNG TraDiTioNal BaliNESE SNaCKS”

Wo

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ho

ToS

Luh

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to “lak lak Ne Men Gabrug”, saying somebody was already using the Men Gabrug brand.

Then one of her relatives also set up a food stall, this time on Jl. Drupadi in Denpasar, under the name “lak lak Men Gabrug”.

“i never thought of acquiring the intellectual property right to the brand,” Sutrisni said.

While Men Gabrug is probably an imaginary figure, the name has become a hot commodity for lak-lak snack makers, guaranteed to lure customers.

“Everybody can make and sell lak-lak, but each will taste different,” she said.

Sutrisni said lak-lak should be cooked the traditional way, using earthenware Balinese kitchen utensils.

in her open kitchen, customers can watch her cooking lak-lak in a clay pan on a brick stove using a coffee wood fire.

“This is how we should bake lak-lak [with earthenware utensils], otherwise it will taste different,” explained Sutrisni, while serving the

snacks to several customers. Lak-lak is best served hot and fresh from the oven.

“The texture is soft and moist. The coconut milk makes the cake taste so delicious, especially teamed with grated coconut and brown sugar caramel.”

She said the green color was natural and derived from pandanus leaves.

Meanwhile, in the Ne Men Gabrug food stall, the traditional lak-lak has transformed into a trendy cake.

“My customers are mostly young people — students used to modern pastries and Western-style cakes,” she said.

Despite the heated brand dispute, both Men Gabrug and Ne Men Gabrug food stalls have popularized the rural snack lak-lak, making it a favorite urban cake.

13April 23, 2015

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Island BuzzWorld Gourmet Summit awards for Mozaic Dragonfly cocktail to welcome guests

Vasanti Seminyak Resort has innovated something fresh to welcome guests. Dragon fruit is a relatively unusual, delicious and nutritious fruit. Since it tastes wonderful, being sweet and crunchy, Vasanti has combined this freshness into something innovative.The Dragonfly cocktail is now being served to welcome guests staying at Vasanti Seminyak Resort. Upon check in, guests receive a welcome drink voucher to exchange at ABOVE Kitchen, Lounge and Bar, where they can enjoy the cocktail while watching the sun set over the beautiful Batu Belig beach. The Dragonfly is a blend of dragon fruit with vodka, Bacardi and a splash of soda to bring the freshness of the cocktail up a notch. Vasanti also serves fresh orange, guava and mango juices for those who prefer them. ABOVE Kitchen, Lounge and Bar, perched atop Vasanti Seminyak Resort, boasts an excellent view over Seminyak and the Batu Belig shore. The art-deco interior creates a serene and engaging ambience ideal for chilling with friends after an activity-packed day.The Dragonfly cocktail is also available in the bar for just Rp 50,000 (US$3.86).

Chris Salans and Mozaic Gastronomique have scooped two prestigious culinary awards at the World Gourmet Summit.Salans was awarded the prestigious Manitowoc Restaurateur of the Year (regional), beating off competition from Will Meyrick of Sarong (Bali), Aaron Landau of Jimmy’s Kitchen (Singapore) and Yoshihiro Narisawa of Narisawa (Tokyo). The award recognizes restaurant owners committed to developing social initiatives in the culinary field and promoting culinary and service excellence.Meanwhile, Salans’ restaurant, Mozaic, overcame fierce competition from Lung King Heen (Hong Kong), Nahm in Bangkok, Sarong in Bali and Yardbird in Hong Kong to be awarded the Martell Asian Restaurant of the Year (regional).This award recognizes restaurants serving Asian cuisine that have consistently exceeded standards of excellence and provide an extraordinary dining experience for guests.Held annually in Singapore since 1997, the World Gourmet Summit Annual Awards of Excellence honor outstanding achievement in the food and beverage industry and have risen to become one of the most prestigious awards ceremonies in Asia.

14 April 23, 2015

Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com

Events

Calendar of EventsAnzac Day at The Club April 25Starts 9 a.m.To celebrate 100 years of Anzac, bring the kids along to enjoy the day!Contact info@cangguclub.com for more information.Canggu ClubJl. Canggu Club, Canggu: (0361) 8483939

Earth Day Bali Bash April 23Starts 7 p.m.Celebration to support the environment. Tickets Rp 150,000 pre-event, Rp 200,000 at the venue.rolefoundation.org Echo Beach HouseCanggu

Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and SaturdayFrom 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m.Mannekepis Jazz and Blues BistroJl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta: (0361) 8475784

Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, SundayLive MusicEvery Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, SaturdaySalsa DanceEvery SundayMade’s WarungJl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta: (0361) 755297

Not Your Wonderland April 24Starts 6 p.m.To raise awareness and efforts to protect Indonesian children from pedophiles, join a masquerade ball themed Alice in Wonderland! The StonesJl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta

Speak UpApril 24Starts 8 p.m.See and hear what is happening to the Indonesian Dayak community. Film screening featuring Navicula. For 18+ only.Antida Sound GardenJl. Waribang No. 32, Kesiman

Sunset Beach Bar & GrillEvery SaturdayChill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality.Intercontinental Bali ResortJl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran: (0361) 701888

Toni Childs April 25Starts 7 p.m.An Emmy award winner and environmental activist with fans in 50 countries performs this weekend. BetelNutJl. Raya Ubud, Ubud

Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1. Meads Boutique Villas HotelJl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa: (0361) 776604

Food & Drinks

jImbaRan Di Mare Karma Kandara Resort, Jimbaran: (0361) 8482200

KutaHakata Ikkousha Renowned Hakata Ikkousha finally open in Bali.Jl. Sunset Road No.225X, Kuta

Johnny RocketsBeachwalk, Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta: (0361) 8465008

nuSa DuaGyu-Kaku The Bay, Nusa Dua

SanuRWarung Mak Beng Traditional Balinese fish dishes. Jl. Hang Tuah No. 45, Sanur

SEmInyaKSmokehose BBQ Jl. Petitenget No. 14, Seminyak: 0878 623 51052

ubuDThe Three MonkeysJl. Monkey Forest, Ubud: (0361) 975554

Activities

Courses

Dance Lessons Dance for life. Jl. TangkubanPerahu No. 100x: (0361) 7452045

Gamelan Course – Mekar BhuanaLearn more about Balinese culture and music.Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar: (0361) 464 201

Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures.Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud: (0361) 7451413 or 976220

Silversmithing Classes – Studio Perak Recommended by Lonely Planet. A relaxing place to explore your creativity and make that piece of silver jewelry you’ve been dreaming about! Jl. Hanoman, Ubud: (0361) 974244info@studioperak.com

Cycling

Bali Eco Cycling Eco-friendly, environmentally friendly, culturally friendly and indigenous-friendly tourism.Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan Ubud: (0361) 975557

Diving

Blue Season BaliIndonesia’s premier PADI five-star career development center.Contact us for info and bookings:Jl. Danau Poso, Gang Wanasari No. 3B, Sanur: (0361) 270852Email: diving@blueseasonbali.comwww.blueseasonbali.com

Rafting

Sobek Bali Largest transport network in Bali. Comfortable, air-conditioned vehicles linked by radio to monitor client journeys. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 257, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar: (0361) 729016

SpaBodyworksJl. Kayu Jati No.2, Petitenget: (0361) 733317

Fivelements Puri Ahimsa Banjar Baturning, Mambal: (0361) 469206

YogaBikram YogaIstana Kuta Galleria Blok VL No. 12Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta: (0361) 769040

Manik Organik YogaJl. Danau Tamblingan No. 85, Sanur: (0361) 8553380

TrekkingBali Trekking TourExplore Bali with experienced guides and savor unforgettable moments.: 0878 618 63656www.balitrekkingtour.com

Shopping

Perum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A.11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, KutaJl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud

Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran - Phone (0361) 81470919Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan - : (0361) 705454Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu - : (0361) 7472303Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran: (0361) 81470919Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran: (0361) 4729081

Papaya Fresh GalleryJl. Mertanadi, Kuta

ART & CULTURE CORNER

DEnpaSaRBarong & Keris DanceEverydayStarts 9 a.m.Jl. Waribang No. 11 Kesiman, Denpasar: (0361) 224596

jImbaRanKecak & Fire DanceEverydayStarts 6 p.m.Uluwatu TempleJimbaran, Badung: (0361) 9041163

KutaTraditional & Modern PerformancesEvery day (Except Wednesday)Starts 8 p.m.Kuta TheaterJl. Kartika Plaza No. 8X, Kuta: (0361) 762750

ubuDCalonarang Dance Every Thursday, SundayStarts 7:30 p.m.Mawang village, Ubud

Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan)Every FridayStarts 7 p.m.Bentuyung Village, Ubud

Legong Dance Every FridayStarts 7:30 p.m.Balerung Srinertya Waditra (Balerung Mandera)Br. Teruna, Peliatan, Ubud: (0361) 972124 or 970503

Ramayana DanceEvery TuesdayStarts 7:30 p.m.Puri Ubud, Jl. Raya Ubud

Wayang KulitEvery SaturdayStarts 8 p.m.Oka KartiniJl. Raya Ubud

tEmplESBesakih TempleBesakih Temple, Bali’s Mother Temple, is perched 1,000 meters high on the southwestern slope of Mount Agung.

Goa LawahGoa Lawah, also known as the Bat Cave Temple, is located on the main road between Denpasar and Candidasa in Pesinggahan village, Klungkung.

Pulaki TempleLocated in Pulaki village, Seririt, Singaraja regency, in north Bali. Just three hours’ drive from Bali’s airport or a one-hour drive from Singaraja.

Uluwatu TemplePura Uluwatu, one of six key temples believed to be Bali’s spiritual pillars, is renowned for its magnificent location on the top of a steep cliff approximately 70 meters above sea level, as well as its macaque population.Located at Uluwatu, Pecatu, Jimbaran

W presents April 23

Nick Warren (Way Out West/UK)From 10 p.m. – 4 a.m.

Woobar at W Retreat BaliJl. Petitenget, Seminyak

: (0361) 473810

15April 23, 2015

Gilimanuk

Tanah LotKerobokan

CangguSeminyak

LegianKuta

Jimbaran

Nusa Dua

Benoa

Sanur

Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport

Penida Island

LOVINA

SINGARAJA

BANGLIAMLAPURA

KLUNGKUNG

GIANYAR

DENPASAR

TABANAN

NEGARA

Menjangan Island

Mt. Musi

Besakih

Mt. Sangiang

Pulaki

West BaliNational Park

Sangeh

Pura LuhurUluwatu

Pura Rambut Siwi

Mt. Batur

Pura Batu Madan

Mt. Agung

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4

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Ubud

Where to go

MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery BaliFrench Mediterranean dining in a heavenly setting, an uber-chic lounge serving scrumptious tapas and cocktails, complemented by top-notch entertainment.

Jl. Petitenget no.6, Kerobokan: (0361) 4737 888

E-mail: info@metisbali.commetisbali.com 1

2

4

STP 8th Job FairApril 23–24From 9 a.m.–5 p.m.Aula Joop Ave, STP Nusa Dua

: 0812 393 22080

3Bali: The Island of ColorsUntil May 10 Oil painting exhibition by Gorns Buchmann. Open daily to the public and providing a beautiful addition to the outstanding resort.Melia Bali, Nusa Dua

Calonarang DanceEvery Thursday, SundayStarts 7:30 p.m.Mawang village, Ubud

16 April 23, 2015

On my early morning photo excursions in the countryside around central Bali, there are a number of favorite warung (snack

and coffee stalls) marked on my mental map. Some are great for a savory bubur (spicy rice porridge), others for a variety of sweeter fare. It’s not just the quality of the food that earns a star on my routes; the owner’s personality is a big part of it.

One such place is Pak Sudana’s funky little hole in the wall at the Pujung market. It has an added bonus: it’s nearly always open no matter how early in the morning. Pak Sudana and his wife are up at 4 a.m. on most days prepping their scrumptious fried bananas, clay-baked lak-lak and, on market days, black rice pudding. And they make real, honest to goodness kick-ass Bali coffee, grinds and all. On market days, they get up at 2 a.m. That’s every third day.

This couple has worked for every little thing they have got. Pak Sudana is a bit of a man of the world, straining out sly, homespun wisdom along with the bubbling oil he drains off the golden banana fritters.

In between customers buying plastic bags of hot sweets (out of politeness, I don’t discuss the effect of plastic on hot food, besides I’m not a Green School mom), we chat about the old days, about the changes in Balinese attitudes over the last four decades, about the younger generation.

Although he deplores the fact that so much rice field has been sold to foreigners, he himself is trying to sell a 15 acre plot up near Taro. I try as delicately as possible to suggest it seems a little contradictory. He shrugs and says: “But what do I have to give my son for a good start in life?” I suggest maybe his son could work as hard as he does. He smiles wryly:

Pak Sudana“THE REALITY IS THAT THE COST Of LIVING fOR A BASIC STANDARD

Of COMfORT HAS GONE UP ExPONENTIALLY”WORDS AND PHOTOS Rio HelMi

“Things are different now. Money has become a dewa — everyone deifies it.” The conversation turns to what people do with their money when they sell land. “Ah usually they get a flash car and stuff, then run out of cash. Gayanya kota, otaknya desa [‘city’ style with ‘village’ brains],” he snorts.

The reality is that the cost of living for a basic standard of comfort has gone up exponentially since the Eat Pray Love-fueled land grab around

Ubud. Yet for around Rp 5,000 (39 US cents) you could eat yourself silly here and have coffee to boot. At this rate, I can’t figure the math out that would see Pak Sudana and his wife retiring anytime soon.

“So maybe things will get better now that we have a new president? Did you watch the PDI-P congress on TV? What do you think of Ibu Megawati,” I venture, slyly hoping to draw him out. “Oh, I have no time for that. But I’ll watch

Sule [a popular Indonesian comedian] anytime, he also talks ‘east-west’ [kangin-kauh, a Balinese expression for senseless talk], but at least it’s funny.”

I find I have no comeback for this. Slurping the rest of my coffee according to local etiquette, I think to myself maybe I should watch Sule too. Now if only Pak Sudana had Wi-fi in his warung...

the view from down here